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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 7:17 am 
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I just chose the hard way, like my head. Two thinner pieces would work. Or, you could score the inside of the bend then "cover plate" the inside. :wink:

Several ways to skin that cat.

Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:45 am 
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Bill Edmundson wrote:
I just chose the hard way, like my head. Two thinner pieces would work. Or, you could score the inside of the bend then "cover plate" the inside. :wink:

Several ways toskin that cat.

Bill



Whatever way works for you. It is the end result not the means that matters.

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:04 pm 
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Well... I have been working.

Bill

And! That is what the shop floor usually looks like :!: :lol:


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:06 pm 
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This took a couple of cans of Courage!

Bill


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:26 pm 
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Does seem like quite a waste of time and materials to assemble then cut out,but it keeps everything aligned that way.

Maybe you can build a table or something with the cut out!!

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 1:32 pm 
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I faired (rough) the bottom before the cut. That way the bottom is true to the rest of the hull. I was afraid that with the 43" hole, I could not be sure about hook or rocker. I'm doing some framing before I cut the deck beams.

Bill

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 5:10 pm 
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Looking Great, Bill. Almost as much lumber in the fixture as the framing. Wow!!! Very impressive.

Roberta :D :D

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Built Zip "Oliver IV" and Super Spartan "Jimmy 70"


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 6:21 pm 
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Only 2 cans?????

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 6:25 pm 
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Roberta

With a 17" frame spacing it is a pain to get inside right now. I'm trying to get as much done before I plank it as I can. I'm 57 and 170#, and I still don't fit! I left out some of the frame Too.

Bill

Dave

I still had 2 cans in me from last night. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 8:02 pm 
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Bill Edmundson wrote:
I'm 57 and 170#, and I still don't fit!


Wow !! Bill....we could be twins...(well, about three years and 60lbs ago!)
:roll: :wink:

STeve

Now you are going to have to bring two tow vehicles to the gatherings!
Like you are gonna trust Lola with either one of those!


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 18, 2011 9:38 pm 
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Bill ( the man with the nerves of steel ),

I couldn't imagine making that cut. :shock: Looking good. :D I know that the cutout is for your motor well. I only bring that up for people that are just tuning in and to let you know I'm not sleeping in class. :roll: :wink: :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 4:07 am 
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Bill, which end of the boat is that? Is that the front end or the back end, both end seem to look the same :?: :lol:
Was the C&C sitting at the wrong end at that time?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 4:15 am 
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Quote:
I only bring that up for people that are just tuning in and to let you know I'm not sleeping in class.

Right, we all know why you are paying attention to the threads in the forum. We are talking about wimmin here. :wink:

Quote:
She is coming along, She is really pretty, She is costing me more than I expected, She is ending up to be heavier than what I thought she would be when we started.

Of course we also know that these projects gets wrinkles too over time. :wink:

:P :P :lol: 8)

Actually the best money spent is to build full and then cut ti fit, even down the road. This will give you a fair bottom and heaven forbid if your plans change in regards to engines too, you cut to fit accordingly. But Bill it would be a good idea if you actually go ahead and run the bottom panels all the way across the hole. This gives you the option to also install well plates around the leg and can walk you through this in due course too, if you wish. Fo you recall what we did to Dragon FLy? You cannot believe the difference in the performance either from the standard rectangle and open hole.

When doing the plates in the construction phase, I first glue up a filler into the well framing and then depending on the deadrise I then install pieces on top and then shape to fit before I glue the bottom panels in place. You can always adjust the scallop for the hard over to hardover turns and then glass the faces of the seams.


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 5:49 am 
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Ken

Sometimes I have to stop working when I can't remember if I'm coming or going!

Mike

Thanks for the picture. It gives me a nice visual. I'll be filling as much of that hole as I can with motor down. The Bartender uses a fold down "plug" behind the engine to maximize the planning surface.

Bill

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 6:03 am 
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Understand Bill......Areas of the well in the the leading edges of the motor leg gives you nothing more than additional loss of planing surfaces. When I did the 12 footer I wanted as much planing area that I could get to add back to these dory bottoms and learned that these additions made a big difference in the overall performance and dried the hull a bit more inside along with the splash guards along the top.

The large opening even with the backend closed up allows water to spray up in certain turns and certain water conditions. Splash guard around the lip inside does minimize some of this. But with the Bartender wells being foward of the transom, this issue is highlighted.
There are several videos on line that shows the motor well spray that floods the boat in the wrong turns too. At around 53 to 54 seconds look closely at the high spray inside. This is the best one that I can find right now.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32C7dPr5 ... re=related


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