Overniter in SC: Flipped 5-27-17

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby DrBryanJ » Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:57 am

Bill, that's interesting. On the link listed above it says xynole swells when applied and will take as much epoxy to fill the weave as 10 oz fiberglass.
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Jul 08, 2016 11:12 am

Bryan

Maybe I'm thinking Dynel. The wet out may take more. But, the fill coats take less.

OOPS! Dynel is right. I know I got it from JD. and that is what they sell. It does swell some. It is not great to work with. But, it's tough!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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dmac
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby dmac » Sat Jul 09, 2016 10:18 am

FWIW - Here's what one Glen L builder (of a Flying Saucer) did to address the same issue:


"Boat is glassed. I used 17 oz. bi-axial glass on the bottom for abrasion resistance. The boat will be run up on gravel and sand quite frequently. I did the bottom in two sheets of glass overlapped 8 inches along the keel and lapped the chines about 4 inches. The sides are 7 1/2 oz glass, also overlapping the chine 4 inches. I used peel ply so sanding is eliminated except for small imperfections and I won't have to fill the weave with epoxy as the peel ply takes care of that."

Good luck with your build!

Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sun Jul 10, 2016 4:31 pm

Well after a lot more reading and research I think I've settled on a plan. I'm going to go with the fairly standard practice of a single layer of fiberglass covering the entire hull with overlaps at the chines and keel so it's doubly thick at those locations. I think I'm just going to go with a heavier cloth like 10 or 12 oz. Then I'm going to put the spray rails and keel strip on after glassing. The keel strip in particular is fairly wide and flat so I'll radius the edge slightly and put a strip of Dynel or xynole over the keel strip to help protect it for beaching.

So has anyone used 10 or 12 oz woven fiberglass cloth? Other than needing more epoxy to wet out does it behave any different than the lighter cloths? Can anyone recommend a source? I don't think Glen L carries it.

My next question is in regards to applying it. I watched the DVD and have the glen-l fiberglass book but it wasn't clear to me how to do this. Each side of the boat will be done in two pieces. Do I apply the bottom piece lapping over the chine, then feather the edge with a sander after it cures and then apply the side piece overlapping the chine again?

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hoodman
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby hoodman » Mon Jul 11, 2016 7:47 am

Adrock1 wrote:Do I apply the bottom piece lapping over the chine, then feather the edge with a sander after it cures and then apply the side piece overlapping the chine again?


That's what I interpreted from the DVD.

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gap998
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby gap998 » Sat Sep 24, 2016 4:48 pm

How's the build coming along?
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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sat Sep 24, 2016 5:45 pm

gap998 wrote:How's the build coming along?


Pretty well. I guess I'm due for an update lol. Anyway since my last update I've completed the fiberglassing, the keel strip and as you'll see I got the first spray rail on today.

For the fiberglass I did a combination of 10oz glass and a layer of xynole. I wanted the bottom in particular to be as bulletproof as possible. I anticipate beaching the boat frequently and wanted the bottom as tough as possible. So what I did was apply a layer of 10oz glass to the entire hull. Then I installed the keel strip. Then I put a layer of xynole covering the bottom panels and the keel strip all the way up to the bow. My research shows that the xynole is very similar to Dynel and is extremely abrasion resistant so it should really protect the keel strip and bottom panels really well.

In hindsight I should have just done xynole only on the entire hull. After seeing how thick it is and how much resin it soaks up I'm confident it would be very very tough all by itself. I also found it very easy and forgiving to work with. It can wrap around a really tight radius easily. And it drapes and conforms to the hull really well. The only catch is it will float on the resin if you puddle it on to heavy. I found that spreading the resin exclusively with a squeegee instead of a roller eliminates that issue though. Anyway for any potential or future builders out there I highly recommend it if you plan to paint. Obviously it's no good for bright hulls.

Anyway I got the weave all filled up with resin and sanded everything down and now I'm working on the spray rails. As you can see I have the first side mounted. I'll get the other side tomorrow.

Next step will be putting some nice fillets on the spray rails and getting them faired in. I also need to go ahead and sharpen up the rounded edges on the transom. Then fairing priming and paint.

For paint right now I'm torn between supermarine or interlux. They are the only two I have found that offer a paint rated for long term immersion. This boat may do stretches of a week or more in the water and I'm just not willing to put topside paint on the bottom. After a ton of searching I've found two options for a bottom paint rated for long term immersion that are not biocide or ablative paints. The first is interlux VC performance epoxy. The other is supermarine ironsides.

The Iinterlux VC is available only in white so I would only carry that up to the waterline. I would have to do the topsides with brightsides or perfection because I want a dark navy blue color. The benefit of going interlux is that those products are very popular and well proven to provide good results. The draw back is the need to precisely mask off and identify the waterline and make the transition between the VC and the Perfection.

If I do the supermarine paint I can just put the 2-pack ironsides on the whole thing. No need to find the waterline and make a transition between two different paints. Downside is there isn't a lot of info or experience with this stuff so there is some risk. There are some folks who report good results though so im considering it.

In fact I'm leaning towards the supermarine right now cuz it looks like I'm only going to paint the bottom before the flip. I need to get her flipped in order to fair the sheer line and install the rub rail before I paint the tops sides. I figure if I go with one color and do the whole thing with ironsides I can just paint the bottom up to the spray rail and then once I'm ready to paint the topsides it will be very easy to tie it together. So we'll see. Still have some time to think about that.

Anyway, with no further ado, some pics.

Image

Image

Image

Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sat Oct 22, 2016 10:06 am

Question for the group:

I'm working now on the final fairing in preparation for paint. This of course includes creation of a nice sharp edge where the bottom planking meets the transom. I understand the necessity of doing so to ensure the water breaks cleanly from that edge when the boat is on plane.

Here is the question though. What about edge where the SIDE planking meets the transom? With my spray rail extending all the way to the transom it appears to meet that the side planking will not be wetted when on plane. As suck I'm assuming I can leave a nice soft radius on the edge where side planking and transom meet.

Any thoughts?

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BayouBengal
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby BayouBengal » Sat Oct 22, 2016 11:53 am

A soft edge on the side planking will not be a problem.

And your boat is looking terrific, by the way.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sat Oct 22, 2016 12:47 pm

My question is, how sharp is sharp. Commercial boats all have about a 1/8" radius. I have enough scrapes, cuts, and bruises as it is.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sat Oct 22, 2016 1:12 pm

Thanks for the feedback guys. To answer your question Bill, I plan to make a fairly sharp edge. Not totally crisp because I don't want it to be to delicate but pretty sharp. I'll probably make a nice crisp sharp edge then just barely knock it down with a few passes with some sandpaper to just ease it slightly.

Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sat Dec 03, 2016 11:56 am

Image


After lots of fairing and sanding today was a major milestone. First coat of primer. I'm using supermarine etching primer. Planning to topcoat with supermarine ironsides.

First coat rolled on really nicely. Fumes are intense though. I'm gonna spray the second coat. Didn't want to spray due to the mess and waste but it will be much much faster which means less time sucking up the fumes. Hopefully my gun will spray the primer well. We'll see in about two hours.

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hoodman
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby hoodman » Sat Dec 03, 2016 2:10 pm

Looking great!

Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Sat Dec 03, 2016 6:40 pm

Thanks! Second coat looks even better. Bought a good respirator and sprayed it. Got much better transfer efficiency than expected and went pretty quickly. Should have sprayed the first coat. Oh well. All turned well so far. Gonna let it cure out and get to sanding again.

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Dave Grason
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Dave Grason » Sat Dec 03, 2016 10:42 pm

Adrock1 wrote: Bought a good respirator and sprayed it.


Why did you spray your respirator? :lol: If you've ever wondered if others genuinely read your posts, now you know. :wink:

I'm really really impressed with the project so far. I sincerely hope to see this boat at an upcoming gathering.
Isn't it amazing!! The person that never has the fortitude to pursue his own dreams, will be the first to try and discourage you from pursuing yours.


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