modified malahini

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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hoodman
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Re: modified malahini

Postby hoodman » Mon Aug 06, 2018 3:36 pm

The strakes look great.

Hercdrvr
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Aug 06, 2018 7:39 pm

I thought you had a surf board strapped to the roof of the car
Matt B

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Postby DrBryanJ » Tue Aug 07, 2018 5:07 am

Not may breakers in KY, except for the barge wakes on the Ohio :lol: :lol:
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Postby DrBryanJ » Mon Aug 13, 2018 6:09 am

I've been working a lot on the boat this week. Got the lift stakes encapsulated and sanded. Yesterday I put on three coats of System Three SIlverTip Yacht Primer. I used a 6" foam roller and a 2" Zibra brush I found at box Store. It has very fine smooth bristles. I think it did a very nice job.
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Sorry pictures are a little blurry. It was 1:30 am when I finished.

Questions for anyone who used System Three Primer and WR-LPU. How long did you wait to sand the primer? What tools did you sand with? DId you wet or dry sand? Instructions say to start with 100 - 120 work thru 220 - 320. That seems a little aggressive to start with>
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

Hercdrvr
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:01 am

Looks nice Bryan, flip that baby over, hang the motor, couple lawn chairs to sit on and hit it. I’m anxious to see how your hull performs.
Matt B

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Roberta
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Roberta » Mon Aug 13, 2018 8:39 am

I used the Yacht primer and WR-LPU on my Zip. Personally I would not sand it beyond 220. Sanding before top coat isn't required. The WR-LPU likes a little roughness to bite into. Sanding can be done as soon as it is cured in 24 hrs, if you want to.

Make sure you paint the WR-LPU in cooler temps with high humidity. This stuff flashes very quickly and will not flow out to a smooth finish if applied in low humidity and higher temps. Avoid overworking the product. Once it is down, leave it alone. Small goofs can be sanded and touched up in subsequent coats. Once cross linked, this paint is very tough and hard to sand. Use thinner coats. Thick coats will run and curtain. They look great when layed down, but a minute or two later may be on the floor.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Postby DrBryanJ » Mon Aug 13, 2018 9:55 am

Next question. I bought a 20" shaft 90hp etec to use. Now that I have painted, I see that the lower mounting holes for the engine will be below the water line (bottom of tape on painted area)
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. If I change to a 25" shaft, the holes will be at the bottom of the tape on the stained area. So, should I change to a 25" shaft motor? If I do, how do I add to the transom? If I just drop a piece of plywood into the gap, I am afraid it will want to brake out.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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mrintense
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Re: modified malahini

Postby mrintense » Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:05 am

Bryan, I am no expert on this, but I thought I would throw this out there for other's (and yourself) to consider. Not knowing the dimensions of your cutout, I cannot comment directly on the measurements you mentioned, however, the first thing I would do is double check them.

Then as an alternative to decreasing the cutout (and having to deal with the issue you mentioned) , would it be possible to mount an adapter plate of some type to raise the engine mounting holes. Like I said, I am no expert here and I am not even sure this is a viable option, but I thought I would at least put it out there for consideration.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

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DrBryanJ
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Re: modified malahini

Postby DrBryanJ » Mon Aug 13, 2018 11:45 am

Thanks for your input Carl:

I've checked the measurements multiple times. When I made the changes to the malahini design I thought a 20" shaft would work. Not knowing anything about outboards, or thinking where the waterline would be on the transom. That was a big assumption on my part. Now that I am years into the build, this is a devastating development. I don't know how to make modifications to what I have already built and I've spent $3500 on a motor i probably can't use. Even if there is a mounting plate I could use, I still need a longer shaft motor. I think there are kits for increasing the shaft length, but they are not cheap either.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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mrintense
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Re: modified malahini

Postby mrintense » Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:28 pm

Well I probably don't need to tell you this Bryan, but take your time on this and don't do anything expensive or irreversible before carefully considering and researching options. In other words, don't paint yourself into a corner and make a bad situation worse. It may slow down the build, and that is unfortunate, but the alternative could be far worse (including loss of the boat). Not trying to be negative here, but there are a lot of talented individuals here as well as out in the real world. Check the internet, You Tube, boat dealers, mechanic shops, mounting plate vendors, and of course here on the forum.

I feel for you but I am sure there will be an answer out there somewhere with some serious looking.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Brad Tucker
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Brad Tucker » Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:30 pm

Unless I am missing something, don't despair just yet. There are many many outboard boats out there with the lower 2 mounting holes below the waterline while sitting. My old fish n ski with a 150 is one of them.

You could also take a look at a Jack plate. They make them that are aluminum, and are designed to lift or lower the motor vertically, either to a set height using a wrench, or the more expensive hydraulic ones. It may be possible to redrill the bottom two holes in it, above the waterline (just a thought).

gdcarpenter
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Re: modified malahini

Postby gdcarpenter » Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:33 pm

Would the engine mounting holes being below the water line necessarily be a deal breaker?
Seems there should be a viable way to waterproof the through bolts.
Oversize SS 'Fender Washers' siliconed to the transom on either end?
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

Brad Tucker
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Brad Tucker » Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:33 pm

This type of Jack plate.
Attachments
JPL4000-2T.jpg

Brad Tucker
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Brad Tucker » Mon Aug 13, 2018 12:42 pm

I used to rig boats many moons ago. Many had mounting bolts below WL. The holes were drilled for outboards, silicone pumped into the holes, bolts with big aluminum washers shoved most of the way in, silicone under the inside washer, bolts shoved all the way in, silicone around the protruding bolt, motor mounted. The only boat I ever saw that got water in it from a bolt was because a moron in the shop forgot to silicone the bolt holes. It was a virtually "unsinkable" FishNSki Barge. It came back with a 45 degree dirty waterline across the center console. Luckily it was tied to a dock. Bad news is that it was the local Game warden's new DNR work boat. :shock:

Hercdrvr
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Re: modified malahini

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Aug 13, 2018 2:32 pm

Let’s see here, it’s 20 inches from the transom cutout to the keel, right? Where the motor gets mounted is fixed within a couple inches. With your added “V” aft I see a whole lot of water being displaced and I think your calculated waterline might turn out to be not as high as you think.

I think you’re good and if it’s a problem the solution is later down the road.

Like Ol’ St Francis said, “Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to change the things I can and the wisdom to know the difference.”
Matt B


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