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start'n ta see her take some shape Weller!!! sweet deal

Well weller, Thanksgiven is over, you get anything done lately????

I have been waiting on epoxy, so I started fairing. I finished the stem, chines and part of the keel. Then I noticed the transom is set a 1/4 in. to high.(or low if the boat was right side up) So I cut a 1/4 in. off and now I have to start over with the keel. A minor mistake makes a lot of extra work. Eventually I'll get it right.

I'm trying to figure out the plywood and I ran into a problem. The plywood buts into the third lamination of the sheer as per the detail drawings. It all looks good until about the 7th frame where the plywood starts to overlap the third lamination of the sheer. If I did it that way then I would have a flat spot that is 2" wide up to the 7th frame and 2 1/2" wide from there front. What am I not seeing or is this normal? The camera is dead so I can't put up some pics. I can try to explain it better if this don't make sense.

Here are a couple of pics in the area that I have questions on.

Just about done fairing and ready to put on the plywood.

Here are a few more.

Weller I can't answer yer questions but she's coming along great! She's really big and some nice lines in that bow.

On the shear design you came up with, did you add to the bow or take away from the stern? It apears like you took away from the stern to get the shear design you wanted... It looks good bud and I'm sure someone will come up with an answer to yer question.

Keep them pics coming man!!!

I added 6" to the front 6 frames to get the sheer I wanted.

Because you added 6", and no one on the forum has built this model, you might have to just wing it here.

You may have to add some fillers to the shears to get the side& deck ply to come together,or have a large flat spot on the shear to which you can add a rub rail.

You will probably have to use your best discretion on this area unfortunately,unless someone can see exactly what you see and can offer some advice.

You have done a great job on the mods though, and with some C&C time, you'll figure out a great outcome!!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream

Your are right on the money. I had some c&c time and decided a 4th layer up front will do the trick. When I raised the front, it made the flair flatter. So instead of the plywood coming down on the sheer, it rides on top. Another layer will make it butt into the back of the final layer. It would have been a lot easier to follow the plans....

I love the lines of the raised sheer, Carolina Flair, or what you call it. Adding 6" to a already generous bow will make that one helluva saltwater boat.

You gonna power it with what?

_________________
God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

I"m not sure. At first I was thinking 350, then you said about the 383, then I seen a engine called a 420 offshore that seems pretty awesome, and then there is always the diesel. I have a while until the engine goes in so I'll change my mind 10 more times.

Okay lets try this again. Its important to get the first layer flat, fair and uniform. From this layer the shape is tranfers and telegraphs to the top layer and you want to keep fairing or filling to a minimum. With the shape that you have created you have a lot of things going on. While you may get by with narrower plywood panels on a bias, full sheets of plywood will not plank the sides with the compound and "corkscrew" shape that you have ended up with. For me personally I have never been able to use full panels foward with the sweeping sheerline incorporated with any real amount of flare.




Hopefully this shot show the many angles and shapes which is generated by the flare and sweeping up and out of the sheerline.


This is the way I handle the foward most part of the sheer, which ends up in a vertical postion since you cannot really torture a twist into any sizable batten.
Its important that the edges lays flat along the curvature of the sheer batten which is continously curving in the foward area. Depending on what material you are using, thin plywood probably for you, 1/4" can be coaxed to cup and held in place until the generous glue cures behind the initial layer.


If you take a closer look at the veneers you will see that I also use temporary strips to keep the edges aligned until the glue dries. Make sure you glue the edges and if at all possible clean the extra on both sides that ends up squeezing out before it cures. I also use temporary plastic sheet or plastic tape on the faces if need be so that the pieces will not stick. I also use sheetrock fine thread which pulls the seams in line. When I finish the glue ups I cut the edges uniform with the sheer batten back to where the planking lays flat and then glue up one more piece of the batten to the outside of the existing batten butting it up to the plank thats lays flat further back on the sides. Pictures on that later in the week..

Thanks for posting this Mike....I'm sure this will help him!!

_________________
Boat building can best be defined as an endless series of
tragedies obscured by the occasional miracle, followed by a good bottle of beer.

Don't Dream Your Life, Live Your Dream