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PostPosted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:31 pm 
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Thanks for the update Neel. Excellent as usual.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:06 pm 
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Location: Collegeville, Pa
I really get excited when a plan comes together..... Engine hatch hinge methods have been on my mind since the beginning of this project. I want to keep the deck as clean as possible as Dave Lott has, but that creates a problem with hinging the hatch as the hinge must not only swing, but it must also lift. I found a pair of hood hinges off of a 1982 Chevy Suburban for about $50 on Ebay. They are double jointed so they do just what I need them to do. They also have a pretty massive spring to assist in lifting the hood as well as keeping it up without the help of gas lifters. They also make closing the hood a gentle process. Today, I installed these hinges and am so happy with the end result that I couldn't resist posting some pics. The way they were installed allows 1/8" clearance on all four sides of the hatch and the front and/or the back part of the hatch frame does not have to be raked to allow opening and closing. The springs are not installed in the pictures which is why the hatch is held up with a support. For those of you staying awake at night thinking about hinges, give this idea some thought...It works....Take Care,,,,,,,Neel


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:09 pm 
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Location: Owasso, Oklahoma
Great solution to a common problem Neel! I like it! 8)

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:10 pm 
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I don't know how to post more than three pictures at a time, so here are two more. One shows the engine hatch fully closed, and the other shows a mock up of the dashboard layout. Any and all coments, whether positive or negative are welcomed....Take Care,,,,,Neel


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 1:52 pm 
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I can just see you sitting on a bucket holding a wheel in you hands making engine noises :!: :lol: :)

Bill

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:21 pm 
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Location: Collegeville, Pa
Bill..... Have you been peeking through my garage windows?


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 2:53 pm 
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Location: Co.Dublin, Ireland.
Thats looks great and yep it has been on my mind a lot on how it could be done, now I can sleep :D
PS. is there an average opening size for a V8 or did you just work it out yourself if so what size did you end up with.
Thanks.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 3:27 pm 
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Location: Collegeville, Pa
Hi Fergal,

My hatch opening is 43" front to back and 36" wide. The plans call for a much larger opening, but I have had the engine in and out four or five times. The last two times, I laid pieces of wood over the opening I wanted and adjusted them as we lowered the engine down to the stringers. The opening I have now will allow some (not alot) of room on each side of the risers and clear the opening in the front and rear by a couple inches. I didn't want a huge hatch, so this is about the minimum I would recommend. The engine is an Indmar 350 Cu.In. V8 and the transmission is a Hurth 1:1. I don't think it would go in if it were level, but a slight tilt toward the transmission does the trick. Sleep tight!!!! Neel


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:10 pm 
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Location: Colborne ON Can
Very nice solution Neel!

Doug


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:30 pm 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia. Building Gentry.
Looking great Neel. Great idea on the hinges. I still want Gull wing hatches on mine, but not sure if the engine height will proclude the necessary strongback/beam down the middle. It sucks being back at work having a flipped boat that is begging for work.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:09 pm 
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Hi Glenn,

I wanted to keep the engine cowl area as low as possible. There is about 1/2" clearance from the top of the flame arestor to the plywood on the engine hatch. Also, the engine logs are very low on the stringers. The Gentry is not very tall !!! I think the gullwing will make that engine cowl awfully high. Maybe you could have a some sort of a stationary section in the middle, the width of your flame arrestor and have the wings hinged to that section. This would take some thought, but I bet you can figure it out. Good luck, she looks great.....Neel


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:36 am 
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neel thompson wrote:
Hi Glenn,

I wanted to keep the engine cowl area as low as possible. There is about 1/2" clearance from the top of the flame arestor to the plywood on the engine hatch. Also, the engine logs are very low on the stringers. The Gentry is not very tall !!! I think the gullwing will make that engine cowl awfully high. Maybe you could have a some sort of a stationary section in the middle, the width of your flame arrestor and have the wings hinged to that section. This would take some thought, but I bet you can figure it out. Good luck, she looks great.....Neel


I like that idea, and it would give better engine access when doing maintenance than hatches hinged on either side.

I bet you could have the center section bolted in so it would be removable when you need to remove the engine

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 06, 2012 2:27 pm 
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Location: minnesota
upspirate wrote:
neel thompson wrote:
Hi Glenn,

I bet you could have the center section bolted in so it would be removable when you need to remove the engine



Just like the old Model A Ford!


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:42 am 
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Location: Sunshine Coast, Queensland, Australia. Building Gentry.
Removable center was what I had in mind, but Neel scuttled it with the flame arrestor being too high. Maybe a beam with a widened section around the arrestor. I guess when I fit the engine I will know what can be done. Just like a Model T Ford indeed.. :)
Anyohw, this is not my thread and Neel has a fantastic solution for the standard hatch hinges, which is great. If I end up going that way then I will follow suit.

Thanks Neel.

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:41 pm 
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I was thinking a center section the width of the flame arrestor with fore & aft braces just outside the arrestor,with hinges on the edge of that section.

say the arrestor is 6" + 3/4" brace on each side, the center would be 8" or so, bolting in at the front and rear.

Then the hinges would bolt on either side of that.

The center & king planks could be planked 8" with the narrow planks next to them.

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