First major problem with Zip build

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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PeterG
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby PeterG » Tue Apr 25, 2017 9:13 am

Yeah, there is a fair amount of bending stress on that piece as installed, just off the shear blocking. Probably a combination of the woodgrain and the stress: all it takes is a small nick or imperfection at an edge and the tension progressively tears at the grain until it fails. Bad luck but repairable. Great looking job so far. Good luck!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby Bill Edmundson » Tue Apr 25, 2017 9:27 am

In the end, I think most of the boats strength comes from the closed curve surfaces of the planking and decking. The frame becomes mostly a building form for the skin.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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JasonQ
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby JasonQ » Mon May 22, 2017 3:49 pm

I now have a more concerning problem. This afternoon when I was taking the clamps off the stbd aft side planking I realized there is a small crack about 18" from the transom in my side planking. The crack appears to just be in the top veneer. It is above the waterline. I hope I can sand it down so it won't be noticeable but does this present a structural problem? I appreciate your advice.
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The crack is hard to see

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vupilot
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby vupilot » Mon May 22, 2017 4:17 pm

Are you planning to finish the hull bright or paint? If its not a deep crack I think you can sand it round so you have a smooth curve again and when you fiberglass you should be ok. It may be visible if finished bright thought, might end up as a darker line than surrounding panel.

JasonQ
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby JasonQ » Mon May 22, 2017 4:25 pm

I was hoping to only paint below the water line but I guess that depends on how the rest of the planking goes.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby Andy Garrett » Wed May 24, 2017 8:38 am

I had the exact same crack on the exact same spot on my Zip.
Sand and fiberglass. It'll be fine.

However, I painted my hull. If you bright finish, perhaps that would be a good spot for a rub-rail, pinstripe, or name decal.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

PeterG
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby PeterG » Wed May 24, 2017 10:14 am

I was going to say, I've seen this on another's Zip... was Andy's. Jason what kind of plywood are you installing on your boat, and how many plys? Do you know, is it Okoume or Meranti? I find the Meranti (Hydrotek brand) is stiffer and more likely to split like that without some help like boiling water soak to make it more flexible.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

JasonQ
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby JasonQ » Wed May 24, 2017 11:26 am

Thanks Andy, that's makes me feel better that someone else had the same problem. I hope I can find a way to cover it. Otherwise I will just have to paint the hull.

Peter, I am using Mertanti and it is 5 ply. I bought it from World Panel. The brand name was hydrocore, no sure if it differs from the hydrotek. But it is BS1088. The port side bent so easily I wasn't worried about it cracking. I may try using some steam to bend the planking around the stem. Thanks

PeterG
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby PeterG » Wed May 24, 2017 2:25 pm

I was curious because I'll be planking my boat in the near future. I originally decided on meranti plywood for lower cost, but the 3/8" (9mm) meranti I used for another project was so stiff I was concerned it wouldn't bend without a big fight. Others like Matt H with his Geronimo had success with okoume plywood being a little more flexible so that's what I got.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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gap998
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby gap998 » Wed May 24, 2017 2:41 pm

Josh Burke (New member from Oregon thread), had an issue with one of his panels he explains his solution in his building the Zip Youtube vids. He has bright side & they look great.
Gary

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Andy Garrett
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby Andy Garrett » Thu May 25, 2017 8:31 am

I used Hydrotek and used towels soaked in hot water to soften for the bend--still cracked.
For a half dozen reasons, I would never build with it again.

That said..., it is VERY strong stuff.
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...

PeterG
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby PeterG » Thu May 25, 2017 9:05 am

Agreed, Hydrotek is very strong, I will use it anywhere is doesn't have to be bent or curved. I made my Malahini transom, stem, breasthook, chine blocking and transom knee with it, great stuff. I am painting my hull so color/grain mismatch between okoume sides and meranti transom won't be an issue. I recommend (as with many plywoods) that you use a razor knife and pre-cut the face ply before sawing pieces out, to keep it from tearing out and splintering.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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hoodman
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby hoodman » Thu May 25, 2017 4:59 pm

The meranti ply does look nicer in my opinion than the okoume but the okoume does seem to be lighter weight and nicer to work with. I used meranti for my gussets and okoume for the hull.

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Andy Garrett
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Re: First major problem with Zip build

Postby Andy Garrett » Mon May 29, 2017 8:05 am

I used A/B exterior grade for my gussets! :lol:
Andy Garrett

Perhaps the slowest Zip build in Glen-L history...


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