GERONIMO's bumper rail

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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bobinpowayca
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: Poway, CA

GERONIMO's bumper rail

Postby bobinpowayca » Thu Feb 09, 2017 8:53 pm

Howdy shipmates! Well, here's where I'm at on my build. Got the deck on and painted. Now I'm doing the sheer clamp.
I got some 1/2 inch net white oak (10 foot lengths) and ripped 1 1/4 inch strips. I sanded the junction of the deck and the side sheathing, as vertically as possible, first with a disc sander, then my sanding boards to ensure fairness, then the belt sander, then the sanding boards again, etc.
I plan laminating two 1/2" strips. First piece glued and screwed on. Second piece glued and - wait - I've got boxes full of various lengths bronze "boat nails". This is going to be a "robust" bumper rail - I think it would look good to nail on the second lamination. i.e., instead of plugging countersunk screw holes,, just nail on the boat nails leaving a bronze nail head. Then how to finish - maybe sand it all down and a few coats of epoxy.
Hey by the way - any chemists out there? - how come when I clamped down the white oak with the iron clamp faces and poured many pots of boiling water to bend it - how come where the iron of the clamps touched the white oak it made dark purple stains? why not orange from the rust or black - where does the grape colored stain come from? :?: Only thing I can think of are manganese compounds and welcj's grape juice. :mrgreen: bob
Attachments
IMG_0888.JPG
why the grapejuice stain
IMG_0886.JPG
tried to get vertical 1 1/1/8"face all around
IMG_0884.JPG
boiling water, towels and 2x12 form
Bob
_______________
Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
PBR support (1968)

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hoodman
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Joined: Thu Nov 10, 2011 8:48 am
Location: Lafayette, IN

Re: GERONIMO's bumper rail

Postby hoodman » Fri Feb 10, 2017 11:57 am

Looks great, Bob! That's gotta be nerve-wracking to sand into that sheer to make it vertical. Are you planning to cap the bumper rail with some type of half oval aluminum or SS or just leave the wood? You'll need some kind of varnish or other clear over the epoxy for UV. But you probably know that.

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Bill Edmundson
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Location: Birmingham, AL, USA
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Re: GERONIMO's bumper rail

Postby Bill Edmundson » Fri Feb 10, 2017 3:10 pm

Everyone!

If you want SS rub-rail, This is the place to go! http://www.marineind.net/index.htm

They make it for everyone else.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

bobinpowayca
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: Poway, CA

Re: GERONIMO's bumper rail

Postby bobinpowayca » Fri Feb 10, 2017 8:44 pm

Matt it's a lot of sanding - one reason I sanded a vertical edge is that it will be much easier to bend on the sheer clamp as you go around the sheer. I haven't decided whether to paint or varnish it yet, I was thinking the bronze nail heads might look good if I don't paint it.
Bill thanks for the SS source - I don't know if the oval metal would make the bend at the bow. I see this company will bend it for you - I would like to have a piece of stainless steel on my stem cap from the bow to the skeg so I'm going to check that out. wish I had put that on before I flipped the boat. Bob
Bob
_______________
Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
PBR support (1968)

bobinpowayca
Posts: 347
Joined: Thu Jun 16, 2011 1:40 pm
Location: Poway, CA

Re: GERONIMO's bumper rail

Postby bobinpowayca » Tue Feb 21, 2017 2:39 pm

well most you folks already know this...but concerning my post about pouring boiling water over the white oak bumper rail to bend it - it's only 1/2 inch thick and I should have simply bent it. I got carried away pouring kettles of boiling water over the wrapped oak - that worked great bending the chine and sheer, they were bigger pieces of oak.
But what happened on the bumper rail...yeah the piece was perfectly bent with no springback, but the boiling water must've leached out the oak so much that it dried it out to the point where it was cupped and lots of little splits in it. Fortunately the second lamination covered it. I guess to do it right I would need a steam box. I need to make one in order to bend the oak for the motor opening in the transom - that's a 90 degree bend.
And as I recall, pouring boiling water onto towels to help bend the plywood did work, but it left the surfaced of the plywood checked. bob
Bob
_______________
Built the Glen-L 17 (1988), Geronimo under construction (2013)
PBR support (1968)


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