16' Ski Boat Restoration

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Locutus
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Locutus » Wed Dec 06, 2017 2:08 pm

Bilgekote is a good product but make sure you do proper surface prep and the right primer. I found out from the manufacturer that you can't apply it directly to an epoxy substrate, and that that same epoxy substrate needs a special two-part primer before applying the Bilgekote. Other surfaces need different pre-treatment/primer. When you're ready to apply Bilgekote I strongly recommend contacting Bilgekote's manufacturer (Interlux) first. Don't listen to the retailer who says you can apply it directly to fiberglass (as two different retailers told me.)

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Wed Dec 06, 2017 10:53 pm

Thanks for the tip!
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Fri Dec 08, 2017 11:13 pm

Going to pull the trigger on another big $$$ order for more parts soon to get some stuff ready for me to wire up my dash and paint the bilge over the Christmas break. It really adds up restoring a boat; is this supposed to stay a secret? :D ! Wire, Terminal Lugs, Terminal Blocks, hydraulic Battery Lug Crimper, bilge paint (and all the prep stuff for it), Starting battery, varnish, bunch of electrical switches, all new gauges (Faria Euro: GPS Speedo, fuel, volt, amp, tach, oil pres, water temp), more sandpaper!

I will have two fuel tanks: Any opinion on two fuel gauges vs one gauge and a switch? I have seen some other posts and it seems like one gauge with a switch is more common. Pros/Cons?

I'm might try out these guys for the wire, I have read good things and its a few bucks cheaper than ancor. They say that its pretty much the same darn cable and it lets me buy it in shorter lengths for the less common colors.I'm going to try and use all official USCG/ABYC colors, except the striped colors are hard to find (yellow with red stripe for the starting solenoid circuit, impossible to find!)...Ooh I just saw that they make custom battery cables so maybe I don't need that Hydraulic lug crimper after all!!

I also was reading this post about the Neutral Safety Switch. Turns out that my Velvet Drive does not have one but I can get a conversion kit for $130, is this safety feature a must have? Dumb question i'm sure....I suppose its like the switch that does not let me start my truck with a manual transmission without the clutch in; 99.999% of the time its not needed but that 0.001% when I'm not paying attention and try to start it in gear it pays off. Of course it comes with the gasket that I just custom made...
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

neel thompson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby neel thompson » Sat Dec 09, 2017 6:00 am

It is a must and please don't ask me how I know !!

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:44 am

Thanks Neel, I just ordered it.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Sun Dec 10, 2017 12:29 am

I just 3D modeled the dash; this is the first draft. The steering wheel is just a free 3D model that I found, looks pretty cool though! I modeled everything else myself in Solidworks (the faces were added by taking screenshots of JPGs from pics online). The benefit with the model (besides just being able to play with it and see what it might look like) is that I will then use this to generate a file to laser cut out a full size template to route out the holes. :D

The steering wheel has been placed where it was before but it seems like it should go a few inches to the left; I'll have to sit it in to see if it should move or not. Or maybe all the gauges should move right, but the GPS and Tach are nice and centered now....

The 4" gauge on the left is a JBL Stereo head unit, I think the round form factor is a cool addition.

The Cole Hersee switches are for 1. Horn (momentary), 2. Nav Lights (three position, off, nav+anchor, anchor only), 3. Instrument Lights (SPST), 4. Possible LED lights under the gunwales (SPST).

Steering is done with a cable so I will have to make sure that it does not hit the gauges.

Any Suggestions or Recommendations?

I don't have a depth sounder (yet) but I'm wondering if its a good idea so I added it to the model to see what it might look like. Opinions on them, Must have? Nice to have? Waste of $$?

I have two tanks so the two fuel gauges could be one gauge with a switch to save some room...
Attachments
dash.jpg
Dashboard 3D Model
dash close up.jpg
Gauge Closeup 3D Model
origional.jpg
Original Dashboard
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Bill Edmundson » Sun Dec 10, 2017 10:31 am

Jim

I don't know what kinds of water you run in. But, our depth can change quickly. I sure feel better with a simple depth gauge as you're showing.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

Steven r
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Location: UK Dorset

Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Steven r » Sun Dec 10, 2017 12:34 pm

Hi Jim,
In the last forty odd years I have never needed a neutral switches the controls say neutral, I do not have fuel gauges on three diesel tanks I have maghony stick I dip the tanks! I no she does 1.25 mpg of diesel 23 gallons per hour. Electronics it is fully loaded but still plot with paper charts I always no where we are! :lol:
Regards Steve

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Tue Dec 12, 2017 9:35 am

Should the ignition switch be on the opposite side as the throttle so that I can "pump the gas" with my right hand and turn the key with my left?
I noticed that they key was on the left side originally but I just thought the guy may have been left handed; thinking about it more there may have been another reason?

It has a carbureted 327 and if its anything like my 302 in my 67 Falcon it will take a bit of "pumping the gas" to get it started...

It will have an electric fuel pump with the required N/O oil pressure switch to shut it off when the motor is off and cranking bypass to allow fuel to get pumped when cranking and I was thinking of adding a momentary switch to prime the line and fill the carb bowls to make starting it more reliable and reduce engine wear. I suppose that would go on the right hand side as that will be depressed prior to cranking.

Still also wondering about 1 fuel gauge with a a switch or two gauges any opinions on that?
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Fri Dec 15, 2017 6:02 pm

I picked up the tanks today and test fit them. They fit pretty nicely! There is a bit of a gap in the back where the hull bows out but I think they look pretty good.

I will glass them in, after I paint the bilge, following the directions in the Aluminum Tank Thread.

The pickup is in the back so I will need to plumb up to the engine. I also need to figure out a system to connect the two tanks together and also need to determine where the heck to put the electric fuel pump. They say it should be below the level of the tank (push vs pull) but obviously that is not going to happen...
Attachments
20171215_165024.jpg
20171215_165035.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Fri Dec 15, 2017 7:19 pm

Neutral Safety Switch Bracket, gasket, and switch received, painted and installed. Very easy install (for once :D).
Attachments
nss installed.jpg
NSS.jpg
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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JoeM
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby JoeM » Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:23 pm

Milhouse wrote:Should the ignition switch be on the opposite side as the throttle so that I can "pump the gas" with my right hand and turn the key with my left?
I noticed that they key was on the left side originally but I just thought the guy may have been left handed; thinking about it more there may have been another reason?

It has a carbureted 327 and if its anything like my 302 in my 67 Falcon it will take a bit of "pumping the gas" to get it started...

It will have an electric fuel pump with the required N/O oil pressure switch to shut it off when the motor is off and cranking bypass to allow fuel to get pumped when cranking and I was thinking of adding a momentary switch to prime the line and fill the carb bowls to make starting it more reliable and reduce engine wear. I suppose that would go on the right hand side as that will be depressed prior to cranking.

Still also wondering about 1 fuel gauge with a a switch or two gauges any opinions on that?


Looking good.

I don't know about the key placement. Sorry but I'll have to defer to someone a little more versed in that.

I personally would think about what other gauges I need/want and the space and layout of them. Then I'd decide on 1 or 2 gauges depending on what works best visually. In my opinion, there is no ONE right way to do it. Only personal preferences.

edit: for what it's worth, after looking at your modeling of your panel I would use two gauges since it doesn't look like you have any other toggle switches near the fuel gauges and that might look out of place. Just my opinion though.
Check out my project and blog! http://fv-escape-hatch.com/project

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JoeM
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby JoeM » Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:39 pm

Milhouse wrote:I picked up the tanks today and test fit them. They fit pretty nicely! There is a bit of a gap in the back where the hull bows out but I think they look pretty good.

I will glass them in, after I paint the bilge, following the directions in the Aluminum Tank Thread.

The pickup is in the back so I will need to plumb up to the engine. I also need to figure out a system to connect the two tanks together and also need to determine where the heck to put the electric fuel pump. They say it should be below the level of the tank (push vs pull) but obviously that is not going to happen...


Also, just noticed this. I put the relevant part in bold.

Do you mean a system to connect them so fuel flows from one to the other to balance out? Or are you talking about a system of hoses and valves to be able to select which tank is pulled from?

I would check to make sure you are not going against regulations. Diesel tanks can be connected so as to allow them to balance out. Gas tanks, not so much. http://www.uscgboating.org/regulations/assets/builders-handbook/FUELSYSTEM1.pdf
Check out my project and blog! http://fv-escape-hatch.com/project

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Fri Dec 15, 2017 8:55 pm

Joe - I thought about doing self balancing but didn't know that was frowned upon; I'll read the spec.

Thanks for the link.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz

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Milhouse
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Re: 16' Ski Boat Restoration

Postby Milhouse » Fri Dec 15, 2017 9:51 pm

My word...Every time I pick up a new USCG spec I get scared!

I didn't get a fancy label per 183.510 so I need to ask my fabricator about that...

183.564 Fuel tank fill system.
(a) Each fuel fill opening must be located so that a gasoline overflow of up to five gallons per minute for at least five seconds will not enter the boat when the boat is in its static floating position.
So it looks like I need to investigate how to do that (see pic of where the fills were located before), perhaps I can add a splash guard?

Bill - Did you test 183.564 on your Tahoe? I see what looks like the fuel fill really close to a vent.

Joe - I don't see a spec about self leveling tanks (can you point me to that section). I do see a spec that the electric fuel pump needs to be < 12" from the engine so that helps narrow down where I put it.

How did you all design your "flame arrestors" on your fuel vent per 183.505

183.505
A flame arrestor for a fuel tank may be a specially designed fitting with flame arresting elements,
such as screens, or the vent tubing may itself be effective.

Does anyone have an opinion on water separators / filter?

What did you use to add a bead to the fuel line per 183.530

183.530 Spud, pipe, and hose fitting configuration.
Except when used for a tank fill line, each spud, pipe, or hose fitting used with hose clamps must have:
(a) A bead;
(b) A flare; or
(c) A series of annular grooves or serrations no less than 0.015 inches deep, except a continuous helical thread, knurl, or groove.
Attachments
spec.jpg
overflow.jpg
Perhaps if i add a little splash guard ill be OK?
tahoe.jpg
Bill's Tahoe
tahoe.jpg (28.56 KiB) Viewed 152 times
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

I'd rather have a $h!tty meal than an $h!tty resume because a totally awesome resume will feed me steak one day - Steve Poltz


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