Monroe Malahini

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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PeterG
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby PeterG » Wed Nov 09, 2016 9:42 am

Check your plans, sheet 4 upper left corner, the transom layout shows the motor well sides attach to the outer edges of the middle battens. This is what I did for a couple reasons. First, because that's how Glen designed it, looks easier to build. Second, I had measured how much side clearance my Quicksilver Ride Guide steering system (like teleflex) needed, turns out it needs 16" when in a hard turn. The motor well as shown at 33" was not going to work for me, may still block the steering later if it is replaced. Bob Brandenstein had this issue when he replaced his outboard and reinstalled his steering, the link hit the side. So I chose to put the motor well sides to the outer edge of the middle bottom battens like the plans. I made my motor board 36" wide, the same distance between the outer edges of the middle battens. The motor well sides will attach to the edges of the battens, to the transom at the ends of the motor board, and the underside of the deck when it is built. I am moving the 1x3 deck supports from the inboard sides of the motor well sides to the outboard sides for a cleaner look. Here is another look that shows my layout, the 3/8" plywood pieces are acting as spacers where the motor well sides will attach later.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

PeterG
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby PeterG » Tue Nov 22, 2016 8:46 am

Hi Lyman, have you made any progress? Am looking forward to seeing your work and comparing notes. It is COLD here in New England, brought my work to a screeching halt. My shop is unheated and it's too cold to epoxy anything.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Nov 22, 2016 9:49 am

Peter

In winter, I just put out a radiator style electric heater with a small fan behind it. There are limits of what that can do. Any flame type heater will work except when you get to the bright-work. They put out moisture which can cloud epoxy. I keep my epoxy inside in winter where it's about 70*. You can also use faster hardener. I put epoxy brushes in the freezer. They're fine to work with the next day, maybe day 2. By the third day they're hard.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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PeterG
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby PeterG » Tue Nov 22, 2016 11:22 am

Hi Bill, thanks for the suggestions, all great. Like you I store the epoxy inside, keeps it from thickening up. I use a radiant propane heater from Harbor Freight when the temps fall, it works pretty darn good. My shop is a 12 x 16 shed in my backyard, not insulated so it cools quickly when I shut off the heat. I glued the scarf joints on a couple of battens this Sunday, it was warm enough when I started and I am using the West 205 fast hardener which is OK down to 40F. But about three hours later the wind picked up, temperature dropped like a rock to the upper 30's and it's still cold now... I left the battens clamped in the fixture. I'll be checking the remains of that epoxy batch before I unclamp them, hopefully it has cured properly. One thing that may help is the shed warms up quite a bit during the day from sun exposure.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Nov 22, 2016 12:19 pm

Peter

It looks like you have a handle on what to do/try. Sometimes, I just throw things out for anyone that might not know, as general information.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

PeterG
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby PeterG » Tue Nov 22, 2016 2:44 pm

Which is exactly why we find the Glen L forum so helpful :D Thanks Bill!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Thompson
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby Thompson » Tue Nov 22, 2016 7:41 pm

Peter
Tried to send a post earlier today. Typed it hit submit. Guess it when somewhere i outer space. Tried to add a picture also. No luck. I use my phone to do all this. It's a smart phone, but it's owner is not.

Not much progress. I made a new transom and i like it better. I like you idea of prefabing as much as possibly on the transom ahead of time. I made my transom knee by the pattern. I made it taller but not tall enough. When it's all assembled there will 7" where the motor mounts instead of 6" like the plans. Don't know if this will be problem. I could make the 2x4 thicker. Also the angle on the top of the knee seams to steep. The transom angles back 12deg. Seams the angle on the top of the knee should be closer to 90 deg.

Here in Georgia it's just starting to get cold. 40's at night high 60's durning the day. I have a heater in my shop but the shop is not insulated. So it only works so so. I'll need to get an additional heater. When i start assembly on the buiding form I'll have to do this in the garage where i park my truck. Not crazy about parking out side this time of year, and for who knows how long. I'll try to figure out how to get pictures on this thing. A picture is worth a thousand words. Especially when your trying to get help to fix something you've screwed up.
Lyman

PeterG
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby PeterG » Tue Nov 22, 2016 8:39 pm

Sounds like you are making great progress. Your transom knee height should not be a problem, but if you like you could add on the inch to the top and correct the angle at the same time. The only issue I see if you leave the 2 x 4 where it is, is later when you bolt the outboard to the transom. The bolts, nut and washers will need to clear below the 2 x 4 stiffener. My Merc 650 places those bolts at 9 inches down from the edge of the transom cutout.
You picked up on the 2 x 4 angle too. I set my 2 x 4 stiffener and the top of the knee at 90 degrees to the transom. I drew it all out full size on some plywood and it worked out great. My motorwell will extend about 26 inches forward of the transom and will be 36 inches wide. The cutout in the deck over the motorwell will be 24 inches forward of the transom and 26 inches wide. I based these dimensions on those given in the Merc 650 owner's manual.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Thompson
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Wed Dec 21, 2016 5:42 pm

Haven't posted in a while. I almost started a whole new string of posts. I just realized I spelled Malahini wrong. I guess spell check doesn't recognize the word. Hope this isn't an omen of things to come. Oh well I'm not superstitious. Thanks to all the kind people who didn't point this out and thought to themselves, this guy must be a dummy.
20161221_185414.jpg


Not much has happened. I've gotten all the frames built and two coats of epoxy put on them. Need to pick up some qtr sawn oak for the keel, chine and sheer. The I can build my form and get this thing to start looking like a boat. Might have some time over the Holidays.

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mrintense
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Re: Monroe Mahalini

Postby mrintense » Wed Dec 21, 2016 7:22 pm

It's a lengthy process. Just hang in there and do something everyday even if only for 30 minutes. eventually you'll be on the water! :D
Carl
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Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

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gap998
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby gap998 » Mon Dec 26, 2016 8:28 am

Thompson wrote:I just realized I spelled Malahini wrong. I guess spell check doesn't recognize the word. Hope this isn't an omen of things to come. Oh well I'm not superstitious. Thanks to all the kind people who didn't point this out and thought to themselves, this guy must be a dummy.


I think you'll find most people didn't even notice the spelling until you pointed it out! - I didn't anyway :lol:
Gary

Planning a whole fleet, but starting with a Zip...I think.

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Hercdrvr
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Hercdrvr » Mon Dec 26, 2016 9:43 am

Been building one for 18 months and I still spell it 3 different ways.
Matt B

PeterG
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby PeterG » Fri Dec 30, 2016 8:11 pm

Nicely done! Looks like you made great progress, your gussets between the chine and shear blocking the stem are a nice touch. next up is making your long pieces... keel, chines and shears.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Thompson
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Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Sun Jan 15, 2017 6:51 pm

I had a pretty productive weekend. Friday picked up some QS oak for the keel, chine and sheer. Spent most of Saturday cutting, planning. Getting the keel ready.
20170114_173919.jpg
20170114_173919.jpg
I had been debating on where to do the build. My shop is attached to a two stall horse barn with a concrete isle. No horses anymore, except one old plug that stands around the the pasture making fertilizer. The space is a little tight. But convenient to my shop and the tools.

Never thought it would take this long to get to this point. But I'm on No time table. Enjoying the process and the challenge.
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Thompson
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Wed Jan 25, 2017 7:55 pm

Making a little progress.
20170125_195939.jpg
i put the chine on in two laminations. Figured it might be easier to bend. Getting frame four notched just right was a little tricky. Best i can tell so far both sides seam to pretty symmetrical. Tackling the cheer next. I can only do one side a time. Not enough clamps. Might need to make another run to Harbor Freight for a few more. Didn't use everyone i had, but close to it.

Lyman
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20170125_195939.jpg


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