New Malahini Build "Finally"

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Jan 18, 2016 5:32 pm

You will also notice that I beveled the cuts for the battens the wrong direction as well. I put painters tape over each notch, mixed up epoxy and some of my mahogany sawdust and filled them to level them out. I did this on Friday. Now I can just gut this new and extremely hard surface to the right angle to accept the battens when I place them.
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

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rbrandenstein
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby rbrandenstein » Tue Jan 19, 2016 7:41 am

Hey, stuff happens. Your build ups should be fine. My router bit slipped deeper when I was cutting for the battens in the frames and had to fill a few with epoxy.
You might go with a 1/4" longer screw than specified to ensure you get good thread contact into the frame.
Looking good.
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Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
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hoodman
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby hoodman » Tue Jan 19, 2016 4:06 pm

You can also epoxy a wooden wedge in there.

zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Sat Jan 23, 2016 7:08 am

Decided to go with the filet at the panel transom joint when I flip the boat. I got the stem glued and screwed into position yesterday. I also have both chines temporarily screwed into position with one screw in each frame just to check fit and determine how the bend will work out. Today I plan to put the bolts in the stem and transom knee. At that point it is all chines and sheers for a few days. I also stopped by Harbor Freight yesterday and picked up a power planer for $30 bucks. I have heard good reviews and if I am careful and go slow it should save me numerous man hours. I have 15 inches of snow in my drive now and the hardest stuff comes today and tonight. The good news is I am building in my basement so I get uninterrupted boat time at least until Monday.
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

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vupilot
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby vupilot » Sun Jan 24, 2016 7:18 pm

Just be careful with the power planer where you transition to the plywood parts. Like planning the chine or sheer near the transom. I took a chunk of ply off my transom edge that way. Ooops :shock: Lesson learned, easy fix. I really like the HF power planer, cant imagine fairing without it.

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hoodman
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby hoodman » Mon Jan 25, 2016 9:09 am

I've done all my fairing so far with a hand plane. I didn't know the Harbor Freight power planer was any good or I probably would have given it a shot. For $30 seems like it would be worth a try at least. Oh well, at least I didn't need ear protection.

zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:47 am

Got a lot done in the last two weeks. I have discovered that I love this boat building and my wife thinks I am nuts because I am dreaming about the "True Grit". How cool would that be?

Got the chines and sheers on by wrapping tightly in towels and then soaking the towels in boiling water at about 10 minute intervals for about 45 mins to an hour. Still took considerable effort but I got them on. I used a ratchet strap and pulled them together so that I had even pressure on both sides and little chance of pressuring the stem to one side.
steaming.jpg
steaming method


I have also been fairing the bottom and will begin fairing the sides today. I have only had two small issues so far and I think I can work through one pretty easily but would value a few comments on the sheer issue. One sheer at the stem attachment point begin to crack. I very quickly bent the second lamination into place and attached it. I also then decided to put an additional backing piece on each side of the sheer (equal weight, equal look, couldn't hurt). However, there is still a slight bump on the right side of the sheer right where it meets the sheer blocking. I think it will fair out as the process goes along. The stem is still in perfect alignment and everything else looks good. I think I will be OK on this. Pic attached.

slight bump.jpg
slight bump
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:48 am

The second small issue is that I sight along the right and left side (port and starboard confuses me when the boat is upside down) the left sheer looks like it goes very flat or in a straight line between frames 4 and 2 especially at frame 3. I have doubled checked the frame and it is still in good alignment and measurements look good. I thought I might have notched that frame to deep but you can see in the photos that they appear to be the same depth. Will this be noticeable with the planking applied? Will it make it stand out? Is it worth building up the sheer a little and then fairing for a little better curve? and lastly, If I do this, will the planking lay properly against frame 3 or does a gap matter? (I could always fill later, thinking out loud!)

right side.jpg
right side, good curve


left side.jpg
left side, goes flat a little
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 6:51 am

And as long as I am asking for assistance. When I go to apply the planking and I plan to do the sides first. Which piece overlaps the other. Am I aiming for a bevel along the chine or should the end grain of which piece be showing? Along the transom I had been thinking I would cover the transom and then let the side planking overlap or cover the end grain of the transom planking. Does this seem like the norm or a good plan?

I was thinking of doing veneer but now I am thinking the natural look on the planking will suffice and really speed up the process. Still not 100% but leaning toward the bright side finish of planking.
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

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rbrandenstein
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby rbrandenstein » Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:14 am

Zip001,
If you back braced the sheer, you should be able to fair it out. I would make a cardboard template of the good side and then fair to match. An angle grinder with sanding pad and 50 grit will work well for that.
If all your measurements are correct, I can't explain the differences in the sheer. There is a difference but it may not be noticeable when finished. If it bothers you (it would probably bother me) you could glue some material to the outside of the sheer and frame 3 and then fair them to a matching curve.
Regarding plywood overlap. The bottom planking overlaps the side planking everywhere except at the transition point along the chine just forward of frame 4. At this transition point, the plywood goes from an overlap to a butt joint. I believe this is covered in the Building with Plywood book.
The exact transition point is up to you.
IMG_0562.JPG

Here is a closeup of mine. You can see the butt joint going forward. The planking that overlaps has not been trimmed yet. Remember, this will be covered with bottom paint.
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Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
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gdcarpenter
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby gdcarpenter » Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:35 am

If you are putting a 'pretty' layer of marine ply on the back of your transom, AFTER you install the bolts for the transom knee(s), then whether the transom ply overlaps the side ply or the side ply overlaps the transom ply, well, that is a 'Chicken or Egg' question. Most seem to run the side ply long at the back for ease of installation. I assume that is why many add transom bands, to hide the end grain. I rabbeted my transom edges so the hull ply died into the transom so no end grain was exposed.

As to the sheers, I suspect that as you progress with the fairing you will answer your own question. Looking Good.

It is possible, albeit tricky, to butt the side and bottom ply along the total length of the chine. If your water line will follow the chine line then the overlap end grain will be painted and it won't matter. If going with a 'true' water line that would show.
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

zip001
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 8:48 am

Thanks to both of you. I stopped and read a bit (the instructions) and it did say bottom overlaps the side until the transition point you mentioned. I guess I just never saw that when I read it before. The cardboard template is an excellent idea. If I don't know for sure that it is an optical illusion then it will bother me. The template will let me know for sure and I can go from there.
When either of you glued (epoxied) your side panels on did you only glue where the screw will attach. In other words chine and sheer line. I know you don't put screws into each frame member for the vertical portion of the side frame but did you guys use epoxy to glue to the areas where it does lay flat. I have read where other might have had a small gap that they dealt with later. No issue I assume.

By the way, it's another snow day (boat day) here so I appreciate your responses. It keeps me going.

GD I do remember your side panels and your transom now. My wife and I visited and looked at your boat. I remember you did the one solid piece transom. Very nice.

Thanks
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

gdcarpenter
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby gdcarpenter » Mon Feb 15, 2016 9:19 am

I did epoxy my hull ply to the frames, as I understand it that's fine, but screwing the ply to the frames is not recommended. 'Weather Event' here in Raleigh too, roads like skating rinks.

Remember: "If all else fails - read the instructions" :)

The transition joint is kind of hard to visualize. Once you get to it things should fall into place and make more sense, because everything is easy once you know how!

Are you still planning on going with full length scarfed panels?

As to putting 'faux' planking on top of the ply, I guess it's an personal esthetic decision. I wonder if the "layering" creates the possibility of water getting trapped between the two layers, and it does add weight.

We well remember your visit, y'all felt like family, even if you decided not to build a ZIP!
This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com

zip001
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA

Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby zip001 » Mon Feb 15, 2016 10:51 am

Yep! my plan is to cut and scarf full length panels. Not sure if you remember but you gave me the jig you used to scarf yours. I have had it hanging in the garage all this time waiting to make use of it. I am not too far away now. I think I can get all the fairing done up to frame 4 today maybe even the sides but the bottom for sure.

I will then slow down so that I can visualize the stem area a little better as I fair that area. The rest of the boat hasn't been bad at all. Harbor Freight power planer, belt sander, and just go slow.

Perhaps this weekend I will be able to make by scarf joints.

This will not be my last boat build. I have built two kayaks from a kit and now working on this boat. I am hooked. I think I will just piddle and build boats in retirement. Just four more years.
We sleep peacefully in our beds at night because rough men stand ready in the night to visit harm on those who would wish us evil.

gdcarpenter
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Re: New Malahini Build "Finally"

Postby gdcarpenter » Mon Feb 15, 2016 11:18 am

Just thought I would add a few shots of that scarfing jig in use. I had my venerable Porter Cable router attached to the sliding patten and a 3/4" straight/flat bottomed router bit. In case you are wondering what the 'box' on the end is for, I connected my shop vac to the 'box' to help hold the edge of the ply flat.

The C Clamps are my low tech 'stops'.

The set up is a bit finicky so be sure to do test pieces first. I still wound up block sanding the scarfed edge a bit to make it a bit 'truer'. I will send you my phone number in a PM if you have any questions.
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This is my first, last and only boat build.

http://www.gdzipbuild.blogspot.com


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