Overniter in SC: Flipped 5-27-17

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Fri May 20, 2016 9:26 am

Gayle Brantuk wrote:Adrock1--both sheers attach to the stem per the instructions. Where are you seeing that they don't?



I'm at the office now. Dotn remember now but I'm pretty sure it said it on sheet four to attach the sheer to the stem after the planking.

Soloboat
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Soloboat » Fri May 20, 2016 10:52 am

I think there might be a reverse from what you are thinking. the sheer nearest to keel in photo might be the main. the one closer to the floor ( ie where you are building) is the sheer that is added after planking. Your deck would be fastended to the one nearest to keel and would therefore need to be secured to stem. After planking the hull you add the "dress up" sheer to achieve the desired lines and that too is fastened to stem, then that portion is also planked. Hope that helps.
) Champagne dreams and wishes are possible on a beer budget. Just build the boat.
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Soloboat
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Soloboat » Fri May 20, 2016 10:59 am

Just looked at pics of Overniter I maybe dead wrong.
) Champagne dreams and wishes are possible on a beer budget. Just build the boat.
Nice curves are easy on the eyes.
Go sell crazy somewhere else we're all stocked up here."As Good As It Gets" Jack Nicholson.

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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Fri May 20, 2016 1:44 pm

Okay, I see the notation on the plans. The reason for keeping the sheer loose is to avoid creating a bump.You don't want to end the sheer short of the stem like the battens. I think you could safely bevel and attach it to the stem and then fair it to match the planking and still achieve a smooth transition to the upper sheer.
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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Fri May 20, 2016 2:58 pm

Okay. So permanently attach to the stem, then fair it in to meet the chines and raised sheer then plank it?

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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Gayle Brantuk » Mon May 23, 2016 11:07 am

Correct.
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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Mon May 23, 2016 11:14 am

Gayle Brantuk wrote:Correct.



Awesome. Cuz that's exactly what I did this weekend. :lol:

I have both layers of the sheer glued on one side, One more layer to do on the other side tonight.

Hopefully by the end of this week I'll have all the fairing and prep work done to start the planking. I'm taking the week of memorial day off for a family trip and really want to try to have the planking done by the end of June.

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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Thu Jul 07, 2016 4:50 pm

Image

Been a while since I posted but I've been busy working g on the boat. Planking is all on. As you'll see I've got all the screw holes plugged and a coat of epoxy on and now is sanding. I'm hoping to get started on fiber glass before long.

This leads to yet another question. How much fiberglass to use.

The plans call for one layer of 7oz. I'm particularly concerned about abrasion resistance though. This boat will get beached frequently. I want it to have good resistance to scrapes and gouges and punctures. And just generally speaking I want the surface to be tough. I don't want to have to worry about a scrape or gouge going through to the wood and needing immediate attention.

So the question is, is there any value in putting an extra layer of 7 oz glass on the hull? Or perhaps putting down just one layer of heavier glass like a ten ounce.

Also the plans call for a keel strip. I would like to increase the protection there as well. My plan is to apply this on top of the fiberglass but then apply a layer of Dynel over the keel strip. It's supposedly much easier to form to sharp bends and it's particularly abrasion resistant. I would radius the edges of the keel strip and put a fillet at the junction with the hull.

Last question is in regards to strakes. Would anyone recommend them for this boat? Will the keel strip be sufficient to prevent sliding in turns? I will likely use this boat to tow a tube or skier if that makes a difference.

Anyway just wanted to share update and get some advice on this next step.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Bill Edmundson » Thu Jul 07, 2016 5:17 pm

If you are worried about abrasion, use xynel fabric instead of glass.

Bill
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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Fri Jul 08, 2016 4:42 am

Bill Edmundson wrote:If you are worried about abrasion, use xynel fabric instead of glass.

Bill


Is that different than Dynel?

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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby vulbus » Fri Jul 08, 2016 5:02 am

I was wondering the same thing - not to speak for Bill but I think he may have meant Xynole http://www.raka.com/xynole.html

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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:22 am

That's the stuff. Now it does wet out a little milky.

Bill
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Adrock1
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Adrock1 » Fri Jul 08, 2016 6:30 am

Milky is no problem as I intend to paint the hull. The only brightwork will be the deck.

So would this totally replace the fiberglass on the hull or be in addition to the fiberglass. Can anyone elaborate on the potential drawbacks to using this xynole stuff? Will I be sacrificing any strength or rigidity in the hull. My understanding on what little reading I've done is that Dynel and xynole are good for abrasion but now for structural applications.

Would it make sense to fiberglass the hull per the plans and then just put a layer of xynole over the fiberglass on the bottom only. Perhaps covering the keel strip since it apparently takes sharp bends well.

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby DrBryanJ » Fri Jul 08, 2016 9:32 am

From what I understand from reading the posts here, fiberglass is for abrasion resistance as well. It doesn't add to the structural strength of the boat. So using xynole instead will not change the strength. Xynole does require more coats of epoxy to fill the weave. Would add to the cost and finished weight. Is it enough to be concerned about? I don't know.
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Overniter in SC

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Jul 08, 2016 10:18 am

Actually xynole is a fine weave takes less on the fill coats. I did a test with the edge of a "calibrated" fire brick. It went thru the 7 oz. glass in 10 to 12 strokes. The 4 oz. xynole, I quit at over 100.

The down sides are that it cost a little more and it is difficult to cut.

I did the hull of the mini tug/dingy and used PVC for trim. You can hurt that thing.

Dynel is a very good product. I have several white water paddles made with it (Norse). I have use the paddles as shovels and to cut brush in a campground. And only God knows how many rock they hit!

Bill
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