Crackerbox fever

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

Post Reply
User avatar
narduccimarine
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Decatur Alabama
Contact:

Crackerbox fever

Post by narduccimarine » Tue Oct 31, 2006 5:48 pm

Are there any other Crackerbox builders out there ?
I have been working on mine for almost 2 years now. I started out strong and then slowed down. After seeing Tunahelpers project, I got the bug again and got busy on mine.
I would like to share experiences with any others starting or working on their cracker
Bob
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net

lakeracer69
Posts: 192
Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:14 am
Location: NH

Post by lakeracer69 » Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:42 am

Hi,

I'm building one in NH. Going with a bobtail drive and 9 degree strut with outboard rudder bracket. I have a 420 HP SB Chevy motor with a hydraulic roller cam. I have just found a new spot to continue building.
I put everything together on the form 2 years ago and it went together like a fine puzzle, now I'm back up and running with a new building location. I hope to have it in the water by next summer.

John H.
As Conan the Barbarian says, " It's not how hard you can hit, it's how hard you can get hit and remain standing".

User avatar
narduccimarine
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Decatur Alabama
Contact:

Post by narduccimarine » Fri Nov 03, 2006 10:14 am

Hi John
Sounds good. I am using a basically stock 305, just bored .040 and freshened up with a crank grind and new internals. I figure I would like to get the bugs out with a mild motor and get the feel of the boat handling before going for top end. I am shooting for about 55-60 with this setup.
I have a 12 x 13 3 blade to start with. I am also using an outboard rudder and 12 degree angle. I figure I can always pull this motor and replace it with as much power as I can afford any time.
I have the hull finished, glassed and painted. We flipped it over and I am now working on the drivetrain and engine mounts. I wanted to get most of that done and the fuel system installed before adding the deck.
Also I can get some of the wiring done and routed.
I planned on having this boat done this past year but it didnt pan out. I am committed to having it done this winter.
Bob
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net

lakeracer69
Posts: 192
Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:14 am
Location: NH

Post by lakeracer69 » Fri Nov 03, 2006 12:36 pm

If you haven't done the fuel system yet, I would consider putting it behind the seats. It will be less sensitive to pitch changes as fuel is burned, than if it was mounted up in front of the engine. Lets see some Pics!

John H.
As Conan the Barbarian says, " It's not how hard you can hit, it's how hard you can get hit and remain standing".

az426hemi
Posts: 29
Joined: Tue Jul 18, 2006 3:55 pm
Location: Mesa, AZ

Post by az426hemi » Fri Nov 03, 2006 7:58 pm

Yes, please post some pics. I am hoping to get my plans pretty soon.

Mike

User avatar
narduccimarine
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Decatur Alabama
Contact:

Post by narduccimarine » Sat Nov 04, 2006 5:42 pm

I have some photos on the Customer photos site here but they are old. I sent some last week but they either did not get them or they are slow getting updated.
I did start a photo site at BLondress.photosite.com
They have some I took recently. I have done quite a bit in the last 2 weeks and will post some more in a day or so.
In the pics you see the mockup motor with MDO patterns for the mounts. I have machined those in 6061 aluminum and the new pics will show them. I am working on the deck framing and the thrust bearing set-up this weekend
On the fuel tank comment , I have mounted the tank in the rear. I managed to fit an 18 gallon aluminum tank behind the seat, it takes up most of the room but I am using an outboard rudder so the only access I need is for the bilge pump. I plan on having the seat back removable so I can get to the pump.
Bob
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net

JT Patroni

Post by JT Patroni » Sun Nov 05, 2006 9:23 am

I recieved my plans about 3 weeks ago. At this time I have gone over the plans and made a list of the wood needed for the hull. I have already made room at my shop to set up the support frame. I decided to increase the length to 16'-6". I think this will help with the motor setup and give a smoother ride. As I looked thru the site about construction methods I saw the page relating to the curved transom, it impressed me. Considering I will be using the inboard rudder I think it will give the boat a nicer look.
I plan on using the Marine Vortec 4.3L V-6 motor. With the Fuel injection
marine computer the motor is rated at 225HP without mods. The shorted length motor yields more room for a Velvet-Drive trans and balancing
the boat. Does anyone have any input about the use of this motor?

I have digitized the frame components and have made the programs to cut the parts on my CNC router. I have the machine, I may as well use it.
It will save time and be more accurate than forming the frames by hand.
While it gives much pleasure and satisfaction to build the boat rather than buy one I don't mind using modern equipment to help the process along.

Sorry I have been long winded, but I am excited about this project. I have not built a boat since 1963. Yes, I am an older person that still likes sport and speed.

User avatar
narduccimarine
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Decatur Alabama
Contact:

Post by narduccimarine » Sun Nov 05, 2006 1:31 pm

Hi JT
Sounds good, I got real excited about starting mine but then slacked off. No more, time to get going.
Im an Ex-jerseyite myself, raised in toms river where I still have family.
I dont know what wood you are planning on for your frames, but check out Lowes Southern Yellow pine craft boards. They are straight and clean, hard as rock, and very strong, a little expensive but they make a nice framework.
I have used them exclusively in mine. they come in 1x2 up to 1x10 about 6 or 8 feet long. The only other wood I used in the framework are the longitudinals, which I bought from a local lumber mill. They are also SYP but are less expensive than Lowes but I think even stronger. They also have radiused edges which make them nice to work with.
I am uploading some more photos from this weekends work
Bob
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net

Caber_Feidh
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:25 am
Location: Frozen to the shop floor

Post by Caber_Feidh » Tue Nov 07, 2006 1:56 pm

I managed to catch this fever too, been trying to fight it off, but it failed. Plans are on the way, motor is hiding under a tarp in the garage already. I really haven't figured just exactly how I am going to explain another boat to the CP. When I brought #5 home I got a, shall we say, "all-caps" speech about it.

I think I am going to try for most-insane-overpowered cracker. I have a motor I got from my brother, he had planned for a kit-cobra, but changed his mind in favour of a BB. When I bought that, it was an all caps discussion too... but I wasn't doing any discussing. Thank the heavens for RV's, more comfortable than the couch!

User avatar
muskoka wooden boats
Posts: 10
Joined: Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:17 pm
Contact:

Cracker Box

Post by muskoka wooden boats » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:31 pm

I have this boat and I would recommend carefully calculating your centre of balance including fuel weight, battery, passenger and driver

We put two fuel lines in and I would suggest putting the fuel tank up at the front rather than behind the seat if you are getting in the 300 + hp

I am running 210 hp approx, 283 small block bored 10 over, roller cam, rochestor 4 brl racing carb, racing alumin manifold, and with under 10 gallons the boat runs flat, I weigh 125 lbs but once you load up the fuel: my boat can take 23 gallons it possesises abit

good luck and see my boat on www.portcarlingboats.com


Image
muskoka wooden boats canada, canoe, kayak,sail,row, power, cruisers, lots of pictures and info on www.portcarlingboats.com

User avatar
BruceDow
Posts: 2132
Joined: Sat Jun 17, 2006 2:21 pm
Location: Toronto, ON, Canada
Contact:

Post by BruceDow » Tue Nov 07, 2006 7:42 pm

(off topic...)

I give up... what does "CP" stand for?
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Caber_Feidh
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:25 am
Location: Frozen to the shop floor

Post by Caber_Feidh » Wed Nov 08, 2006 12:16 am

C.P. (Chief Procurer) -individual who is in charge of supplies at home. Also known as the DA (domestic associate) or in some cases "she who must be obeyed".

Good site-see, they keep tempting me with the photos... I know, when I get discovered I'll blame it on the pictures, they MADE my do it!

I am rather amazed they would mount the fuel cell anywhere but in the forward half. I will be likely compounding the whole balance mess with a significantly lighter engine. The hull doesn't really leave allot of fiddle room, especially moving the powerplant forward. Is everyone just building by plans, calculating the rough balance, or actually attempting to physically balance the hull before cutting that ever-irreversible hole in the bottom?

lakeracer69
Posts: 192
Joined: Sun Dec 19, 2004 8:14 am
Location: NH

Post by lakeracer69 » Wed Nov 08, 2006 5:43 am

Two points,

Fuel in the back so pitch change is nominal as fuel (weight) is removed. You should have full length cavitation plates across the back as well. Mine stick outboard of the transom 12" and are adjustable with turnbuckles. This also allows the boat to "think" and act longer than it is.

John H.
As Conan the Barbarian says, " It's not how hard you can hit, it's how hard you can get hit and remain standing".

User avatar
tunahelper
Posts: 76
Joined: Tue Feb 22, 2005 8:07 pm
Location: palm harbor, fl

Post by tunahelper » Wed Nov 08, 2006 6:42 pm

Ditto what lakeracer said.

JT Patroni

Post by JT Patroni » Fri Nov 10, 2006 6:45 pm

I would like to ask a question! With all the talk about balancing the boat, doesn't the shaft angle also help dictate how well the boat planes off?

The more shaft angle, the more the bow will push down. Hence the less shaft angle, there will be more chance the bow will ride high.

I understand the cavitation plates can correct port and starbord pitch as well as fore and aft pitch. Don't we get to a point where each will conflict with the other?

I am just trying to keep my theories from getting me into trouble.

Has anyone tried using a short torque tube between the trans and the shaft allowing for the motor to be adjusted fore and aft to help with the balance? I know room is not plentiful. As I posted last week I plan on using a Vortec 4.3 fuel injected V6 at 225 HP. This motor is shorted than the 5.0 or 5.7 and lighter yet it is still up there in power. I am hoping for a chance to use a adjustable motor mount with torque tube to help solve some of these problems.

Any thoughts and comments would be appreciated, especially from those that have already completed their boats and had them in the water.

Post Reply

Return to “Power Boats”