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I left my transom bottom 3/8" long and faired it at the same time as I faired my keel/chine/sheers. Angle Grinder + Sanding Disk to get it close then a planer to finish it off.

On my transom lumber sides I accidentally pre-cut them straight, but managed to fair them out and it does not show. Next time I would leave about 1/4" extra and fair it off later.

I will say that I am not the most talented woodworker, so I opted to do things more manually with the tools I was the most comfortable with. That said, it worked great for me!

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

Thanks for the transom advice, I cut the 14 degree angle on the frames with the table saw and the transom bevel with a circular saw before assembly. I did a bit of fine tuning after assembly with the hand planer and the epoxy is setting up. The transom sits quite nice in relation to the keel. It’s starting to look like a boat! I have 30 weeks until I hope to take a ride. Mark

Transom is secure (the spots in the piture are early season NY snowflakes) and the 14 degree angle came out great. The second picture shows the chine logs epoxied and screwed in place after frame 5 was squared up (the initial setting for frame 5 was a bit off). The bottom battens and sheer clamps are next...........

The chine logs and bottom battens are in place, sheer clamps are next. I am undecided on what shape the limbers will be, half round or square (any advice out there, please offer). I am of the though, the round limbers will be less likely to trap debris over the years and the angular limbers will. Since my frames are at the same level as the battens, I figure that limbers must also be cut in each frame on both sides of the keel in addition to the battens adjacent to the transom. Soon I will begin the fairing with my version of the Bevelator 1000 (http://davesboat.blogspot.com/2009/04/b ... pdate.html)

Really cool. Is this framing all hand cut from the tree?

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

All of the lumber is black cherry that I cut myself; it was cut into boards and dried at the local saw mill. The battens are a bit lighter in color because I used young sap wood. My stock is running low and I have picked another tree for the interior work. The plywood is purchased from a dealer in Albany, NY. I am starting to work the boards that will eventually be the black cherry veneer, 1/4" thick with bead and cove edges. I plan to do a plank veneer on the sides, and a combination of strips and narrow planks in the deck (the Wood Aye thread gave me the idea). viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4257&hilit=wood+aye&start=15

sheer clamps are in and the bevelator 1000 is ready, time to start sculpting (fairing)..............

She sure is taking shape nicely. I used round limbers, but as I have yet to launch my lady its hard to tell if its better or not than angular.

Fairing is one of those milestones I dreaded but was very glad to get done. In the end it was not quite as horrible an experience as I imagined. It just took some patience with myself.

Looking good so far, excited to see her with her skins on no doubt!

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Ian (aka Iggy)
My Malahini Build

The bottom fairing is roughed in and the lines look pretty good, the air file and sanding block are next to make sure there are no bumps. The sheer clamps and transom sides remain. I have plywood scarfing on my mind. My plans came with a set of plans for a circular saw scarfing jig that I will be making next.......... I have decided to do half round limbers with the router once the fairing is complete. I am thrilled with the progress; things are going much faster with the tools I have acquired over the years. (the picture is hazy from all the dust in the air)

I have the boat faired and the plywood scarfing jig is done. I need to know if the scarfed plywood should be epoxied together before installation or epoxied together as I put the plywood on the boat.

I scarfed my side panels together before applying to the hull,and even though I used pre-drilled locator holes through the panels to align them when gluing, they misaligned just enough to throw off when mounted on the hull so I had to re-drill the other locator holes I had done through the panels & into the chines, shear etc.
I almost didn't have enough over hangs to re-align the panels on the frame either.
I had to work super fast to get all the gluing and fastening done before the epoxy kicked on the full size panels too.

I glued the bottom panels in place.....much more manageable.

Long story,short answer,IN MY OPINION,either is fine,but long panels are easier to glue in place!!

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Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Here is my thread starting where I showed scarfing the sides:

viewtopic.php?p=72952#p72952

And how I did the bottom:

viewtopic.php?p=72952#p72952

viewtopic.php?p=72952#p72952

When you do apply the panels,if you can get to the inside,clean off the squeeze out before it gets hard,it's tough to do later!!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

I'd have to do it on the boat. First, I work alone and can't handle the panel size. And, second no matter how hard I try something will slip or be out just that much.

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Thanks for the ideas, I now plan to cut the scarf's and epoxy them on the boat. I like the small panel size, I am working on my own. I will be installing a black cherry veneer over the plywood and if there are any issues with the scarf joints, they won't be visible. I have been planing the 1/2'" black cherry boards down to 1/4" and the bead and cove shaping is next.

The 3/8" marine plywood is on the sides and the double 1/4" bottom is next. I should have the first round of black cherry veneer cut and shaped tomorrow, 1/4" thick with bead and cove long joints. I will do a short non structural scarf at 45 degrees with the miter saw when I join the plank veneer ends. As I look at the transom of Sarotina, I appreciate the large beam, 7'11".