Malahini from MD

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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sproggy
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by sproggy » Fri Nov 23, 2018 8:24 am

Sarnian wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:57 am
Thanks Sproggy. I'd say I'm only about 3% considering this. But it's interesting to discuss. I'd wondered, given that the weight of the engine would be aft of the transom, whether this would have less effect on trim than hanging a heavy outboard off the back. Much less stress on the transom for sure. Regardless 573 is a wee bit heavy!
The weight of the motor would be forward of the transom, but not by much or, I suspect, enough to make it viable. And the weight of the outdrive would still be in the same position as an outboard. You would need to add considerable structure to support this arrangement, not least motor stringers which are less easy to work into the design at this point than they would have been earlier. And that would further add to the weight.
Sarnian wrote:
Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:57 am
If someone could just come up with a 100hp Stern drive, weighing less than 300lbs, easy to install, and small I'd be all set :D
Small, lightweight, 100hp stern-driven installations are readily available.......if you go jet drive. Again, it's a bit later than ideal to take that approach but if you don't mind taking a saw to your newly painted hull.....and a donor PWC..... Oh, easy to install, you say? :lol: It's been done before, although I don't think I've seen a jet Malahini.

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Fri Nov 23, 2018 4:51 pm

Too much for me! Outboard here I come.

Any photos of or comments about the chine blocking for the floor gratefully received.

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hoodman
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by hoodman » Fri Nov 23, 2018 6:20 pm

I didn't end up doing any chine blocking on my Geronimo. 1/2 inch plywood was mostly stiff enough between the frames and floor battens. I have blocking on either side of the frames for the floor to rest on. You might find a spot that needs some extra support down to the chines. In that case maybe do a small block in the middle. Trying to fit chine blocking the entire width between frames would be quite difficult.

I agree there is precious little info about doing the floors in these boats. It's one of those things that's a lot simpler than it seems at first. But since everyone does them differently it's hard to make suggestions.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Fri Nov 23, 2018 9:21 pm

Perfect - this is just what I wanted to hear. Blocking on either side of the frames makes sense to me. Thanks so much.

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hoodman
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by hoodman » Sat Nov 24, 2018 6:15 am

By either side of the frames I mainly mean where the gussetts are since there's nothing there for the floor to sit in.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Sat Nov 24, 2018 1:57 pm

Just thought I would post some photos...they don't show much, but I think since the last time I put anything up I have flipped. The bright sides still need some work - but I am happy with the bottom. I flipped on to a cradle made of 2x4s on casters. Basically eight friends just picked it up and turned it over...it was surprisingly easy and only cost me a dozen or so beers.

Next I put the deck beam on frame 1, then put in the floor supports - one in the middle, and one on either side, on the middle battens on port and starboard sides. These latter two were as per instructions - sistered to a piece of 1/8" ply, that was sistered to the batten. I used Douglas fir for the floor support notched into the frames - however for the center support, along the keel timber, I installed that as a T, with the riser made from 3/4" ply, and the top made of white oak or DF (depending on what I had to hand). I did not notch these into the frame, but rather epoxied and screwed in to the frames using a pocket hole. As Matt suggested I put blocking screwed and glued into each side of the frames to support the floor at the outer sides.

I have also done two good coats of CPES on the entire inside, and just started to add on a coat of epoxy. This is a pain in the butt...because it is cold, so the epoxy is rather thick. I installed a 240v garage heater last winter so that I could work (selling this to my lovely wife based on the bonus, that it would keep her car warm) and this definitely helps. Once this layer of epoxy encapsulation is finished, my plan is to finish this off with an epoxy based bilge paint, likely just on the bottom. I have a quart of total boat totalbilge on its way.
IMG_4395.jpg
IMG_4394.jpg
IMG_4393.jpg

Hercdrvr
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Hercdrvr » Sat Nov 24, 2018 6:47 pm

Straight forward construction to support the sole, I like it.
Matt B

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Mr Hot Rod
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Mr Hot Rod » Sat Nov 24, 2018 11:19 pm

To add to sproggy's post :

Several lightweight I/O's were built by Evinrude and Johnson in the 60's and 70's.

From the archives ...

Image
Mid-sixties Evinrude Playmate 90 I/O / Johnson Caprice derived from the 2-stroke, V-4, electric-shift 75-hp outboard.

OMC Boats '62-'70

OMC Boat Model Number ID Chart by Peter_Crowl

Image

See Model # DU-90 ( 290 lbs). Click image for a better view.


Johnson inboard motors
(See 88HP, 2-cycle V4)

____________________
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Kane Custom Boats Ltd.
Chelsea, Quebec

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.kanecustomboats.com
Glen-L Hot Rod build thread
Kane Custom Boats YouTube channel
Glen-L Boat Video Directory

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Sun Nov 25, 2018 8:44 am

Thanks Paul...this is great information that I would never have found. These are really interesting solutions - I wonder why the trend of manufacturing lightweight sterndrives in the 100hp range fizzled out? Reliability, ease, accessibility of outboards I would guess.

PeterG
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by PeterG » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:22 am

You're moving along nicely, can't wait to see your progress on the deck and interior. Keep up the great work!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Sun Dec 02, 2018 7:34 am

Not much progress - and traveling again, so there won't be much for a while. I did a dry fit of the sole - easier than I expected. There's still some give at the sides but I haven't decided if its enough to warrant some chine blocking. I have now moved on to the motor well, while I ponder a few things - first, how much longer can I put off the sucky task of encapsulation....second, how shall I secure the sole and allow access to the bilge. I am going to veneer the sole with African mahogany - but before that I have to make the decision about access. I'm thinking of three things regarding sole installation:

1 - screw and glue that sucker down. Who wants to see a leak anyway?
2 - screw and glue the starboard and port pieces down, screw and glue the center piece down, but create a hatch in the middle that gives at least some access
3 - as 2, except no glue, and making the screws accessible - ie screwing through the mahogany, perhaps using some nice stainless steel screws with countersink washers

Now, 3 seems like the 'proper' approach.

Anyone have any advice - in particular, any advice about how to create the hatch (support, hinge, catch, and aesthetic of hiding edges) and where exactly it will fit on the malahini? Is it possible to have a hatch that is useful in size but that still allows access without removing seats - or is that simply too small.

Perhaps I need to make the seats first.....

Anyway - a couple of photos.
IMG_4400.JPG
dry fit of sole. I used exterior grade 1/2" DF plywood
IMG_4397.jpg
Am I the only person who gets excited when total boat sends free paint pots, gloves, and stirrer sticks with my order......

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Dec 02, 2018 10:10 am

Sarnian

You could attach the sole with machine screws and Barrel or Tee Nuts. Be sure to use anti-seize or even beeswax. These can be easily removed and put back.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

PeterG
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by PeterG » Sun Dec 02, 2018 12:14 pm

Bill has a great point with the screws and tee nuts. One thought I had for my boat is to install the sole in three pieces with the center one or even all three removable for inspections and maintenance. Where the pieces of the sole butt to each other there can be a flat strip of stainless or aluminum covering the joint with the hold down screws for the sole installed through the strips. Sorta like the treatment around the engine hatches for the old runabouts, and dresses up the appearance of the sole, especially if you are installing some sort of floor treatment.

Here's an idea for supporting the outer edges of your sole pieces between the frames if you don't want to use blocking on the chines, maybe add stiffeners on the underside of the sole pieces between the frames? They will stiffen the pieces without necessarily attaching to the chines or frames. Just a thought.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Sarnian
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Sarnian » Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:17 pm

Great idea - hadn't thought of that. epoxy the the nuts in? I think I read about someone doing that on the forum somewhere.

I think I will do that. May also add a hatch for quicker access - but perhaps I'll do that as a post launch bit of work.

Thanks chaps.

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Hi from Maryland - building the Malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Sun Dec 02, 2018 3:46 pm

Sarnian

A hatch over the deepest part of the bilge is a good idea. Then you can see if you have any water. Also, one over the fuel tank sending unit is good. The sending unit can then be replaced if needed. Or, you can get any water out of the fuel tank without removing the tank.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

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