16' Ski Boat Restoration

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sun Feb 18, 2018 1:52 pm

A few coats of Bilgekote applied with a ("best") 3/8" roller from home depot (its really nice and flows out well).

Do not apply it too thick. I had a few spots that puddled and it did not cure. I had to scrape it off and re apply in thinner coats.
Attachments
bilgekote.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby mrintense » Wed Feb 21, 2018 1:30 pm

This is looking really good. I am getting ready to apply more bilge paint myself. Give it plenty of time to dry. I tried some sanding and touch up about 6 months ago a day and a half after painting and it was a bit soft still. Not a mixing problem as this was one part paint, but it takes a bit of time to fully cure.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Wed Feb 21, 2018 7:55 pm

I read on the BilgeKote datasheet that as long as you don't exceed the max dry time (temperature dependant) that no sanding is required between coats. I assume this has to do with when no more chemical bond will occur.

http://www.yachtpaint.com/LiteratureCen ... sa-eng.pdf
Attachments
paint.jpg
paint1.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sat Mar 10, 2018 4:31 pm

I just bought some 8/4 quartersawn Sapeli to resaw into the deck planks and some 4/4 quartersawn African Mahogany for the king plank and the coverboards.

Plan:
Resaw the sapeli and book match them around the king plank, plane to thickness, cut to shape etc.
Epoxy as adhesive to the sub-deck
Lead ingots to weigh down the planks to conform them to the sub-deck while epoxy is curing


Some questions after reading http://glen-l.com/deckseams.pdf:
1. Is there a typical width of the planks? Or just somewhere between 2 and 3 inches to get an integer number of planks between the king plank and the coverboards? Base it on the golden ratio to the width of the king plank?
2. What is the recommended thickness of the deck planks. Since I will not be screwing them down as Roberta did I think I can get away with 3/16" or 1/4" thick.
3. Is there a typical width of the caulk line 1/4" ?
4. Do you use neat epoxy or do you add some fillers into the mix to serve as a gap filler? (maybe put it on with a grooved trowel?)
5. What do you like to use to space out the joints (I was thinking those little spacers for tile floors).
6. I am still on the fence about caulk after reading the article below; I am open to suggestions.
6a. Bill did you varnish over the 3M 4000 UV?
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sat Mar 10, 2018 5:14 pm

Jim

My planking is cut from 8/4. I cut it to 3/16. By the time it goes through the planer and is sanded it's about 1/8". I space at 1/4". No varnish over the 4000UV. The down side is it can get mold on it.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sun Mar 11, 2018 11:03 am

Thanks Bill. I also found this http://glen-l.com/designs/hankinson/run ... nking.html which seems to be a good resource as well.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sun Mar 25, 2018 8:23 pm

Got the Velvet Drive installed on the engine and the D21 "Stuffing box" and the coupler installed in the boat.

The stuffing box came with T-type clamps but this article recommends non-perforated hose clamps instead. The width of these T-clamps makes it such that I can not install two of them as is recommended. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/double_hose_clamps
Attachments
shaft.jpg
trans.jpg
Notice that this transmission is mounted on the front of the engine (lends to a lower CG I think)
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Mon Mar 26, 2018 9:41 pm

Off the stand and motor mounts and flywheel mounted.
Attachments
mounts.jpg
flywheel.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Tue Mar 27, 2018 7:19 pm

I put another coat of varnish on the dash. Maybe I'll be done with 2 or 3 more?? I lost track of how many are on there, and I'm not sure how many I totally sanded through!

I started using a cheepo foam brush instead of my $20 badger hair brush and its looking just as good or better.

The switch holes were starting to get plugged up and i remembered a trick from my woodworking classes when drilling through finished surfaces. Run the Drill backwards so that the flutes don't catch and ruin the finish. It worked like a charm to clean out the varnish that was narrowing the hole dia.

P.S. Is there a support group for people that have been abused by applying varnish?
1. Uncured varnish due to epoxy blush, requiring $30 worth of sand paper to get it all off
2. Huge bug that died right in the middle of the project which needed to be sanded way out
3. Not realizing that the previous coat is not fully cured in a few spots when I start sanding and get a gummy spot that pull out creating a low spot that needs even more varnish to fill.
4. Never ending coats of varnish
5. Bubbles
6. Brush strokes that do not level
7. Not knowing when to quit
8. Drips that stay gummy
9. Waiting between coats when you just want it to be done
Attachments
varnish.jpg
still wet
holes.jpg
Dried
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sun Apr 01, 2018 7:08 pm

I was torn between doing the deck or installing the engine next. My mind was made up when my wife expressed her extreme displeasure that the engine was still in the garage; guess what, the engine has been installed :D. There is still some tweaking to get the driveshaft alignment just right, there are no fancy adjusters on these motor mounts, just shims, so its quite a challenge. I saved the original shims but I had to take quite a few out to get it aligned with the transmission, perhaps it has moved since the original install in '63? I have got the shaft aligned pretty close (not 0.003" close though,hence the engine leveler is still attached so i an keep tweaking on it). On the bottom of the transmission I have about 1/4" of clearance to the hull so that is pretty tight...

I'm glad that I did not get the PSS Shaft seal, there was barely enough room for this one.
Attachments
engine1.jpg
engine2.jpg
engine3.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

JimmY
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby JimmY » Mon Apr 02, 2018 9:29 am

Looking good.

Just out of curiosity, how do you align a motor like this? Are you mic'ing between the two halves of the couplers?

Thanks,
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:26 am

Jim

Yes you mic between the coupler halves. From memory, I think its 001 per inch of coupling flange diameter. Same clearance all around. The trick is that when you change one engine mount all the others change.

I learned to respect millwrights.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Mon Apr 02, 2018 10:23 pm

I got my UFLEX V26 steering wheel in but it arrived all dented up because they did not bubble wrap the hub cover and its sharp edge banged up the wood...They are getting it back...

The other issue is that the wheel does not seat all the way onto the steering shaft. It appears that the key is bottoming out so I might try filing it a bit deeper to allow it to fully seat (on a new wheel that is not all dented that is).

I see references to "standard 3/4" tapered shaft" can anyone define what is the standard? Wondering if i have a non-standard 3/4" taper??

I measured my steering "column" and its 0.75" at the bottom and tapers to 0.62" at the top.

The original wheel (as seen in the picture) is a 3-bolt type, I could use its hub and get a 3 bolt wheel but the integrated wheel/hub versions seem more prevalent in the boating community. Any suggestions? Are the integrated wheels harder to pull since there are no holes for a puller?
Attachments
20180402_215110.jpg
Old Wheel and Hub
taper.jpg
Is this a standard 3/4" tapered shaft?
key.jpg
key bottoming out in UFLEX V26
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Mon Apr 16, 2018 6:40 pm

Glued on the aft port and starboard coverboards.

They were resawed on a bandsaw and then sanded on a wide belt sander to 0.120"

I used west system 105+205+403 for the glue

I used lead weights, steel plates and clamps to apply clamping pressure; it turned out just just fine :D

I tried to do a singled sided vacuum bag but there were too many corners and my seal job was too leaky for my joe woodworker vaccum press to overcome it. I may try it again on smaller parts that don't have so many funny corners to go around.

I have started on the fore stbd coverboard and got the seam pretty nice and the rounded portion has been started, needs some final shaping. I just scribed the inboard side to match the outbourd side of the curve.
Attachments
cover boards.jpg
cover board Port.jpg
cover board stbd.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby mrintense » Wed Apr 18, 2018 5:42 pm

Looking good Jim. I think these fiberglass/wood hybrids look decidedly cool. A way to get something different than the normal and one which will garner lots of questions.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build


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