Matt's Geronimo

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

Hercdrvr
Posts: 608
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Feb 28, 2018 2:37 pm

Those floor boards look nice and I like your table saw setup too. Does the plywood laminate really stiffen them up? My Malahini floor got heavy using 4/4 Ash but anything less than 3/4” was bouncy.
Referring back to our dash discussion, good idea on a shinny grab handle on passenger side.
Matt B

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:12 pm

Matt, those will be the supports for eventual plywood floor and will be notched into the frames. They are definitely stiffer. What I don't know is if they are stiffer than an equivalent thickness of hardwood. It is a lot simpler than some kind of webbing down to the battens.

Here is a question for you Matt. What did you use for your hatch pulls/latches?

Hercdrvr
Posts: 608
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:32 pm

I used basic barrel type latches and these fancy hinges that allow an arched hatch to open without binding. They work well but can pop out of the socket if you open the hatch abruptly. I need to add a second lift cylinder because a cylinder on only one side tries to twist the hatch and throws off the clarences.

I also have some hatch trim to install before summer too.
Matt B
Attachments
E8B902CA-4AA0-4CC7-8476-02741DAD3240.jpeg
6A59D49B-9EC0-431D-8B66-41E8046691AB.jpeg
See the slot in the cross deck beam for the latch
9716625D-6885-4DEB-9A4A-5FC64C596308.jpeg

Hercdrvr
Posts: 608
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Feb 28, 2018 7:36 pm

I used a router to hog out the wood for the hinges. I had a death grip on that thing.
Attachments
85127DD6-57A2-46AC-BD70-6254BBFA90D8.jpeg

JimmY
Posts: 662
Joined: Sat Jul 30, 2016 11:08 am
Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby JimmY » Fri Mar 02, 2018 8:00 pm

+1 on those hinges. They look good, but can pop out and are pricey. I was able to cut my deck boards to fit around them before installing them.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Sun Mar 04, 2018 7:38 pm

I don't have any picture updates but I was looking at the Glen-L modifying the motorwell page. There are a few things that are beefed up there compared to the plans for the Geronimo so I am going to do the upgrades. One thing it shows is a 2x4 and two 2x2s. I did not have anything like that without gluing something together. I found a retired Purdue prof. that sells white oak for $2 a board foot. The downside is it's all rough sawn. Well, I grabbed a piece of 8/4 from him and cut the lengths I needed from that. Then I jointed the pieces with my no5 Stanley and ran them through the table saw and was able to get nearly perfect pieces for my motorwell. I wouldn't want to do a lot of boards that way but it saved a lot longer drive and a bit of cash as well. Plus the guy literally wrote the book on producing lumber with thin kerf bandsaw mills so it was fun to talk to the guy.

Here's his website: http://www.cassenslumber.com/

http://www.glen-l.com/modifying-the-mot ... all-boats/

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Tue Mar 06, 2018 11:46 am

Anyone who has seen this joint in my pictures and thought it was a good idea, it is not. The offcut from this joint easily broke right at the glue line. So I am backing it up with a plywood gusset. It did serve the purpose of quickly adding the length I needed to both carlings and they are not hugely important to structure so I feel okay about it. Especially since the coaming will completely cover it up anyway.
IMG_20180306_133002044.jpg

Shaunh
Posts: 37
Joined: Sat Dec 30, 2017 1:04 am
Location: Cooma, Australia
Contact:

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Shaunh » Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:25 pm

Hi Matt

Even on a mitre like that the joint is essentially end grain to end grain. Without a tongue of some sort it will always be weak, regardless of glue used. Gussets a good idea here. My go to joint for a quick option here would be a domino. If you don't have such a tool then a half lap or bridle joint can work really well but a lot of extra work. Fortunately the offcut broke on you and not the job so all is good.
Cheers
Shaun

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:52 am

I checked off something I should have done long ago, cutting out the transom for the motorwell. Parts for the motorwell are coming along. I'm also going to add a layer of 3/8" ply to the inside of the motorwell.
IMG_20180307_093308276.jpg

PeterG
Posts: 542
Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2007 7:08 am
Location: Connecticut

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby PeterG » Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:21 am

Matt that looks great, this will be interesting to see the progress. I looked at the transom mod in your link, I remember this was included with the Malahini plans when I got them. It appears to be an option offered for open boat designs where someone can add the self-bailing well. My Malahini plans have basically the same design but without using the 2 x 2 stock at the transom. This will work great for your Geronimo, provides good reinforcement for the transom. Glad to see you're making progress on your boat, keep up the great work!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Wed Mar 07, 2018 8:47 am

Thanks, Peter. It seems like a prudent upgrade given the weight of modern outboards.

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11077
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:08 am

Matt

Be sure and locate your engine mounting holes before you finish framing out. It would be a real PITA to fix later.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Hercdrvr
Posts: 608
Joined: Mon May 11, 2015 12:52 pm
Location: McKinney TX

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:04 am

The Glen L motorwell plans call for a 2x4 arthwardship, I used a 1x4 white oak member instead. This decreased my “no hole” zone on the transom when mounting the engine. Motorwell is a very stout box, remember last summer I tried to rip my transom off when the dive ladder yanked out of the transom?
Matt

User avatar
hoodman
Posts: 1797
Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby hoodman » Wed Mar 07, 2018 11:50 am

It seems that the mounting holes are standardized now? If so it looks like they are two inches from top of cutout and ten inches. If that's true I'm fine. The way I'm building it I'll have room for bolts until 4 1/2" down from the top then wood until 6 5/8" down. So even if the motor has to be shimmed up a little I should be good to go.

User avatar
Bill Edmundson
Posts: 11077
Joined: Wed Nov 23, 2005 6:45 am
Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
Contact:

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Mar 07, 2018 12:13 pm

Matt

2" & 10" sounds right. Sometimes I post for other people to think about it also.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build


Return to “Power Boats”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests