GERONIMO's progress and questions

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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bobinpowayca
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Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: Poway, CA

GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby bobinpowayca » Thu Dec 15, 2016 7:03 pm

Howdy, I'm building Greronimflo, guess I need to learn how to do a "thread" and attach a picture of myself :lol: but here's where I'm at. I got the decking on, it's 3/8 okoume. Filled the screw holes and joints with Quik Fair twice. Sanded with 220, one coat of silver tip epoxy. I buttoned it up for now while I finish the holiday stuff. I was going to stop at this point for my shoulder surgery but I'll probably keep working until it's too uncomfortable.
So - some advice, please - as you can see the decking overhangs the carling, the dash, and the hull's sheer from 1/16 to 1/4 inch all around. my plan is to use my sabre saw to get it a little closer - in the old days I would have then sanded it flush, but now I'm thinking I could use a router.
I have very limited experience with a router - would a "flush cut" bit do the job?
Another concern - I'm thinking I will fiberglass the decking and maybe prime it (epoxy primer) before trimming. Do ya think the router will rip up the fiberglass? i.e., should I flush cut the decking before or after fiberglass and paint?
Thanks for your thoughts. Bob
Attachments
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Bob
_______________
Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
PBR support (1968)

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sscobra
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Location: Dripping Springs, TX

Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby sscobra » Thu Dec 15, 2016 11:13 pm

Bob, the router is a great tool for that job. If you have very limited experience, just go slow with it. Personally I would trim the edges before fiberglass and paint. The fiberglass and epoxy will dull the bit quicker than just cutting the plywood. The flush cut bit is a good bit to use, but it will only work as long as the decking is perpendicular to the surface the bearing runs against. If it is not perpendicular, than the cut won't be flush, you could end up cutting into the sides of the hull or carlings. From your photos, the deck looks pretty perpendicular, but it is hard to tell from them. If any of this is known to you, I apologize for telling you what you already know! You want to rout opposite to the direction the bit is turning. So facing the edge you want to rout, rout from left to right. Don't try to rout anything 1/4" or more in one pass, do it in two passes. Just hold onto the router tightly and keep it firmly planted on the surface. Tilting it will chew up the edge. If you want to protect the blue paint near the edge, where the bearing will run, you can put down a layer of tape, but then you will have an edge that is overhanging the side by the thickness of the tape. That would be easy to sand off. What I do if the side finish is important to protect, I replace the metal bearing with a plastic one. Hope this helps. Skip
Built the Glen-L Monaco, 2016.

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kens
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Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby kens » Fri Dec 16, 2016 3:54 am

I used a router also, but,
I needed several different size trim bearings.
as you go around the hull, the angle of the topsides is ever-changing.
I seldom trimmed it 'flush', i used bearings a bit oversized to leave a small overhang to be sanded off.
Oak is over rated, everything about it takes extra time; then it warps, splits or checks !!! :roll:

bob smith
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Location: Chester, SC

Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby bob smith » Fri Dec 16, 2016 10:12 am

I started with a router but was concerned with the lightning speed that it can do great damage. I ended up sanding the overhang down, starting with a 7" disc sander (careful with this) and finishing up with the random orbit palm sander.
Go slow!
Bob Smith
Chester, SC

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chugalug
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Location: top of mn.

Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby chugalug » Fri Dec 16, 2016 10:58 am

:D I like using small hand held belt sander (3x18 belt) using 80 grit.could go more aggresive at first with 40 grit.I've had problems with router bits as bearings sometimes fall off or fall apart during use.also can use belts for hand sand block
Working on regular-sized Bo-Jest


"If it's not crooked,It's not mine

bobinpowayca
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: Poway, CA

Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby bobinpowayca » Sun Dec 18, 2016 8:07 pm

Thanks a lot folks for the repliies - they've given me some good pointers. For one thing, yeah the deck's contact with the hull surely isn't ninety degrees and changes as you go around the hull. And the deck's contact with the dash and carling, altho it should be perpendicular.. I can easily see me ripping into my african mahogany dash or worse with my old clunker router.
So I think I will get as close as I can with my sabre saw then hand or power sand.
On the sheer I'll use my sanding boards and try to maintain a flat vertical surface the width of the sheer clamp, which will most likely be two laminations given the curvature. Thanks for your advice! Bob
Attachments
IMG_0840.JPG
Bob
_______________
Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
PBR support (1968)

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hoodman
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Re: GERONIMO's progress and questions

Postby hoodman » Mon Dec 19, 2016 8:13 am

That's a good looking boat, Bob!


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