16' Ski Boat Restoration

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Milhouse
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Location: San Diego, CA

Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sun Jul 01, 2018 10:32 am

Thanks for giving it a look Fred; I appreciate it! I have ordered the thermostat. $24 for shipping though sheesh! I am spoiled in the time of amazon.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Jul 14, 2018 1:00 pm

It was 110 in San Diego last weekend...I did not work on the boat at all and instead fixed the hot tub (to use as a mini swimming pool) Rats chewed through cables, leaking jets...Works now!.

Back working on the boat toaday..Still too darn hot but made some progress on the dash posted in theVarnishing thread
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:32 pm

I spent the better part of the HOT day getting the motor aligned to the shaft coupling. There was some blood, sweat and swearing...after I thought it was perfect and I tightened and loctited the bolts it shifted just enough to make it out of tolerance again :oops: :oops: . Tried about 10 times and I finally got it < 0.003" so I'm happy with it.

There are no fancy screw adjusters on this motor and there were 0.040" shims and they didn't provide enough resolution to dial it in to tolerance so the trick was getting these Stainless Steel shims from McMaster. This allowed me to make finer adjustments. I was able to cut the shims using sheers and I drilled out the hole in the shim with a Christmas tree but backed up with a piece of 2x4 im my vice and it worked quite well and went smoothly.
Attachments
20180714_150746 (1).jpg
mounts1.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Jul 14, 2018 6:44 pm

I also test fit the thermostat and found tat the Oil fill / Breather Vent is in the way of the sbd water inlet/outlet. I'll have to figure something out there, maybe get a new pipe and bend it or add a angled piece?
Attachments
fill2.jpg
fill.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

PeterG
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by PeterG » Sun Jul 15, 2018 8:02 am

I'm not seeing any useful purpose for that housing tab on your engine. Maybe grind it to clear the breather pipe? Otherwise like you said a custom made breather pipe is needed. OR, maybe replacement valve covers with breather connections and a plug for that spot? Sorry, reaching for suggestions and they're each sounding more expensive than the last :lol:
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sun Jul 15, 2018 10:36 am

Peter - Thanks for the ideas.

The tab is indeed not useful (not sure why they put in on there) but its not the issue. The issue is that the filler/breather tube is blocking some of the ports on the thermostat housing. If I flip it around it looks like the intake runner will be in the way but it might work depending on the fitting used. Im going to ask some local machine shops if they can bend a custom tube.

I like the look of the old fashioned non-vented valve covers :D so I would rather not vent them (or get replacements sine these are the original 1962 ones (I painted them though and put a replacement decals on) but yep if I can't bend a breather tube ill probably have to go that way.

This engine originally had a draft tube but I am adding a PCV Valve in the draft tube location.

I put the carb wedge,adapter plate and the carb on for a test fit looks good (complicated bolting process!) I'm not sure what side I want the throttle on yet (i.e. flip the carb around or not?)

Got the Distributor dropped in temporarily.
Attachments
Motor side.jpg
motor100.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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hoodman
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by hoodman » Sun Jul 15, 2018 4:06 pm

This is an ignorant question: why is the oil fill vented? Don't you need oil pressure? Sorry, I just want to learn.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

PeterG
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by PeterG » Sun Jul 15, 2018 4:32 pm

Of course! The ports on the housing! Duh. I missed that! I got nothin except a different shape fill/vent tube.
Matt - the engine oil is circulated by the oil pump which sucks it up from the oil pan and pushes it through the oil passages in the block to the crankshaft, camshaft and rocker arms and squirted on the undersides of the pistons. The oil flows by gravity back to the oil pan. The engine interior is basically full of air that is vented to the outside through that vent/fill, to prevent a build up of pressure. There is some blowby past the piston rings so gases could build up too. Older boat motors were simply vented, but cars and boats since the late 1960s have positive crankcase ventilation which sucks the gases out of the engine and into the intake manifold.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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Rich Coey
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Rich Coey » Sun Jul 15, 2018 7:10 pm

If you used some 90 degree fittings on the thermostat housing would that work ?

Rich

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Mon Jul 16, 2018 4:41 pm

Peter - Great explanation.

Rich - I'ts only about 1/2" away so it would be too tight I think.

I talked to an exhaust fab shop and they said they would weld me up a section of pipe using something like this with a jog in it so I can get the fill tube farther away.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Tue Jul 24, 2018 10:34 pm

Got the new marine certified spark sealed starter in but the nose was not quite "clocked" correctly. The nose needs to be rotated about 20 deg. The people at North County Rebuilders were great and sent it back to the machine shop to mill the mounting holes so that it would fit.
Attachments
starter.jpg
Bit of a difference 1962 vs 2018 size/weight wise!
starter1.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sun Jul 29, 2018 6:34 pm

Worked for a few hours today getting the rear of the boat past the end of the trailer in preparation to pull the trailer out from under her.

Procedure:
1. Lowered the tongue to get the aft end up to allow room for the boat stands in the rear
2. Put Brownell boat stands in the rear and lift the aft end off the bunks. They worked Great lifted with ease (really 100% terrible paint job; For being made in the USA it is a bit sad...)
3. Hoist the bow off with the gantry and the sling. I used two 6500 lb slings from harbor freight and connected their ends together with a choker loop. Probably not the best as I'm sure the knot derated the sling capacity, but it worked with no issues.
4. Push the trailer forward (I had to lean up against my shop and leg press it forward :) (I should have probably got the truck but how heavy can the trailer alone be with 4 flat tires.... :D )
5. Call the wife over to have her chock the wheels to they don't slide back into their craters like they were doing.
6. sweat a lot in the crazy heat
7. Lower the aft end back on the bunks and move the aft stands forward and repeat 4-7
8. Repeat 7 (especially step 6)
9. Lower it back down and rejoice that the stands are now clear of the rear of the trailer and ready to pull the trailer after work (hopefully this week) with the help of a few friends to make it go a bit faster ans smoother than today.

I will have two sets of 4x4s stacked in a log cabin style under the boat on the keel to support the weight and the aft stands and some SB4 Brownell forward stands to keep it from tipping over.

The gantry with the dual chain hoists worked great to keep the load off the sides of the boat (there was still a bit of pressure due to the angle but it was much less than if i only had one center hoist).
Attachments
prelift.jpg
Gantry Setup
aft pre lift.jpg
Stand position when I started
aft post lift.jpg
Stand position when I finished
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Mon Jul 30, 2018 8:51 pm

Score! Got the boat off the trailer without incident with the help of a few friends today after work. I am super excited to have a few new major activities to tackle (trailer restoration and hull painting). Anyone recommend a particular axles and trailer brakes supplier or brand? The axles seem like they are in pretty good shape but I'm not sure if they are funky sized spindles or not yet.

Procedure
1. Lifted aft of boat off the trailer with rear stands
2. Lifted bow off with gantry (ensuring that the boat is lifted high enough off the trailer so that the lifting strap will not interfere with the trailer).
3. Pulled trailer out with the help of a few friends (one watching the rear of the boat to ensure the rear stands don't move)
4. Put the front side supports close as a safety measure
5. put the Keel supports in
6. lower boat onto keel supports shim as necessary
7. Adjust front supports and add safety chain between them.
8. Try and wiggle boat and observe it is rock solid!!
9. Drink beers!

I still have the lifting strap on there "just in case" but I don't really think it is needed at all and will probably just get in the way and will be removed later.
Attachments
off trailer1.jpg
off trailer side.jpg
trailer.jpg
Last edited by Milhouse on Tue Jul 31, 2018 7:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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mrintense
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by mrintense » Tue Jul 31, 2018 5:21 am

Very cool Jim. It's amazing how much your hull looks like mine. Very similar shape.

Trailer looks like a decent project to tackle. Something about restoring things always makes me want to try it. But its not like I don't have enough to do already!! :D :D

I've been considering a used trailer and used motor versus new or near new for both as way to customize both to the boat and not go into hock for a king's ransom. But, I also really really want to get my boat to a usable state.

Anyway, looks like you have all this figured out and I look forward to seeing the continuing efforts on your part to bring this beauty back to life.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

Clipper's Vera Cruise Build

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Post by Milhouse » Sat Aug 11, 2018 3:25 pm

Got the marine starter installed (took a few trips to machine shop to get the nose mounting holes correct) the stock holes were wrong no matter what way i tuned it. After some new holes it fits and is in a reasonable position (not my first choice but at least I can get all the bolt in).

Got the oil filter cooling line and filter installed; used Parker Push-lok fittings and hose

I put oil (Shell Rotella 10W-30 and Engine Pro Hi-Zinc additive) in the engine I and used the old distributor with the cam gear and other stuff removed to prime the oil pressure with a drill. Quickly found where the oil pressure sender goes :shock: with oil spewing out the hole.

Added the oil pressure switch in to plug it for now and tested it out. Once it gets pressure it closes the N/O contacts but I noticed that it takes awhile (~1 min) for the N/C contacts to re-close after oil pressure loss. The N/C is the connection that allows the fuel pump to energize when there is no oil pressure to allow you to start the engine when the switch is in the crank position. This makes me worry about trying to restart the engine if it would die; I would not want to wait a minute to be able to try and get it restarted. I'll have to look into this more...

I verified that oil was getting pumped out of all the push rods. Had a quick scare because one was dry. After taking the rocker off, removing the push rod and wiggling it around on the lifter and blowing out the push rod in case there was a blockage I was able to see oil pumping out of it; whew.

Observed that my remote oil filter connection to the engine block is leaking. After focusing on the DMM when testing the switch as described above I saw a pool of oil in the bilge and freaked out a tad :shock: :oops: Looks like it will have to remove the remote filter plate and try to reseal it.
Attachments
starter.jpg
filter1.jpg
sender.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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