Deck Hardware mounting screws

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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jeffh
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Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:44 pm

I have both 3/4 and 1" stainless screws. What is the recommendation for things like cleats and cams? I'm leaning toward 1". For my bow light, I could probably use shorter if they get enough bite.
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vupilot
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by vupilot » Wed Mar 30, 2011 2:58 pm

I would bolt your cleats all the way throught the deck with oversize washers and nuts on the underside. Hopefully you have access to all those areas underneath.
Dont forget the marine sealant in the holes to keep water out of the grain inside of the freshly drilled holes.

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jeffh
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:13 pm

I forgot to mention, there are sheer clamps and deck beams under the cams and the one large teardrop cleat that mounts in the center. I also have four small teardrop fender hangers that will screw into the sheer clamps.

So you guys are actually using bolts? I have a tube of 3M 5200 for anything that goes through the hull or deck like transom eyes and thru-hull fittings for bilge pumps.
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Bob Perkins
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by Bob Perkins » Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:47 pm

I just used screws for the cleats, probably 1 1/2 inch. no need for bigger.

I would recommend NEVER using 3M5200 on anything. It will NEVER come apart. You may want to remove those through hull fittings someday for some reason and you will have to destroy everything to get it apart. Just use a poly-sulfide sealant like Sikkaflex or something. You will have a chance at getting whatever you put together apart in the future.

Also - for some reason -5200 gets everywhere when you are working with it.. Maybe it is me. The other stuff cleans up pretty easy with alcohol.

The only time I use 5200 is to put together dissimilar materials that I do not want to come apart. I also used it to fix a cracked radiator shroud on the car once. Don't use it on your boat though...
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Mar 30, 2011 3:54 pm

Bob

Don't feel bad about 5200. I have the same problem. I onlyuse the stuff if I really mean to never go there again.

4200 is better for most appications.

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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Wed Mar 30, 2011 4:03 pm

OK, so I won't use the 5200. Maybe I can exchange it for something else. I bought it at West about a month ago.
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by raymacke » Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:35 pm

A couple years ago I was at a dock furnished by a nearby restaurant. There were four other boats hanging on the dock unattended as I pulled up in my Cabin Skiff. Right beside the dock was a city ramp. Some mentally challenged performance boat owner (about 28') launched and proceed to drop the throttle on the two V8s right beside the dock. He dug a huge hole in the water and sent a monster wake at the boats. I honestly thought the Skiff was going to end up ON the dock! Even though I was standing there trying to hold it of the side I still sustained some minor damage. But I was the lucky one. All four of the other boats were more seriously damaged and two had cleats tore completely off. Had I not been there they would have drifted down the Illinois river. The cleats were bolted on the fiberglass boats but there were no backing plates. The nuts and washers pulled right through the glass making nasty holes.

For me this confirmed cleats need to be bolted through with backing plates. I know screws are strong but for me not strong enough.

And I agree with Bill. I use a lot of 4200 but hardly any 5200. Can't think of hardly anything I use sealant on that at some point I may well want to remove. I consider 5200 an adhesive and 4200 a sealant.
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by Oyster » Wed Mar 30, 2011 6:58 pm

On clear finish wooden boats and especially decks, I only use PL Roofing, Flashing sealant which is black. Its great and against hardware its easy to remove even though its an adhesive. I literally hate the look of any white caulk anywhere near varnish wood. If you varnish everything even under the hardware and then apply, the stuff will almost roll off with your fingers after its cured. It will cure in a day with no problems unless its below freezing and I let the caulk bead up around the hardware and cure and then go back and take a fine point razor knife and gently score the bead. I have in many cases just peeled the bead off too. But with that said, I also install all the hardware with throughbolts for sure with backing blocks and when its all possible I fabricate small blocks to mount the hardware on which raises it up above the deck.
I also use starboard backing blocks too these days. No worries about painting or cracking when cinching down for the smaller pieces thats required in small places.
This helps when you need to refinish and when you want to remove it too. You rarely will ever scare the good woods.

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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:36 pm

OK, sounds like I need bolts and backing plates or washers. Anybody have a suggestion where I may find bolts that size in stainless? I believe the screws I have are #8. The bolts also have to look good, so no hex head bolts.
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by raymacke » Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:50 pm

Hamilton Marine has a decent selection - http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... 2,922.html
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Wed Mar 30, 2011 9:26 pm

Thanks for that link! I knew a bolt was not what I needed...machine screws is what I want. I should have known that.
raymacke wrote:Hamilton Marine has a decent selection - http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse. ... 2,922.html
2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD
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I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning :)
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Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by harpoonhedd » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:00 am

I have found anytime you add the word marine to anything is is almost double$$$...McMaster/Carr is a good source for anything machine oriented...and they ship quickly saving gas...West mxxxxx is only a final resort...unless you have a commercial account...( or have a friend that has one...shhh)

as said...all cleats , chocks or bow eyes should be mounted strong enough to carry the weight of the boat for a sustained period. Mooring or docking a boat can put a lot more stress on a cleat than you could imagine, let alone a situation like the one mentioned. Thru bolts with a strong backer block is a must...I have seen boats that needed to be towed that had inferior mounts break off...and create a whole different problem( and usually create a lot of other repairs too)...bow eyes,chocks and cleats are your lifeline for sure...
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by Oyster » Thu Mar 31, 2011 5:12 am

You can always get hardware from our sponsors.

https://www.boatdesigns.com/Stainless-S ... ments/687/

But if you need a handfull of different sizes, see if these folks are still around. I used to purchase my silicon bronze hardware from them years ago. I could one or ten or even a box. They are or were a family run operation and you may need to leave a message and they will get back to you. They do boat repair and could also be out.
I hope they are still around, great to deal with..!

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jeffh
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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by jeffh » Thu Mar 31, 2011 7:07 am

Man, you are so right about that and at West Marine, it's double plus 20% :shock: I completely forgot about McMaster Carr. I have purchased lots of stainless from them for the small brewery I have in my garage :wink:
harpoonhedd wrote:I have found anytime you add the word marine to anything is is almost double$$$...McMaster/Carr is a good source for anything machine oriented...and they ship quickly saving gas...West mxxxxx is only a final resort...unless you have a commercial account...( or have a friend that has one...shhh)

as said...all cleats , chocks or bow eyes should be mounted strong enough to carry the weight of the boat for a sustained period. Mooring or docking a boat can put a lot more stress on a cleat than you could imagine, let alone a situation like the one mentioned. Thru bolts with a strong backer block is a must...I have seen boats that needed to be towed that had inferior mounts break off...and create a whole different problem( and usually create a lot of other repairs too)...bow eyes,chocks and cleats are your lifeline for sure...
2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD
Image
I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning :)
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

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Re: Deck Hardware mounting screws

Post by red » Thu Mar 31, 2011 6:25 pm

Oyster just talked to jenny they are still open and youre right they are very nice to deal with

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