Waterpump Install Question

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

User avatar
woodruff
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:38 am
Location: Marysville, CA
Contact:

Waterpump Install Question

Postby woodruff » Thu Apr 26, 2007 11:18 pm

I am getting ready to install a midengine V8 into my wood speed boat and need to know if anyone has any information on how the water system is to be hooked up. The engine will sit flywheel aft and I have a couple bronze water pumps to install. No cam driven pumps. These will need to be belt driven. I have the pulley and pump and engine/trany mounts. The tranny is a Paragon Hydraulic Reverse transmission with a tranny oil cooler. The boat has two hull water pickups installed. Do the water pickups hook to the water pumps or are these just forced water into the exhaust and the water comes from somewhere else? I think the water pickups are hooked to the pumps and the water is recirculated out through the tranny oil cooler and then out the exhausts. These are out the hull exhausts. The Exhausts are Edelbrocks for the SMC or GM V8.

http://inertext.homeunix.com/flatbottom

Some of the setup is already set for water but I am unsure of all that is required. Is there a place on the web with the information and visuals to look at?

woodruff

User avatar
kens
Posts: 4445
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 5:25 pm
Location: Coastal Georgia

Postby kens » Fri Apr 27, 2007 3:00 am

The common waterflow setup would be, first the water pickup in the hull, then to a seacock, or cutoff valve, then to a strainer, then to the beltdriven raw water pump.
The raw water pump supplies flow to the tranny cooler, then thermostat housing where the engine driven circulating pump gets it water from the thermostat; the rest of the raw water goes to the manifolds.
The raw water pump supplies more water than the thermostat can use, so the excess is cold water for the manifolds. Warm water discharge usually goes to the manifolds, and eventually all the water goes overboard via the exhaust elbow.
This is a common setup, but manifold manufacturers sometimes have their own way of running the plumbing.

Caber_Feidh
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:25 am
Location: Frozen to the shop floor
Contact:

Postby Caber_Feidh » Sat Apr 28, 2007 11:52 pm

What type of thermostat are you planning?

From the look of the plumbing left in your pix it appears that it was not setup with a 4-port. Not uncommon to just see a splitter on top of the manifolds on that old stuff.

You don't need any engine circulation pump with the proper sea pump, adding one is just making a place for more leaks to occur later. Automotive pumps don't like raw water. (assuming you are not using a closed system)
For some reason my boat was much faster before GPS came about

User avatar
woodruff
Posts: 59
Joined: Tue Oct 12, 2004 12:38 am
Location: Marysville, CA
Contact:

Postby woodruff » Sun Apr 29, 2007 5:59 am

I will post some pic of what I have. The orginal had one raw water pump setup and hoses coming in from the manifold to where the standard water pump would normally connect. I will be removing the standard water pump and use a raw water pump. I actually now have two raw water pumps that I can use. I will get a pic of the headers with the water pump and hoses that are still attached.


woodruff

Caber_Feidh
Posts: 157
Joined: Sun Aug 13, 2006 11:25 am
Location: Frozen to the shop floor
Contact:

Postby Caber_Feidh » Sun Apr 29, 2007 12:16 pm

On most jet setups we skip the thermostat completely. It's usually just another thing to break (usually by sticking shut, and cooking the engine) Automotive 'stats are not designed to be left unsubmerged, but in a boat app they will be, in comes a little corrosion, and there goes the motor when it sticks, and you don't notice it right away. :cry:

Have the motor shop set the clearances .001-.002 greater when they hone the jugs. That will compensate for the cool water temps without a stat. (.003-.004 for forged slugs.)

If I were building it, I would far rather see the $ spent on oil temp monitor, and control, it's FAR more important to the engine. Auto engines of any sort are not setup with proper oiling systems for producing sustained high power levels. Pan capacity alone doesn't do it, you NEED a cooler, and gauge. (also good time to add remote filters, much easier to change without dumping oil in the boat.)

Fresh Water>>>-----> *Pump* >>>----> *Engine Oil Cooler* >>>----> *Trans Oil Cooler* >>>>-----> *Split to E Manifolds*>>>---> *Exh Manifold* >>>---> Into Block >>>---> Out splitter (thermostat housing) >>>---> into riser.

Dual pumps may be more of a PITA than a single, if there is much of a pressure imbalance one bank isn't going to flow well, and could conceivably not flow at all. The gauge would most likely NOT catch the problem, it would only measure the higher pressure bank. If you are still set on using two, they should be connected to a manifold before they are split to the engine.
    For some reason my boat was much faster before GPS came about


    Return to “Power Boats”

    Who is online

    Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 13 guests