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 Post subject: Need advice on limbers
PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:41 pm 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:49 am
Posts: 35
Im finally got the cuddy sport faired out and am ready to cut limbers into my bottom battens. I could use as much advice as posible on this. My plan was to cut each of them right behind the fasteners that hold them to the frames. My battens are 1 1/8" thick. Im having a hard time deciding how deep and wide to make them. The plans and instructions do not even mention limbers in the battens. Am I putting to many in? should i just be putting them in at the transom only? (The bottom planking will be 1/2" if that means anything.)


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PostPosted: Sat Apr 21, 2012 7:51 pm 
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Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:20 pm
Posts: 435
Location: Harlan, IN
The idea of limbers are to create a path for whatever water is shipped on board, (rain, splashover, spilled cold beverages, ) has a path to get to either the bilge pumps or other drain point.

I'd decide first where the bilge pumps are going to be, then cut the limbers to allow water to flow to them. Some builders eliminate them altogether and just plan on spongeing up whatever water gets down to the bilges.

It looks like there will be plenty of space between your frames and the flooring for any large amount of water to flow easily to the stern alongside the battens, so all you need the limber slots for is to drain the small amount of water that would lie on the outboard side of the batten. Even if you took a wave over the side, you're only looking at 2 or three gallons that would be trapped on the high side of the battens. A set of limbers at the transom would probably be fine, or if you want more, put another set near where the stem meets the keel. That way if your boat sits low at the bow, it will drain to the keel.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 3:59 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 01, 2010 2:33 pm
Posts: 336
Location: Collegeville, Pa
I agree with Brian and vote for limbers only across the battens at the transom to allow trapped water to flow down toward the keel. That should do it since your battens sit on the frames. On my build (Gentry), the battens are recessed into the frames which made it necessary to put limbers into each frame on the outboard side of the battens to allow water to flow to the transom. Then at the transom, I put limbers on each batten allowing the flow to the keel. I then installed two bilge pumps (one on each side of the keel. I made the limbers on the battens 3/8" deep which is half the thickness of the battens. They are about 5/8" wide. Then I reinforced the battens in that area by gluing a 3/4" thick piece on the top of each batten. These pieces extend from the transom out about 12" or so. I hope that helps you.

Neel


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 22, 2012 4:01 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:49 am
Posts: 822
Location: Colborne ON Can
Tom; I agree with Brian here. I put limbers through the battens at the lowest point (predicted) in the hull, assuming thats where any water running along the top of the battens would collect. This is obviously where the bilge pump will be, so that should determine where they should go. You have the advantage of not needing limbers through the frames, as your battens aren't recessed.
I cut mine with a router bit ( use a backer to prevent tear-out and make a guide board to clamp on the batten) about 1/4" by 1 1/2".
Make sure to epoxy these before you plank.
Nice job on the framework.
Doug


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 23, 2012 11:07 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 11, 2011 3:49 am
Posts: 35
THANKS for the advice. Ill be cuting them in at the transon only... Oh boy, wont be long till get to put the skin on her :D :D :D


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