Building The Vera Cruise

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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mrintense
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by mrintense »

Yes, this weight thing is really a guess at best. I do feel that my build is heavier than plan, but a lot heavier, I don't know. I rather doubt it. When I first started building, I had this grand idea of weighing every piece before installation and keep track of it. Ha!!

The small scale I had (a hanging type) failed after just a few tries. Furthermore, I realized how silly it was. It was the engineering side of me that temporarily made me lose my sensibilities!!

In other news, not a lot of progress this week. I've been putting in 10-12 hour work days all week trying to get a particularly difficult piece of software to a usable point. Progress was made there and I have been able to get back to building today. I'm cleaning up the motorwell area in preparation for painting touchup, some other final bits, and then assembly.

Things to do before that, clean out the drain holes in the transom and install the plug tubes, mark and cut out the access panels in the motorwell bulkhead, do some additional pre-encapsulation work on the interior of the motorwell, locate and install some vents and LED light strips, and determine the ideal path for electrical wiring, fuel lines, and throttle cabling and then make holes for that.

Not too bad, probably take a week or so. I'll want to give the paint plenty of time to cure before assembly, and encapsulation is always slow waiting for epoxy to cure for the next coat.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

Goodell
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by Goodell »

mrintense wrote:
Sat Nov 07, 2020 8:54 am
Yes, this weight thing is really a guess at best..
I would argue the opposite - the only exception would be using A LOT more fiberglass than needed. Otherwise if you glassed more or less normally, you motor, gas, batteries, misc electronics, recreational gear, etc are known weights give or take 50 lbs. Even if you assume you added 300 over the basic hull estimate, your boat weight cannot exceed ~2600lbs. For ski performance and overall power needs I would look for a leftover ETEC 115 G2. Integrated steering, 2 stroke power, cleanest emissions, economical, incredible technology (isteer,icontrol, itilt)...torque of a 150 4 stroke.

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mrintense
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by mrintense »

It's funny how this small discussion about weight and motors is getting me somewhat excited about the possibility of actually using this boat after so many years.

I decided yesterday that I was at another of those points in my build where I felt I needed to do something everyday regardless if it was the best choice or in the right order. This has gotten me into jams in the past when I put something together or cut something too soon and then realize I should have waited until some other items (that I forgot about) were completed.

I've dealt with this in the past my updating my todo lists. Invariably that means adding new items and making the list longer again, but I like doing this because then I can know in advance what needs to get done daily (more or less). So yesterday was spent (amongst other things) do just that in regards to the motorwell. I'm glad I did because there were several items which needed to be addressed soon which slipped my mind.

Last night and this morning, I spent in the thinking chair going over the remaining parts that need to be made. One of those is a place for the electrical switch and AC charging unit.. At first I had thought of installing it in the battery compartment, but at the best of times, that compartment is going to be a bit of effort to open up, more than I probably want to do when thinking about turning the battery switch.

So what I've decided to do instead is mount it in the compartment under the carling just forward of the motorwell (and just in front of the battery compartment). The main concerns with this new location were leaving the option open to eventually install permanent seating there (if I decide to do so) and make sure that the battery access panel (and battery access) is still good. The switch (and the charger) will be easily accessible by a hinged panel on the sidewall panel (at least that's the plan).

I'll post a picture of it set in place as soon as I can get it cleaned up
It's a mess right now (before clean up) and probably not obvious how it will be mounted. But imagine it turned on end with the "T" shelf at the top. The switch and charger panel is the longer panel that will be vertical under the shelf. The shelf is part of the isolation I am building to keep the fuel system separate from the electrical system since they both go through the same side of the boat.
It's a mess right now (before clean up) and probably not obvious how it will be mounted. But imagine it turned on end with the "T" shelf at the top. The switch and charger panel is the longer panel that will be vertical under the shelf. The shelf is part of the isolation I am building to keep the fuel system separate from the electrical system since they both go through the same side of the boat.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

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chugalug
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by chugalug »

When I did the wiring,I put one of those breaker switches in line between battery switch and main fuse panel up for'ward.Glad I did as while hooking up batteries-touched cables momentarily and popped that breaker.WHEW.Kinda tight in that battery drawer with big stiff cables and 2 batteries.
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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mrintense
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by mrintense »

I plan on fusing all circuits when I finally get going on that. Although its still a ways off, I am starting to think about it more and more. Not really sure where to start with that first, but it'll come to me in time.

I'm still battling excessive work hours . Software development is like that at times. I put out some questions to my outboard dealer trying to get some information regarding running of cabling, wiring harnesses, fuel lines, etc into the motorwell. Expect to hear back on that soon.

One task I have to figure out is where to run the aft bilge pump hoses to. The pumps will be located in the center of the motorwell and one thought I had was to route the hoses up to the splashwell. But how to do it or should I do it?

I can't run them vertically up because they would just be drains for the splash well back to the bilge. The only way to run them to the sides of the splashwell is to go through the lower side compartments and then loop back up to the splash well (or something similar in the motorwell bulkhead). I don't care for running the hoses through the motorwell bulkhead. Looping them through the side compartments and back up to the splashwell doesn't sound great either. My other concern with this approach is that if the stern were sinking, I don't think the pumps would be any help in getting water out of the bilge.

One other option is to run the hoses forward a bit under the floor boards and then exit out the sides, but I am wondering how low the back end will be in the water underway and where I would place the through hulls from a height perspective.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by DrBryanJ »

Carl, I believe many run the bilge pump into the splash well. You can use backflow preventers on your hoses. That is my plan at least.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."
We're still happily married, but now she just wants "the dam boat out of the garage."

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chugalug
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by chugalug »

IMG_1588.JPG
I saw a solution for that in "woodenboat" -2 bilge pumps -one alot larger than the primary pump hooked together with back flow preventer
Last edited by chugalug on Thu Nov 12, 2020 6:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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TomB
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by TomB »

Carl,

I anchored the bilge hose along the side of frame 1. At the exit point, the hose is turned in a tight loop to change direction from vertical to horizontal ( P shape) and connects to the through-hull. The hose is completely hidden below the sole and ceiling except where it loops just above the through-hull.

Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23

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mrintense
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by mrintense »

I've been waiting to get some advice from the outboard dealer on placement of some of the exit holes in the motorwell for the various cabling, electrical, and fuel lines. In the meantime, I am finalizing the design for the helm instrument panel. Here is what I believe I am going to go with. The left edge of the blue tape in the middle is the center line so don't let that through you off. The two horizontal tape inside edges represent a placement for a smaller instrument with some room to spare to clear structure underneath the panel. Same with the two outer vertical tape strips.

I am not sure what type or shape of ignition switch I need yet so the rectangle is a stand in until I can figure that out. The horn button is a contura switch and this is the size of the bezel.

The other switches for bilge pumps, lights, etc will be on a horizontal panel below this panel. The steering wheel will be a slightly smaller radius than the smaller instruments arc shown here.

I am wondering if I've left anything out. There will NOT be a speedometer. Trim and hours could be swapped depending upon the orientation of the trim switch on the steering wheel.

I was originally thinking of having the bilge pump switches here as well as a phone holder, but I don't think either of those will work in this space and would mess up the appearance of the dash.

I am interested in any feedback.

PXL_20201118_220224985.jpg
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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TomB
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by TomB »

Hi Carl,

If you're looking for more space, get a tach with an hour meter in it. I've never had a trim gauge, not sure what they do, if the nose is up or the boat starts to act like a hobby horse I adjust the trim. :D I'd put the horn in the companionway side. I haven't always been at the helm when someone needed 5 short blasts. :x :x

Tom
In the home stretch on a Tahoe 23

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chugalug
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by chugalug »

Are you going with hydrolic steering or cable?I have a small steering wheel on cable on my fishing boat and sometimes I really have to pry it around to turn that 90 merc.
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


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Roberta
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by Roberta »

Faria makes some nice all in one gauges that would take care of fuel, voltage, oil pressure, and water temperature. They have a tach with hour meter and a GPS speedometer that is self contained with compass. No antenna.

Roberta :D
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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mrintense
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by mrintense »

Thanks for the responses. I already have the instruments which were purchased back in the Spring. What I am trying to do now is determine if the layout works and if I am forgetting anything.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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hoodman
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by hoodman »

Definitely nice to have a trim gauge on an outboard. Yeah you can react to the negative symptoms of trim but once you know where your motor is happy at different speeds and loads you can adjust trim and see where you are with a glance at the gauge. I would put the trim in a conspicuous spot close to your tach. Those are my two most important pieces of information regarding performance.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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hoodman
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Re: Building The Vera Cruise

Post by hoodman »

I would put fuel and trim at the top. Everything else is functional obviously but really decorative.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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