Monaco Restart

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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sscobra
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby sscobra » Mon Aug 07, 2017 2:53 pm

Looking real nice Chris! Skip
Built the Glen-L Monaco, 2016.

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speedracer
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby speedracer » Wed Aug 09, 2017 7:54 pm

Thanks everyone. The deck over the speedometer and tachometer will slope port and starboard and finish out just behind the windshield. At least that's the plan.

I'll be at the boat festival in October but the boat won't. No way I'll finish it by then and I don't want to put it out until it's finished.
Great spirits have always encountered violent opposition from mediocre minds. Albert Einstien

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jenko
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby jenko » Wed Aug 09, 2017 10:43 pm

Nice work :D

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mrintense
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby mrintense » Thu Aug 10, 2017 5:43 am

I had time to look over your photos this morning. Very clean work. How exciting for you to be at this point in the build. Mechanicals and electrical work and like you said, the light at the end of the tunnel is visible. I love it when things like this come together. Looking forward to seeing the finish work on the deck. I am sure it will be as nice looking as the rest of the boat is.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

Brian
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Brian » Sat Oct 21, 2017 1:23 am

I'm looking at the forward clearance of my engine in the Monte Carlo compartment and thinking I may have to move the flange aft 1/2" to 1". That will put the prop about 1.5-2" behind the strut, with a 1" shaft. I originally planned to follow the 1X shaft diameter rule, but now I'm wondering if the extra clearance is a big enough problem to send the shaft out to be recut and rekeyed.

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DrBryanJ
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby DrBryanJ » Sat Oct 21, 2017 4:57 am

Brian, not that long ago Neel Thompson posted how he lost his prop in the bottom of the Chesapeake(?) when his prop shaft broke because it was too far from the strut. I think the recommendation would be to have the shaft recut.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sat Oct 21, 2017 6:39 am

Brian

Recut. One shaft diameter clearance. At about 3000 rpm the shaft will have turned more than 2,000,000 times in 10-12 hours. Even the slightest prop flutter could fatigue the shaft.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Roberta
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Roberta » Sat Oct 21, 2017 7:48 am

Definitely no more than 1" on a 1" shaft. I have about 3/4" clearance on the Torpedo and that is plenty for water flow to the bearing and to get the prop puller in.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Brian
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Brian » Sat Oct 21, 2017 11:53 am

Thanks, all. That's what I was afraid of. It's not that cutting the shaft is such a big deal. It's that I have minimal engine-to-bilge clearance as well. So, moving it back will help with forward clearance, but also bring it down. Right now, I can extract the shaft pretty easily. With the engine in, it's going to be really hard to get a puller on the shaft flange to extract it aft. I know this is not good, but a number of design considerations resulted in this undesirable configuration. In the future, if the shaft breaks, the engine will likely have to come out. I think what I need to do is push the flange aft as far as it will go, get the engine in position, and see where I am. Unfortunately, that is going to be very difficult in my shop situation, and I had hoped to only put the engine in once. HA!

neel thompson
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby neel thompson » Sat Oct 21, 2017 12:09 pm

ONCE ??? My X-friend Larry and I put mine in at least five times till we got it right.... That's why I don't think he likes me anymore !!

Brian
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Brian » Sat Oct 21, 2017 1:11 pm

Gee, thanks for the encouragement. My situation is that the boat is still on supports, and I can't get the engine in without moving it outside first. The trailer is standing by on the mainland (I am in Hawaii). In order to move the boat out, I will need to bring the trailer over, lift the boat onto it, move it out, run the engine in on its stand, lift it up, run the boat back in under it, and set it in. Then reverse the process every time. So you say, "Join the club", I get it. But once I bring the trailer over, it will start to rust here on the windward side of Oahu, plus it's like 32' long and I have nowhere to put it (I don't want to keep working on the boat on this gorgeous trailer). So I've got a bit of a logistical problem that I've tried to avoid with accurate measurements, but it appears I'm, off about an inch.

Sh*t.

I'm wondering if a solution is to pop the flange off now, grease up the flange and the shaft, and slide it on so it's easy to get off again. Then, maybe I can get the engine in place once (all but the final alignment of the flanges), and if the shaft needs to be cut, I can slip it out aft by sliding it out of the flange. It's not going to be possible to get a puller in there with the engine in, so if the shaft ever breaks, I'll probably have to saw off the flange in place. Let's not think about that.

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Roberta
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Roberta » Sat Oct 21, 2017 2:54 pm

Are you using a prop shaft that is tapered on both ends for the prop and the engine drive flange? Or is the shaft just tapered for the prop hub and the drive hub is keyed to the shaft with no taper? Did you offset the rudder so the prop shaft could be withdrawn aft out past the rudder? I don't quite understand why you would need to pull the engine to get the prop shaft out. Maybe pics would help/

I offset the rudder on the Torpedo to allow the prop shaft to be withdrawn from the keyed non-tapered engine drive flange and out the back of the strut past the rudder with prop removed. The 1" I was referring to was the maximum distance between the prop hub and strut.

If you are using a tapered drive hub you need enough room that when you remove the prop, you can slide the shaft aft and engage the plug puller to pop the drive hub off the shaft and then slide the shaft past the rudder.

In any case, if you did not offset the rudder to allow for prop shaft removal, you will have issues removing the prop shaft.

I used a piece of 1" stainless steel tube as a dummy prop shaft to get everything aligned and to determine the proper shaft length.

Roberta
Roberta "Queen of the Boat Builders"
Built Zip "Oliver IV", Super Spartan "Jimmy 70", and Torpedo "The Glen L".

Brian
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Brian » Sat Oct 21, 2017 7:58 pm

Thanks, Roberta. You have been helpful in the past. I did a LOT of research before drilling holes and mounting strut(s). I'm fine in all the areas you warn about. My shaft is as yours, tapered for the prop and keyed straight for the flange. The reason I cannot withdraw the shaft is because there is very little distance between the flange and where the shaft goes through the next aft frame. When I disconnect the flange from the engine (someday), I will be able to slide the shaft with the flange on it back about 4" before it hits the frame. Maybe there is a puller that can get in that space, but I've never seen it. The flange itself is what, 3"? So unless it is very kind to me before it comes completely off, I don't see a puller working. True, as it comes off I can slide the flange further aft, so maybe I will get lucky. Or maybe there is some really shallow hub puller I've never seen. But I'm hoping to never have that issue.

I do have one other possibility before cutting the shaft. The forward engine bulkhead is a panel that is also the backside of a cabinet, which is about 4" deep. I think when I put the engine in, I will remove this panel. That will allow me to move the engine forward up to about 3" (plenty). Then I can refit the panel around the air intake, which will end up inside the cabinet. Plenty of ventilation, as the upper (unseen) part of the cabinet space opens between two beams to the engine compartment and the rest of the boat. I doubt the cabinet would ever be opened when the boat is underway, so it may actually not be too bad a solution. Stay tuned!

BTW, I found that a 1" chrome shower curtain rod fit perfectly in my struts, so that was my dummy. I also was able to secure a 1-3/8" bit in one end and a hex drive in the other, so it was also my drill bit for the shaft hole. Took awhile, but it made a great hole.

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Rich Coey
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Rich Coey » Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:13 am

You should not need a puller. Separate the flange from the transmission, place a socket or similar between the end of the prop shaft and the end of the transmission then gradually tighten the flange bolts to press the shaft out of the flange.
( you will probably need longer bolts than the originals )

Rich

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Monaco Restart

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Oct 22, 2017 8:30 am

I used a "Split Coupling". There is a slot in the throat of the coupling. A bolt on each side pinches the shaft and key. There is also a hole in the coupling side for a lock bolt. I actually drilled and tapped into the shaft.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build


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