sscobra wrote:Carl, not having been to you garage, I can't be certain that my technique will work for you, but it might. My space is also very limited, about 1.5 feet between the widest part of the boat and the wall of my shop. I attached my chines from the stem back towards the transom. I used a roller stand, although anything tall enough would work, back near the transom end of the chine piece, up against the wall. I rested the chine on it and then placed the chine in the slot of the frame nearest the stem, bowing the chine against the wall of my shop. Since the chine is not in the other slots it is much easier to bend it toward the stem. You can loosely clamp the chine in that first slot to help hold it. I then held a piece of wood against the opposite side of the stem and the first frame back from the stem, roughly parallel to the chine. I then used an Irwin type quick clamp (squeeze grip) to clamp between the chine and this piece of wood. This freed up my hands to get a c-clamp ready. This way you can clamp between two roughly parallel pieces of wood instead of the angle of the stem with respect to the chine. You can really pull the chine in tight to the stem. It might take several iterations to get the chine in just the right position. When you have it there, mark where the chine leaves the slot in the frame nearest the stem, so when you get ready to glue it in place, you have a reference mark to line things up. You can also drill the holes in the chine for screwing it to the stem. Then just work back towards the transom. If your chine is not cut at just the right angle to mate up to the stem, place a piece of wood on top of the chine, against the stem, making sure that this piece of wood is thick enough to cover any gap between the chine and the stem. Use your saw (a Japanese pull saw in my case) and use this piece of wood as a guide to cut the chine. This piece of wood insures that you are cutting perfectly parallel to the stem. Skip
Thanks for the idea Skip. I read this yesterday but was too busy too respond. Part of it didn't make sense to me at the time because I hadn't read it closely. The part about having a board between the stem and the next frame back that was parallel to the chine.
It hit me this morning on the way to work. I understand now what you meant and it looks like that will be the ticket for getting some clamping on the area. I also like the idea of using a block of wood slightly larger than the gap at the stem / chine angle to use as a guide for the saw.
As for installing from front to back, I think I can use that as well although slightly modified. The amount of bend at the front would make this difficult to start without some preliminary bending. Also I don't have the notch in frame 6 (closest to the stem) on the second chine established yet. So I think I will do the preliminary bend at frame 5 to get me in the ball park, then try the approach of finishing the fitting and installation going from front to back.
I admit to not having been out in the garage since Monday(had to get over a cold sufficiently) so I will need to look everything over before trying this approach. But the longer leverage available doing this way would be great to have.