modified malahini

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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obd
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Re: modified malahini

Post by obd » Thu Nov 02, 2017 8:57 pm

Returning briefly to the water line discussion, can an okoume plywood bottom be stained to match the mahogany veneer side planking at the bow between the chine and the water line or will I need to veneer that portion of the bottom as well? I prefer not to bring the bottom paint all the way to the chine/stem junction if possible. Thanks , Bob

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Fri Nov 03, 2017 4:49 am

Bob:

At the bow, I veneered beyond what I thought was the water line. I guess it is possible to match the stain, but would be a lot of trial and error. If you look at page three, you can see where I used two different thickness plywoods at the bow to accommodate the veneer.
Bryan

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Jimbob
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Re: modified malahini

Post by Jimbob » Fri Nov 03, 2017 8:49 am

Bob,
I tried to stain the okoume that I used on the frame gussets and it looked like hell. I would suggest the veneer.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: modified malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Fri Nov 03, 2017 9:22 am

Many people paint the waterline until it crosses the chine. Then they follow the chine up to the stem.

Bill
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obd
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Re: modified malahini

Post by obd » Sat Nov 04, 2017 7:29 am

Thanks guys. Bryan, I have been following and admiring your build. So, just to make sure I understand this properly, I could use 3/8(or metric equivalent) plywood in the aft portion of the bottom and 1/4(or metric equivalent) plywood plus veneer, to make up the difference in thickness, on the forward portion of the bottom? I really like the way the truer water line at the bow looks. Bob

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Sat Nov 04, 2017 8:36 am

Bob, that is how I did it. Worked out nicely. I used a laser level at the waterline and made sure the plywood transition was above that line.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Mon Nov 06, 2017 3:16 pm

I have the fiberglass on and the weave filled. Started sanding with 80 grit.

So, here is my dumb question of the day: I glassed to the waterline. When I paint where do I stop? Bottom paint to the waterline or slightly above? What about the boot stripe? Should the top of the boot stripe be 1" above water line, or maybe 2"? Is there an accepted standard or do whatever you think looks best?
Bryan

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Re: modified malahini

Post by PeterG » Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:15 pm

Many classic style mahogany boats seemed to have the bottom paint up to about 1 inch or so above the waterline with the boot stripe above that line. Typically on smaller hulls (<18 ft) you find a 1 inch boot stripe, with wider ones for longer hulls.
Many will chime in here now and hopefully you can find a good consensus!
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vupilot
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Re: modified malahini

Post by vupilot » Mon Nov 06, 2017 4:41 pm

I feel its personal preference of what you like the look of. I like to see a little of the bottom paint and all of the stripe. Others dont want to see any of it or just the stripe. Do what you like.

I like the idea in your case of really sanding that edge of the fiberglass really well so it wont be seen or felt and then have some paint above that so if you happen to sand a little too much paint will cover it. Those fiberglass edges have a way of telegraphing through even when you think you sanded and faired the bejesus out of it.

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Re: modified malahini

Post by PeterG » Mon Nov 06, 2017 8:39 pm

I agree about the edge of the fiberglass telegraphing through... Could show through the paint. If you have room with the height of your bottom paint, you can try a little fairing compound (thickened epoxy) to fair/blend in the edge of the fiberglass to the hull sides.
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Re: modified malahini

Post by Hercdrvr » Mon Nov 06, 2017 9:07 pm

I’m with Chris on how much bottom Paint and stripe shows above the water line, Builders choice.
This is a tough call on where the water line will be with the modified V bottom. I think the key to an attractive boot stripe is that it parallels the water. Unlike my Malahini stripe that is submerged aft and 4 inches out of the water forward.

I would want my fiberglass line to be hidden in the paint so I wouldn’t bring the glass up too high. Nobody is going to notice the fiberglass line in the paint.

Most important is have it at the gathering next year!!

Matt B

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:11 am

I"m back in sanding hell :x :x Feathering edges of cloth with 80 grit on a rubber sanding block. Will start the field with 80 grit on a longboard.

My question of the day: I know I have to build up the corner where the transom and bottom meet to a knife edge, but what about where I rounded over the keel for the fiberglass? Does that need to be a sharp edge as well?
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: modified malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Nov 08, 2017 9:29 am

Bryan

Not on the keel. Production boat don't have don't have "knife" edge on the transom. Mine are rounded about like an old wood pencil. I'm to clumsy to have sharp edges around me. I think there is a point of overkill on this.

Bill
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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Wed Nov 08, 2017 10:47 am

Thanks Bill. Are you saying I don't have to worry about the transom edge either?
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: modified malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Nov 08, 2017 11:41 am

Bryan


If it's 1/8' to 1/4" radius, I wouldn't mess with it.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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