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Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:26 pm
by bobinpowayca
Hi Matt, I just finished the "floor" in my Geronimo. It's all 9mm okoume and I knew there could be a lot of flex. Under all of the decking except the part over the bilge I did pour-in-place foam so those areas are solid - I used white oak for the battens but made them all a little wider, eg 3" vs 2 1/2" for the 1x3's. Also tried to bevel the floorboards to meet the hull sides and glued them then filled the gaps with fairing compound. That'll make it easier to keep clean, just swab the deck. The forward floorboard is screwed down but not glued, and the after board I may not screw down since I'll be taking on and off regularly.
In the picture you can see I just laminated on another 3/8 piece of ply on the sections between the battens - this makes the floor solid (no flex) and the added weight makes it lay down nicely. I'm thinking of putting down some kind of roll-down mat on the floor so I may not even have to put any screws on this piece.
I painted the floors with three coats of Interlux Bilgekote - it's a very hard finish. Bob

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 10:57 am
by froberts
Bob, your boat is amazing.

I love how simple and clean you've kept everything. Does the bilgekote covered floor get slippery when it gets wet?

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:09 am
by Bill Edmundson
Fraser

Just add a spoonful of clean sand to the paint. Instant non-skid.

Bill

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:16 am
by DrBryanJ
Looking really nice Bob.

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:23 am
by bobinpowayca
Yep, the deck's now slicker than two eels in a bucket full of snot! But I plan on putting down a cushy rubber mat of some sort that I can roll up. The idea of the smooth deck is so I can keep it clean with a damp mop.
Matt I attached a picture of how I reinforced the transom (which is 3/4 ply). I framed it out with 3" x 1 1/2" white oak, used same material for the cross brace that sits on the knee. I sandwiched on another 3/4 ply piece, laminating a 3/8 piece between them. This gives me 1 7/8" thickness for the part of the transom where the motor mounts. Also ran the oak along the top sides of the transom which makes the landing for the decking. Bob

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:33 am
by hoodman
Thanks, Bob, that's really helpful. I'm looking at doing something similar to take the flex out of the floor. I don't have enough 3/8" Okoume to do the decking and the flooring. So I'm planning to buy some 1/2" fir marine ply from Menards to do the flooring. I'm also planning at least one large hatch in the middle of the floor similar to yours. I would suggest that you find some way to latch yours down as it could get sucked out of the back of your boat by air pressure at highway speeds.

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Thu Mar 08, 2018 11:46 am
by hoodman
Oh, Bill, thanks for looking out for me on the outboard mounting holes. That's part of the reason I post here is so you guys can double check me.

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:35 pm
by hoodman
Motorwell parts are coming together. Just dry fitting everything right now. I'm going to have to drill and screw through my nicely fiberglassed transom now.
IMG_20180309_172238838.jpg

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 3:39 pm
by hoodman
Bob, if you're out there, how deep is your motorwell? In other words what is the required tilt-up clearance for the etec-90? I looked really deep and I couldn't find the info anywhere. The Glen-L motorwell page suggests 25" for "well depth."

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 4:18 pm
by Hercdrvr
Matt,
It really comes down to how far you want to be able to tilt the motor. I made my motor well smaller than the Glen L plan. I’ve never had a need to tilt the motor anywhere near full up. It will do it though. The thing is dang near parallel to the ground in the full up position.
I don’t have the boat here to measure but I will get the demensions for you. I divided up the space from transom to frame #1 to make room for the hatch and motor well. I let pleasing to the eye be my guide along with the motor well plans.
Matt B

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 4:42 pm
by Bill Edmundson
Matt and others,

Yamaha 4 strokes say to trailer the engine in the down position. So, check your owners manual.

Bill

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 5:42 pm
by hoodman
Yeah it probably doesn't ever really need to be tilted all the way up.

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 8:35 pm
by bobinpowayca
Hi Matt, I measured my motorbox, measured on the bottom from the transom forward it's 26" long (i.e., "deep"); measured from side to side the box is 39" wide.
I didn't plan ahead properly for the motor box dimensions, I think I made it at least or more than the dimensions given in the glen-l notepage. However, I wish I had done a little more research because there is way more than enough room for the etec90 when it's tilted all the way forward or turned left to right. I say that because I could only fit in a 14 gallon fuel tank, I could have made the box a little narrower and fitted a 20 gallon tank.
I also, in hindsight, would not have cut the big holes in the bulkhead in front of the batteries and fuel tank - I was thinking I would be needing to access them thru the bulkhead - but now I have made two hatches over each side so I don't need the holes in the bulkhead. Bob

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:13 pm
by DrBryanJ
Matt: go to evinrude.com click shopping tools/online store then click parts then select year then choose hp then model then profile drawing. The info is there, but evinrude really hides it.

Re: Matt's Geronimo

Posted: Fri Mar 09, 2018 9:49 pm
by hoodman
Man, Bryan, I have looked all over that site multiple times. Thanks!