Key Largo by mickffly

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Key Largo by mickffly

Postby Mickffly » Wed Feb 22, 2017 12:48 pm

I am planking my key largo. As I get to the bow, I am finding it hard (impossible) to get the edges aligned. Some I can take down with a spoke shave, others are decidedly separated. I tried using skinnier planks, more fairing, shimming battens, and it helped, but still have some issues. Planning to use a squeegee and gel magic to fill the gaps and get a better fair curve in the extreme front. Then the next layer should go down flatter? Any advice appreciated...
Charleston, SC
Key Largo Build
started 8/30/2015

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Key Largo by mickffly

Postby Bill Edmundson » Wed Feb 22, 2017 1:03 pm


I used a bench sander and shaped them to an hour glass shape. I only shaped one side at a time. The other side I left straight, Then shaped the next one to that. Narrower strips help. I was down to using 3" wide strips by then.

Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Re: Key Largo by mickffly

Postby Cyclone » Wed Feb 22, 2017 6:39 pm

Hi Mickffly,

I suspect that you may have already viewed the pictures of the Key Largo build on the "boatbuilder galleries" section from the Glen L Marine home page. If not they might help. I found the bow of my build very challenging when cold molding the strips of plywood and it looked very similar to what I see in those Key Largo build pictures. It looks like the Key Largo and my build both have some reverse curve at the bow which I suspect makes the fitting of the strips more challenging compared to some other designs. It does look really cool though. I used some small number 4 and number 6 pan head screws with washers here and there to help me hold the pieces in place temporarily while checking the fit. I found I needed to have good contact to the frames to see how it affected the required contour as the strip changes direction as it makes the required bends. These screws left very small holes that were easy to fill with epoxy, or were enlarged to accept the permanent fasteners if they still were aligned to the holes in the strips after fitting. I marked the edge of the strip to be trimmed to match the adjacent strip with a marker. Like Bill mentioned I left the edge that did not need to be fitted straight, which I think made fitting the edge of the next strip to it easier, although still allot of edge fitting is required to get the next strip to mate well. I liked using a medium rasp to shape the edge of the strip. I was used thin marine plywood for the strips with the width of the strips made narrower at the end that had to curve more to follow the stem and battens. After the first layer was completed I did find a few places where the surface of the strips were not as flush to one another as I would have liked. Especially at the spots where there are no battens at the very front of the bow between the chine log and stem. I used a thin layer of thickened epoxy to level up those spots before applying the second layer. I am not sure if that was really necessary, but I wanted to make sure that the second layer had a reasonably smooth first layer to follow. This is my first experience with cold molding. The second layer was much easier as it has full contact to the first layer and can be secured along the edges. I am happy to be finished with that part of the build as I found it finicky at the bow of the boat.

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