Monaco Caper

[fredt]

I have an ongoing Monaco project. Up to the first ply laminations . Have the sides first layer completed and starting the bottom first layer The Monaco has a flat section where full sheets of plywood can be used. That is where I am starting with 4mm Okoume ply. My question is since I will be using several layers of 4 mm bottom planking, am I correct in thinking that the joints between these flat sheets and the 6" planks should be staggered from one layer to the next? Couldn't find anything specific about the in all the books and instructions.

Appreciate the help.

[jenko]

on my riviera I put the first layer ending on frame3 , 2nd layer used full sheet, 3rd layer inch short of full sheet 4th layer longitudinal full length veneer

[fredt]

on my riviera I put the first layer ending on frame3 , 2nd layer used full sheet, 3rd layer inch short of full sheet 4th layer longitudinal full length veneer

So you staggered the joint quite a bit. That makes good sense to me for strength also.

[Lowka53]

on my riviera I put the first layer ending on frame3 , 2nd layer used full sheet, 3rd layer inch short of full sheet 4th layer longitudinal full length veneer

So you staggered the joint quite a bit. That makes good sense to me for strength also.

it would add straight and I would recommend it I would stagger at least 2 foot

[fredt]

Thank you both for your replies. It is nice to have knowledgeable help on this forum to supplement all the other instructional material for us new boatbuilders.

[keith]

I asked this same question a while back and got no replies. I have just started the second layer on the bottom and I am doing the aft end with diagonal strips. It's a little more work, but not by much, I've done about a 3rd of that area already

[fredt]

Keith,

Just finishing up first ply on bottom, coming up on starboard side forward of plywood sheet. I searched for the answer but couldnt find one on that question in my instructions. Searched briefly on the forum and figured it was quicker to ask. I am sure it is somewhere I missed but was very happy to get a quick response. I was thinking like you are doing, but based on the responses, will stagger the joint . My first full sheet comes along the keel about 7.5 feet, then angles back to the chine . I followed this angle for the rest of the planks. I think what I am going to do is start my second layer at the bow, on the opposing angle and work back over the solid sheet a couple of feet.

Then the final 3rd layer of plywood will come forward the full 8 feet. That will give me a stagger of 6" between the first and 3rd layers, and about 2 feet on the middle layer. Using the full sheet does eliminate a little work, but like, it isn't that big a deal. Feels good though when you see that full sheet flat and straight to the transom it will also save some sanding back there between the layers.

Are you using a "V" groove on your joints or butting them?

[fredt]

Are you using a "V" groove on your joints or butting them??

Keith,

Saw your blog, answered the V groove question. Your boat looks realy good!

[jenko]

I think what I am going to do is start my second layer at the bow, on the opposing angle and work back over the solid sheet a couple of feet.

I started all layers at the stern and worked towards the bow , that way you always have the straight edge to start the diagonal planking and is easier to trim off at the bow opposed to working back from the bow ,it will be a little more fiddly when you come to the join at the full sheet.imho.

[fredt]

You're right, point is to get a good staggering of the joints between the 3 full sheet plywood joints layers, with the last layer to have the largest sheet .

Thanks

[Old aussie]

Stagger all joints ply, battons, you create a weak spot by placeing joints together in anything .


Old Aussie Peter............

[fredt]

Thanks to all . First ply down, somewhat trimmed up, but not faired yet . It is nice to see the lines coming to shape. Having a great time with this, although stopping for a couple of weeks to catch up on my "honey do" list. (and breath something besides epoxy)

Has anyone ever considered melting down all the staples and other metal fasteners to make their engine out of?

[Bill Edmundson]

I have considered building the next boat from aluminum. Recycled beer cans.

Bill

[fredt]

Am making good progress finally on my Monaco build. Have a question about spiling.

Just started final mahogany lams, have read and researched this site about spiling and am using the method as so
nicely described by "Bob Perkins". Have my first lam on at the chine, and am attempting the classic planking look.

Looking at all the photos and galleries, everyones spiling looks wonderful. Looking at my first attempt, and also
wanting a very good looking boat, I have these questions about the gaps:
\
What is acceptable? What will "fill in " through sanding , epoxy , fiberglass, varnish coats, etc? Although I have
some experiences in veneers, never have I attempted them, on my knees , contorted, kneeling on a staple I missed during sweeping, power cord caught on something, probably due to epoxy on the cord , and on and on. So I may
be being a little hard on myself .

After using the trim router, planing and sanding to the line, prefitting, knocking off a few more spots, I seem to be
ending up still with 1/32" gap . Using spreader clamps, am sure that can be closed up some, but am stopping to
just find out what others accepted .

Thanks

Fred

[billy c]

you can tape the unglued strake to the hull in a few areas and run a piece of sandpaper thru the joint and find the high spots.
... or be consistent and keep the same gap you already have throughout.
coming along great!
-Billy