Monroe Malahini

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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hoodman
Posts: 1057
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby hoodman » Thu Jan 26, 2017 8:35 am

Looks great nice curves! My chines are laminated too. The cheap spring clamps work pretty well, especially in the flatter areas. Even if you need a bunch of them, they are cheap.

PeterG
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Location: Connecticut

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby PeterG » Thu Jan 26, 2017 12:48 pm

Lyman, the chines look great. Nice, sweet faired lines. I am considering laminations for my chines too and have some questions for you:
Did you use full length pieces for the laminations or did you have to scarf them?
When you fitted and installed the chines, which end did you start at? The bow?
Great progress.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Thompson
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Thu Jan 26, 2017 7:11 pm

I scarfed the the joints. The first piece was in one piece with a scarf joint in it. The second in two separate pieces. Where these two pieces meet there is a scarf joint also. I had to dry fit these several times. After the first one was installed and glued in place. I dry fit the second and put a reference mark at about the middle of each piece. So when I glued the second lamination to the first I put my first clamp at the reference mark and then worked towards the stem to make sure it still fit at the stem like i wanted. The second piece of the second lamination i started at my reference mark then worked towards the scarf joint to make sure it landed like i wanted. I made sure the scraf joints were not on top of one another. Hope i explained this ok and it helps. Thanks for the words of encouragement.
Lyman

PeterG
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Location: Connecticut

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby PeterG » Fri Jan 27, 2017 9:02 am

Sounds like you had lots of fun with the chines, thanks for for explaining your process, makes perfect sense.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Thompson
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:10 pm

20170128_103149.jpg


Since this picture i have put the second lamination of the sheer on one side. That's when i realized from frame 3 forward there doesn't seam to be enough of the sheer sticking out past the frame to fair to match the frame. Frame 3 is not too bad, but frame 4 is not even close. Looks like i might need another 5/8". The sheer doesn't follow the frame like the chine. I notched the frame before installing on the building form, knowing i would have to bevel them later so the sheer would lay flat against them. I've gone back over the plans and directions, but apparently I've missed something. Where the chine meets the stem it's not set back like it should be. I thought i had this set right when i attached the chine block to the stem. The sheer seams to meet at the stem where should. I guess if i have to add another lamination to part of the sheer from somewhere between frame 2 and 3 to the stem then i could add the stem as well.

Thought i had things going good. Seams like one step forward and three steps back.

Hercdrvr
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Location: McKinney TX

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Hercdrvr » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:38 pm

Your fine, mine was the same way. I ripped an 1 1/2" wide strip of plywood and glued it to the stem. That gave me the material I need to fair the stem to the chine junction. In retrospect, I might have bent a piece of oak or mahogany and glued it to the stem, better to fasten the planking to instead of plywood end grain.

As far as the chine not clearing the frame, yep, just add another lamination.

You're doing great, keep us posted.
Matt B
Squirt and Malahini
Attachments
IMG_0873.JPG
Notice there's No end grain plywood on stem

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hoodman
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Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby hoodman » Wed Feb 01, 2017 7:45 pm

It's pretty common to have to add extra laminations up forward. It's nothing you can't recover from.

Thompson
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Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Thu Feb 02, 2017 6:20 am

Thanks Matt and Matt. I guess that's one of the advantages of this, just add more. I was happy with the way the sheer looked and I know that adding to the forward part of the sheer and not the back, because it's not needed, means I would have to blend the laminations together. I had a thought of maybe trying to cut the sheer loose from frames 3 and 4 and adding the laminations to the back side. Not sure if the sheer would spring out far enough to do that. Of course i would still have the problem where the chine meets the stem. Might be able to sand that down enough to make that work.

I appreciate your input. Thanks

Lyman

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hoodman
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby hoodman » Thu Feb 02, 2017 8:07 am

Blending the lamination in is not hard. I would not cut the sheer loose now, it would probably end up not long enough at the transom if you added a lamination to the inside.

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rbrandenstein
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Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby rbrandenstein » Thu Feb 02, 2017 9:42 am

The other issue you may have, which of a lot of Malahini builders run into, is at the front where the plane of the chine falls inside the sheer. This prevents you from being able to fair the chine and sheer to accept the plywood. You will need to add some material to bottom half of the chine. I and others had to do this. You might as well get all this issues resolved at one time.
Here is a picture of the problem.
_3338.JPG

I added a wedge of white oak to the chine which was then faired.
IMG_0400.JPG
________________
Bob
Completed Malahini (launched 6/24/2012)
http://bobsboatbuild.blogspot.com/

Thompson
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Thu Feb 02, 2017 11:35 am

Thanks. Bob. I had noticed that problem also and had planned to fix it like you did. Your blog has been a big help. Matt i think your right. The sheer is attached to the frames really well. Not sure i could get it reattached as well. Luck i have enough material with out making a trip to the lumber store. Thanks

Thompson
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Sun Feb 19, 2017 4:26 pm

FAIRING IS FUN!!!! Sort of like a root canal with no novacaine is fun. I shouldn't say that. Root canals are not that bad. Just kidding. I'm not sure you would call it fun or what word to use. Frustrating, rewarding, necessary a since of accomplishment, all of the above maybe ?
20170219_172958.jpg
I believe I'm ready for plywood, planking. I have one other place to check locally to see if they have it. If they don't I'll have to order it and have it shipped. I want to use Okoume on the sides and bottom, seams it may be easier to work with, and Meranti for the rest.
20170219_172958.jpg

These were my implements of destruction. It seams i would be going along thinking I'm makeing good progress and look back and where'd that dip come from. Epoxy some more wood on, let it dry, and go at it again.
Lyman
Attachments
20170219_173118_Burst01.jpg

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Andy Garrett
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Location: Nampa, Idaho

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Andy Garrett » Mon Feb 20, 2017 3:00 pm

Many of us have had to add lumber to the chine area up front to keep from going concave.

This has an added benefit too! You generally wind up with thicker chines in that area than you would have had it been done correctly. And..., it's laminated construction (stronger). Given the pounding boats can take at that spot, this seems to be a good thing to me.

I even added another strip between those frames on the inside at the sheer after fairing my Zip. I just felt better about it.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

Thompson
Posts: 41
Joined: Tue Sep 13, 2016 11:34 am
Location: Monroe, Ga

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby Thompson » Tue Mar 14, 2017 7:52 am

20170313_145248.jpg

I got one side on. Just a dry fit. I have about 3/4" extra all the way around. How close should i get it before I epoxy it inplace, or do you usually do that afterwords.
Scarfed my joints and not 100% satisfied with them i thinks they will be ok. Stained it before i glued the pieces together. I'll see how well the decision works out as things progress.

It was 70 degrees here last week. Todays hi is only in the 40's. That Georgia for you.

JimmY
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Location: Brighton, MI

Re: Monroe Malahini

Postby JimmY » Tue Mar 14, 2017 9:05 am

I would say you are ready for epoxy with 3/4" overhang. Just make sure to install the screws in the same order you did when fitting. This will help reduce any shifting.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!


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