Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

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BayouBengal
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby BayouBengal » Mon Mar 26, 2018 10:45 am

Wow!!!!! Looks like you have a beautiful place for boating, there.

So, are you going back with the SystemThree, or are you going to use something else?

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Mon Mar 26, 2018 6:29 pm

Jeff- Thanks we really treasure our cottage on the lake.
...on the finish, I have been pleased with the System Three SilverTip epoxy as a base for my UV topcoats. Interlux Perfection Plus varnish over the SilverTip has been my go to though and no UV protection issues. Like I mentioned earlier, no problem with the System Three LPU either, but it does not lay down as well for me or buff out as well as a solvent base product.
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:00 pm

Upon removing the rubrails, thru hulls and parts there was a chance to see how the bedding compounds performed.
All the holes that I drill-fill-drill(ed) were fine. The epoxy barrier held out all water intrusion. There was no water damage found anywhere with the 3M 4200 sealing all the screw holes under the cutwater and rubrails. Step pads, windshield brackets and cleats came up easily and protected the finish underneath using the Interlux Boatyard Bedding Compound. 100% success for these products! No changes to make here.
4200.jpeg
bedding.jpg
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

obd
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby obd » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:07 pm

Such helpful info Billy. Thanks!
Bob

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby Bill Edmundson » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:08 pm

Billy

Really good to know! Because I always wonder.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Mon Mar 26, 2018 7:48 pm

Today I did some sanding of the topsides. I tested to see what grit paper would give me the best removal rate. Settled on 40 grit to break the LPU down and cut into the weave. When the cloth first appears, move to 80 grit and sand until the weave becomes almost transparent. Switch over to 120 grit and sand to the point where mahogany areas open up. This is where it gets tricky because the mahogany is softer than the epoxy, so had to back way off to 220 grit. When the 220 is sharp (new) it removes the epoxy and does not gouge the mahogany. Looks like maybe the last pass will be hand blocking out to 120 grit which would be optimal for the new finish.
IMG_1807.jpg
...a long way to go
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Mon Mar 26, 2018 8:39 pm

Bob and Bill- thanks! will keep at the destructive thread. Hard to post pictures of such a mess with everyone else on here doing such pretty work.
Billy
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

PeterG
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby PeterG » Tue Mar 27, 2018 4:00 am

Destructive? More like Instructive! We all are rightfully focused on building our boats but maintenance is rarely covered... Keep up the great work, this is extremely helpful and thank you for sharing!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Tue Mar 27, 2018 2:19 pm

Thanks PeterG ...hope this all ends well. :D
A little ho-hum today. Sanding is going. Ran the 40 grit on the port side today.
40grit.jpg
Starboard side, the 220 RO to 120 straight line hand block sanding seems to work well and scratch patterns are going with the grain or can be easily worked out without sanding thru the strakes. ...breathing easier.
The deck is a cakewalk without the glass cloth underneath. I scraped at it and can get to the wood. I want to remove as little material possible here so the seams remain recessed. Thinking 120 RO then, when the mahogany is exposed, scrape the remaining epoxy away. Finish up hand blocking to 120.
Should be done sanding by December :roll:
IMG_1805.jpg
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

Shaunh
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby Shaunh » Wed Mar 28, 2018 12:27 am

Hi Billy

I generally hate restoration work but you are making it look easy! thanks for the tips.
Cheers
Shaun

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Jimbob
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby Jimbob » Wed Mar 28, 2018 1:33 pm

Hi Billy,
As PeterG said, your restoration is good information for all of us that are the process of building. I would assume that you will be taking the boat down to raw wood so that the new stain will take. Am I correct, or do you have other plans? With that in mind, I didn't use epoxy above the water line, only varnish. (I am fearful of the unknown) I already had to make a repair on my hull planking and it was easy to sand down and re-stain. Some have used penetrating epoxy. I wonder how that would work with a restoration that involves re staining. I really appreciate all of your postings, I like to plan WAY ahead.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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billy c
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby billy c » Wed Mar 28, 2018 6:56 pm

Thanks Shaun! I have to admit when I finally got the starboard topsides back to mahogany this afternoon, sanding those curves again was sweet!
hi Jim!
The dyes burned out on the edges of the deck planks and fiberglass cloth weave whited out. Both conditions occurred close to the wood surface, so there was no way to remove just a topcoat and refinish. My plan 9 years ago was to catch it before I had to do anything but sand off the LPU and add topcoats.
Lots of things went right though. One thing I have been able to do easily is repair the finish from gouges etc. The MO
 for gouges was clean out the area with alcohol to remove contamination. Slightly bevel the edges of the blemish with a chisel or knife. Mix a little epoxy and add some original dye color to the epoxy and fill. When dry, scrape level with the finish. Buff out the epoxy to a shine and add a coat of wax. Nearly invisible. Does not have the UV protection, but if you freshen up the topcoat at the end of the season, it will be fine.
The new plan for finish is no cloth anywhere above the waterline. Switch to stain if possible. Build fill coats with SilverTip epoxy. Finish with varnish. Not sure if I have the time to experiment with the traditional stuff so may opt for Perfection Plus.
(insert Witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

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Jimbob
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby Jimbob » Thu Mar 29, 2018 8:56 am

Good info!
Thanks for sharing.
Jim
Jim Neeley
Building a Barrelback in Sacramento, CA
viewtopic.php?f=15&t=28089#p172969

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mrintense
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby mrintense » Thu Mar 29, 2018 3:34 pm

This is a great thread Billy. As others have mentioned, we don't get a lot about the down the road upkeep requirements. Looks like she's going to shine once again.
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Restoring Glory Days a 23' Belle Isle

Postby Bill Edmundson » Thu Mar 29, 2018 7:06 pm

Billy

I agree with what Carl said!

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build


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