Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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FFguy08
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Sat Dec 03, 2016 11:27 am

Thanks Brad! Agreed, always nice to meet other public safety folks, we are a close knit group (family!) no matter where we hale from! Even more so when we share additional common interests (boat building)! My family is largely public safety as well, although I'm the only one crazy enough to go fire service! lol! If you are ever up in the Indy area, hit me up... I'll hook you up with dinner and drinks!
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23

FFguy08
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Sat Dec 03, 2016 12:09 pm

Ok, brothers and sisters in boat building! How about an update!
So, on December 8th I'll be 1 year post shoulder repair surgery! I tore my left shoulder rotator cuff and labrum at work, ugh! Needless to say, its been a long year of recovery and physical therapy! I've been through this before with my right shoulder. However, I was much younger and recovery to full strength was much faster than this time around. I'm actually still working on strength recovery to pre injury! So, it's with much humility, happiness, and satisfaction that I put this out there and maybe encourage others!!

swim exit.jpg
Exiting Tempe Town Lake after completing the 2.4 mile swim. A time of 1 hour and 7 minutes... This was my area of most concern considering the amount of surgical repair my shoulder needed and the rotation required of my shoulder during the swim!

the bike.JPG
For the record, Arizona is not flat... Contrary to what people think! lol!

finish line.JPG
finished strong! Still upright and running (jogging!)!


Yeah, I completed an Ironman! This is a 3 sport race combining swimming 2.4 miles, biking 112 miles, and running 26.2 miles for a total of 140.6 miles traveled under your own power in less than 17 hours. This was the most grueling day of my life! Filled with highs and lows but ultimately persevering and earning my Ironman title! What a day, what a year!

So, don't let anything in life deter you from your goals! Go out there and Do Epic Shit!

Now I have time to build a boat! :D 8)

Shane, Ironman 2016!
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23

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vupilot
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Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby vupilot » Sun Dec 04, 2016 9:08 am

Thats amazing Shane!

Well, I guess you should have energy to spare toward boat building now. A day of hand sanding should be a cake walk on that shoulder.

Brad Tucker
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Brad Tucker » Sun Dec 04, 2016 12:20 pm

Awesome!!!! One of my flight nurse partner's husband was there! He cramped up and couldn't finsh, and was devastated. With all the training he has done, I couldn't imagine how he felt. You guys are awesome. I'll hike all day, but IM would KILL me! I'm glad you're recovering well; now get back to building! :mrgreen:

FFguy08
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Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Fri May 12, 2017 6:25 am

Hey everyone! Quick question... I need to acquire a face vice for my work bench and want something bolt on... been looking online at options and I prefer something bigger in the 9-10" range... What are some thoughts/preferences between the Wilton, Eclipse, and/or Yost brands? Should I stay away from any for quality/reliability reasons? Thanks in advance for any input! Shane.
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23

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Roberta
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Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Roberta » Fri May 12, 2017 6:59 am

I like Wilton vises. They have a really nice wood working vise that opens up to 10" with very flat jaws for holding wood.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

FFguy08
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Sat May 13, 2017 5:40 am

Thank you Roberta! Based on what I've read about them, they are very heavy duty and function perfectly! Always helpful getting input from someone and their experience with a product before the money is spent!
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23

FFguy08
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:21 am

Ok, so boat build shop preparation continues!... I'm currently working on my workbench, building it out of oak... I have a question on sealers. I want to use this bench as a nice flat surface to hand plane at, do handsaw work, glue ups, finishing, etc... I'd like to seal it, and give it a finish, with something that prevents glue (maybe epoxy if even possible) from sticking to it. I've heard of a product called waterlox which glue dries and then brushes right off? Based on everyone's experience, is this good information? Or is there another product that will meet those needs and maybe work better? Thanks in advance for any input!
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23

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Jimbob
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Location: Sacramento, CA

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Jimbob » Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:28 am

On my workbench, I coated it with poly urethane. Works just fine. Glue and epoxy come off with a scraper. When I am working with epoxy, I always use wax paper where it might contact my work surface.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Sacramento, CA

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Jul 07, 2017 8:57 am

Shane

You might just go to the Big Box Store and get a roll of heavy polyethylene and put it on with push pins. When it gets messed up, throw it away and get another sheet.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

ToddM
Posts: 88
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Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby ToddM » Fri Jul 07, 2017 1:30 pm

FFguy08 wrote:Ok, so boat build shop preparation continues!... I'm currently working on my workbench, building it out of oak... I have a question on sealers. I want to use this bench as a nice flat surface to hand plane at, do handsaw work, glue ups, finishing, etc... I'd like to seal it, and give it a finish, with something that prevents glue (maybe epoxy if even possible) from sticking to it. I've heard of a product called waterlox which glue dries and then brushes right off? Based on everyone's experience, is this good information? Or is there another product that will meet those needs and maybe work better? Thanks in advance for any input!


Consider no finish on your benchtop? Mine gets glue, paint, chain oil, Dr. Pepper, blood, etc. on it and I just wipe it off. I prefer no finish because I flatten it from time to time. And I like the friction the bare top provides.

Brad Tucker
Posts: 284
Joined: Tue Jun 29, 2010 7:20 am
Location: Washington, GA

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Brad Tucker » Fri Jul 07, 2017 4:20 pm

My benchtop is a 4x8 sheet of 3/4" plywood. I just used a paint scraper and occasionally zapped it with a belt sander when needed. You will end up skinning it up, screwing things to it, getting all kinds of stuff on it, so there was little need for me to care about much more than flat and sturdy. Now, if I had to do it again, I would consider putting a 1/4" raised lip around it, and fill the field with 1/4" masonite (that stuff they make pegboard out of). If it got all nasty, you could just pull it and replace it.

TomB
Posts: 95
Joined: Wed Jan 18, 2017 4:07 pm
Location: Holland, MI

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby TomB » Sat Jul 08, 2017 7:37 am

Hi Shane,

I built a very heavy stationary bench with a side vise (Jorgensen 4x10) for hand tool work. I made it heavy so it would not skid around when I am working on something. It has a ¼” coated hardboard insert. It also has screw inserts in the top for a machine vise that is occasionally needed. I throw another sheet of cut to size ¼” coated hardboard on when I am concerned about making a mess. Several coats of non-silicon wax protect the wood parts from the occasional spills.

Broken down boxes are my go-to bench top when servicing the chain saw. Sharp edges, wood chips, gas and oil all stay on the flattened box long enough to make it to the trash without trashing the bench.

Since the stationary bench is such a beast to move, I built my second bench using 3” locking casters. It is used as an out-feed table for the saws and when set next to the stationary bench give me a really long bench. It has a coated particle board top. The white coating for particle board and hardboard reflects the light and makes the shop brighter. Yellow glue and epoxy drips pop right off.

I taped the boat pattern to a sheet of plywood and stand it against the wall for reference and put it on a bench when needed flat. So far so good, there are a few tears, holes, and scuffs. Next time I will follow the advice of others to transfer the pattern to a sheet of plywood using permanent markers. For your Tahoe, I would transfer the template shifted to one side as much as possible so I could also template the other side of the centerline. Screwing it to your bench would make a nice top.

I went to the big box store for a roll of the thin plastic sheeting that painters use. It is cheap on a per use basis. I tape a piece over the template or the bench and epoxy away. Afterwards, it goes in the trash with the cured epoxy drips. I also use a roll of the heavy brown paper that painters use to protect floors (thinner than RamBoard). It gets taped to the bench or floor. I have it taped the floor below the boat frame. It is great for marking locations below the boat, catching epoxy drips and is surprisingly durable.

How's that for answering questions that weren't asked. :D :D :D :D

Tom

Adrock1
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Location: Greenville SC

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby Adrock1 » Mon Jul 10, 2017 5:41 am

My work bench top is a four inch thick slab of solid southern yellow pine. I gave a couple good coats of linseed oil and let it dry out for about a week. Then gave the top a coat of Johnson's paste wax. The wax allows glue drips to pop off pretty easily. You'll need to freshen up the coat of wax every now and then.

FFguy08
Posts: 64
Joined: Tue Sep 22, 2015 2:18 pm
Location: Greenwood, Indiana

Re: Project *OverKill* Tahoe 23

Postby FFguy08 » Wed Jul 12, 2017 9:06 am

Thanks for the replies! I probably am over thinking this a bit! Simply sealing the wood so it looks nice then just covering it with paper or plastic when doing staining, glue ups, finishing would be just fine and no doubt less of a worry or a headache! Although, I hadn't heard of the wax option!! In any event, I need to seal it up with something and button up this project! Thanks again for the input everyone!
Shane 8)
Greenwood, Indiana

He who has the most toys, wins!
ZL1 = CharliZe
Tahoe 23 = OverKill (under construction), Blog www.facebook.com/projectOverKillTahoe23


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