Glen-L.com

My grandfather built a Sea KNight like mine (without a cabin) adn pushed it with a 1961 Evinrude 75 hp. He said it did a good job. I would think anything from a 50 up to a 115 would be the best range for a sea knight. Good decision on buying the full size patterns...they are well worth the cost as far as ease of making frames and gussets.

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Built the 17' Glen-L "Sea Knight"

Thank you Darth for the reply and I look forward to seeing more of your Boat. So you will be just adding a windshield and setting it up more like a runabout? I noticed your in Georgia, I have a new Daughter in law from there as well I think Griffin? south of Atlanta. She and my Son are both serving in the Navy both on different ships on the east coast. Thanks again

Craig

Well I can say that's a whole lotta outboard. You should be able to load her to the rub rails and still get on step I can with my 20' skiff with a 115 Johnson, done it. She'll struggle a bit, but once she hits that breakin point, hold on. hehehe

That's a fine look'n skiff ya got there!

Started making frame parts Saturday and made a visit to one of the local shops at Harbor Marine in Everett, Wa. bought a few pounds of nails and screws and had a little sticker shock but the good news was the store clerk also owned a Sea Knight that his Grandfather built back in the 60's and he was a pleasure to talk with and had all kinds of praises for the Sea Knight and Glen-l. He said he will send me some pictures via email. So now I also have a local resource for feedback etc.

Craig

THATS AWESOME! What are the chances that you would come acrossed another Sea Knight owner! Make sure you post pics of your build and his sea knight when he sends them!

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Built the 17' Glen-L "Sea Knight"

Hello Darth, I was wondering if you fibreglassed your Hull? I will be using Maranti Marine Ply and am considering just applying primer and paint. What are your thoughts on that. Allthought I have a ways to go yet before that step of the process.

Craig

I definitly fiberglassed my hull. Its worth the investment i think. It helps with abarasion resistence and makes the hull more durible. Per the plans, you are safe to prime and paint just the plywood, but there are a few extra precausions you should take. For instance, there is a stem cap that goes over the stem that is recommended if you are NOT going to fiberglass, that I omitted since i fiberglassed.

I used Meranti Hydrotek plywood. It looks great and it is very durable.

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Built the 17' Glen-L "Sea Knight"

Darth I have 4 sheets of 12mm 1088 meranti plywood and I would like to find a use for it with the Sea Knight. My only concern is the added weight, but I was thinking of using some of it for Gussets on the frames which I have most of the parts cut out of Doug Fir ready and maybe the Stem which I could make 3 laminations to obtain the inch and half thickness required. Otherwise this plywood which I have had for a couple of years will just sit indefinatly. I guess the weight is the only real issue on my mind.

Craig

I am wondering if it is Ok to use one type wood (fir) on a frame and a different wood (mahogany) on another. They are both woods recommended in the plans and I started making parts in VG Fir but found that I can save money if I buy Mahogany. Any thoughts?

Craig

I don't see a problem with that

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

I've tried to keep the 'mix' of wood to a minimum, however I don't see an issue if everything is balanced out. I've use douglas fir plywood as a filler in my transom (between marine mahogany sheets), and for upholstered seat backs and bottoms.

I guess the only 'caution' (if you can call it that) is to ensure you do dont forget to do any wood-specific surface prep suggested when using adhesives like epoxy.

Sapelle is the Mahagony I used and its a great working & looking wood.

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

Thanks for the feedback. I also purchased 6 sheets of marine grade viola plywood today at 40.00 per sheet it was less expensive than the some other local a/b fir marine and is very nice looking ply.

Craig

Craig, don't know what kind of motor(s) you plan to put on your Sea Knight but if your going with a single motor the motor well dimensions in the Sea Knight plans are pretty narrow when you get to the stage of rigging and installing the motor. I built the attached Google SketchUp model when I was thinking about building the Sea Knight and layed out a 34" wide motor well after getting the rigging drawing of the motor I intended to use. Just giving you a heads up. Some other neat things when you get to that stage the stub in / removable cabin table would be a nice feature as well as making the cabin seats so they fit in the cockpit area too maybe with some flush clamp cleats. And based upon an excellent idea Oyster gave me you may consider 17" seats on either side of the motorwell, don't have to put people in all those places it just gives you flexibility. Enjoy your build the only reason I am not building my Sea Knight is I like my current boat to much and don't have room for another boat.

Thank you Deltadawg, I like the drawing you posted, gives me some ideas etc. I'm not sure what engine I'll end up with but would like a 4 stroke 60-80hp I think at this point. I will be putting the transom together soon but will leave the cutout alone for now. I also plan to go 18.5' on the length with no beam changes. I,m kind of a big guy at 240lbs so I know that there will be a fair amout of aft weight and I do not have any small craft experience or outboard experience. I should have my frames completed in a few weeks. What was your performace goal with a 50hp motor? what about fuel capacity and location on the boat? and if you do not mind your helm is on the starboard side, does it make a difference which side? Thanks for your opinion and time.

Craig

Craig, I graduated from the UW in Mech Engr that is where the Dawg comes from, I am a Husky, I worked in your town Everett at Payne Field on design of the 767 in 1978.

Anyway when you cut that motor board to glue up the transom at this stage the plans call for a 26" width but I would go with 34"; 26" is to tight. Ideally I would go to the Yamaha dealer and ask to see the rigging drawing for the horsepower you indend to install and shoot a picture of it with your high res phone/digital camera so you can take it home and noodle it over. You want clearance hard over left and right plus plenty of room with the motor tilted up an it would be nice to put the 10 micron fuel filter in the motor well and you want to clear it when you tilt all the way up.

I was expecting 50hp to push it to 32mph, 90hp top at 41mph, 115hp top at 46mph but that 115hp 4 stroke Yamaha is 402# and $9500; I wouldn't put that much weight on the transom; I think less weight on the transom makes for better handling.

I was going to follow the plans and put a 6 gal fuel tank under the left transom seat.

I like a starboard helm because I favor approaching the dock with it on my right, I am right handed and I can grab a dock cleat then easily. I like the throttle/shifter on my right to and it is nice too keep the cable bundle comming out of it running along the structure back to the motor.

I really encourage you to make that motor board plywood cutout 34" wide at this point unless you make it even wider because you want a bigger motor and you checked the rigging clearance drawing.