Aussie Gentry

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Wed May 04, 2016 12:51 am

G/Day glad the pics helped Doug, well started to bore the shaft hole wow takes some pushing but going ok hit 1 s/s screw didn't worry the bit to much just me when the drill wanted to wind me up, anyway broke through the keel and dead center but hit a big s/s screw this one stuffed the bit, so i will get underneath tomorrow and chisel around and grind the screw out then complete the hole ......John
IMG_6353.jpg

IMG_6352.jpg

IMG_6351.jpg

User avatar
mrintense
Posts: 2516
Joined: Thu Jun 10, 2010 11:22 am
Location: Austin, Texas
Contact:

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby mrintense » Wed May 04, 2016 5:20 am

Nice work on the clamps John. I cheaped out and bought Harbor Freight clamps, but they only lasted just long enough to do the job. They're pretty much useless now. Congratulations on boring the prop shaft hole. I can just imagine how nerve racking that must be.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Thu May 05, 2016 10:47 pm

G/Day well i am through hit a s/s screw in the hog so looked at it through my bore-scope then went under and used my Dremel to grind it out all went well also had to resharpen the bit, pushed though the frame as well just a bit of cleaning up now for a wine or 3 ...John
IMG_6361.jpg

IMG_6356.jpg

IMG_6355.jpg

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Thu May 05, 2016 10:53 pm

G/Day need some help here i need to pane or true the edge of the bottom ply so as the first plank of Mahogany buts up nice any suggestions...John
IMG_6360.jpg

IMG_6359.jpg

User avatar
jenko
Posts: 811
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:50 am
Location: Pine Mountain . Vic . Australia
Contact:

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby jenko » Thu May 05, 2016 11:31 pm

I would rough cut the board and then temp fix it and trim with router and jig, there is a post about it some where ,then refit closer and finish with sand paper.
Then where it meets the bottom I would be finishing it flush with the sides so that it over laps the bottom when done you can finish it flush with the bottom .Probably much the same as you did with the previous layer.
found some reference to it,
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17090&p=171162&hilit=router+trim+jig#p171162

viewtopic.php?f=15&t=16001&p=120124&hilit=router+trim+jig#p120124

slug
Posts: 1441
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:49 am
Location: Colborne ON Can

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby slug » Fri May 06, 2016 5:09 am

John; There is a way of doing this that works very well and I use all the time. It's called "spiling" and I'll attempt to explain it.

First, you cut a piece of heavy cardboard (your ply suppliers should have lots of large sheets used for "cover sheets" when shipping) to a shape that fits the hole.

Next, make a small marking stick out of thin wood (1/8" or 3mm) It should be 1" wide and about 5" long. Length can be adjusted to suit but that's a good start. Then sharpen one end to a point like an arrow head. The other end remains square. Mark one side as the top.

Temporarily fasten your dummy piece in place in the "hole"

Using your new spiling stick, place it on the dummy with the point resting exactly against the spot where you want the finished ply to be cut. Holding it firmly in that place (about 90 degrees to the edge) use a sharp pencil and mark the cardboard ALL the way around the stick. Continue this process about every 4" around the opening. Obviously the more markings the more accurate.

Next, remove your dummy and lay it over your blank piece of fresh ply.

Take your stick, set it on the previous pencil outlines and now place a pencil mark at the POINT of the stick on your ply. Do this with all your marks.

Voila! Now you join the lines with a batten as a guide, and you have your cut line! Cut a little over and dress to fit with a plane or heavy sandpaper .( I find a piece of 80 grit belt cloth on a block works well for this)

Go through this process on a simple fitting exercise and you will quickly grasp the method, and once you do, it will become invaluable in fitting all kinds of pieces. I'm constantly making sticks as they seem to disappear often....I think somebody steals them :roll:

Good luck; Doug

slug
Posts: 1441
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:49 am
Location: Colborne ON Can

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby slug » Fri May 06, 2016 6:47 am

Here's some photos to illustrate, I hope> the spiling method.

Assuming I want to fit a panel around the cowl, I first tape my dummy pattern roughly in place. Then I use the stick to mark as many locations as I need with the point of the stick where I want the panel to fit.

Next I tape the pattern to the blank ply and place the stick on the lines and put an X at the point on the ply.

Joint the points, cut a little oversize and trim.

Doug

slug
Posts: 1441
Joined: Sat Sep 22, 2007 9:49 am
Location: Colborne ON Can

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby slug » Fri May 06, 2016 6:57 am

John: Here are some pics to show the method.
Doug
Attachments
DSCN1046.JPG
DSCN1047.JPG
DSCN1046.JPG

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Tue May 10, 2016 12:52 am

G/Day thanks Doug that good, ok i have had to make a decision on the finishing hull timber, the Sapelle at 6 mm is to dense and very heavy and will not concave very well, so made a change, i am going to Canberra to have a look and buy some New Guinea Rosewood has the same type of look as Sapelle and is very available and very cost effective keep you updated .....John

Tony Hain
Posts: 299
Joined: Fri Aug 26, 2011 3:01 pm
Location: Queensland Australia

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby Tony Hain » Tue May 10, 2016 12:25 pm

John
I used sapelle at 4 mm for the final layer and had no difficulty with it bending to the contours of my Tahoe.
Tony Hain
"Never under-estimate the bounds of human stupidity" (Robert Heinlein)
and on a more optimistic note "nor the capacity for human brilliance"

Cribbsy
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:21 am
Location: Perth, Australia

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby Cribbsy » Wed May 11, 2016 3:30 am

Hi John, just wondering what timber you used for your frames?. Looking great!

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Thu May 12, 2016 3:22 am

G/Day i used a timber call Meranti easy available and cost effective but must be sealed when completed ....John

User avatar
jenko
Posts: 811
Joined: Sat Mar 19, 2011 2:50 am
Location: Pine Mountain . Vic . Australia
Contact:

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby jenko » Thu May 12, 2016 5:41 am

Also used Meranti/Philippine mahogany milled to 4mm no trouble

Cribbsy
Posts: 35
Joined: Thu Apr 28, 2016 3:21 am
Location: Perth, Australia

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby Cribbsy » Sat May 14, 2016 8:01 am

Thanks John, looking great

John R
Posts: 116
Joined: Wed Feb 11, 2015 3:04 pm

Re: Aussie Gentry

Postby John R » Sat May 14, 2016 7:47 pm

G/Day well i machined some large planks of New Guinea Rosewood machines great and then started to strip the plank into 6mm thick by 75mm planks i got 12 out of the large plank ........ John
IMG_6388.jpg

IMG_6387.jpg

IMG_6386.jpg


Return to “Power Boats”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: steveh41 and 14 guests