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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 1:34 pm 
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IM fitting the sheers and laminateing them at the bow. i got longest pieces i could get and from the bow they only go past the 3 rd frame but thats where it starts too straighten out.It passes that frame by only 3 in. im going to butt joint it.ill also reinforse it on the other side of the frame.do you think that be strong enough or should i go hunting for some longer pieces ? im useing white oak and the wood fot the butt joint is 1 in. thick and 1 1/2 in. wide.


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:27 pm 
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Would that be a YES or A NO ! :lol: :roll: :!: :?: :?: :?:


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 2:43 pm 
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Is it made up of laminations...if so I would say it fine. If not, you might scarf join the pieces so the joints don't end on frames.

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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 3:38 pm 
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Svenole,

I scarf jointed my sheer clamps on the Lil Hunk. If you butt joint them you may have conflicts down the line with backing plates for deck cleats or other thru deck options in the space between the sheer clamp and the carlins.

Seiner


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 3:53 pm 
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Thanks,but what im worried about is the butt joint staighting out the slight curve beteen 3 and 4.its more of a angle there anyway!


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PostPosted: Fri May 11, 2012 10:33 pm 
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My two cents worth.....

I scarfed mine, the inside later is between frame 1 & 2, the middle is between 2 & 3 and the out side is back between 1 & 2 again.


I think you could easily get away with a but joint on the middle layer, but I think the others would work much better as scarfs.

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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2012 3:18 am 
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Hi Svenole,

Butt joins have very little strength. Even a small bend will tend to break them unless you back them first (from experience here), and that may cause an issue with the piece bending nicely. Personally, from my very little experience I'd scarf it unless it was a straight piece with a straight doubler.
You pays your money, you takes your chance.... ;)

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 4:13 am 
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can you scarf on a curve?thanks


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 4:37 am 
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Absolutely. My sheers are made up of 3 laminations of 1/2 thick white oak by 2 wide. I scarfed lengths together to get the length needed for the whole boat. When I installed them, I made sure the scarfs were offset from each other. This essentially made the next lamination a backing block to a scarf as well. In the end, I had a 1 1/2 x 2 in sheer nicely curved.

Word of caution. Be sure to roughen the ends of the scarf for the epoxy to have something to get a hold of and leave the clamps in place until the joint fully cures or you will get this:


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 4:49 am 
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Thank you ! i was at a stand still for awhile>dont like that! my chine and sheer are are 1 1/2 inchs wide 1 inch thick,so so the stock ill be scarfing is 1/2 in.what is the length of the scarf for this ? and whats the best way to cut it ? thank you again.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 4:59 am 
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Im thinking 8 to 1 >so each scarf cut would be 4 in. >right ? clamp the 2 pieces together and belt sand it to the lines ?


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 5:43 am 
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What Dave said and more. On our Zip the sheer clamps are laminated from two pieces, scarf-joined to get the required length. The joints are between the transom and Frame 2, which is the straightest part of the sheer, and staggered by approximately one foot. Without going out and measuring the ratio, I'll venture a guess and call it 6:1. Had we made the sheer clamps from a single piece I would have taken this out to 12:1, but would still avoid placing the joint where significant bending is required, i.e., up forward. As built, we've had no problems.

-Mark Shipley

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 5:57 am 
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For some reason, people are intimidated by the scarf joint.

Once you have done one or two, they are really easy.

Here's a post I made a few years ago on the "five minute" scarf...

viewtopic.php?f=11&t=10095&p=69504&hilit=5+minute+scarf#p69504

The belt sander would work as well as the hand plane.

This wood was thin, so I did not bother using a saw for the initial "rough cut". I would only bother with the saw for stock more than about 3/4" thick.

Scarfs can be bent, but generally, we want solid, straight-grained wood in the areas of the most intense bending.

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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2012 7:15 am 
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thanks again.my problem is this piece ends just past 8 >thats where it starts to straighten out.im doing 2 lams and with this lumber the second scarf would be at a bend then.


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