Biss's Malahini Build
Moderator: BruceDow
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Guys I appreciate the comments on the swim platforms.
Been busy clear coating the inside and painting the outside. Ended up using automotive paints, both color and clear. Been a long time since I sprayed auto paint. All the chemistries are different! Much better stuff now too. Everything is two component, which dries really fast. Works really well when you are painting outside!
Paint turned out pretty good. The color is a dark blue pearl, looks almost black in the pictures.
You can really see all the imperfections on the sides now. There is a bit of a bulge in the planking at the frames. Hopefully after i get the bumpers and other hardware on it will camouflage the flaws!
I finally ordered a motor and it should be delivered in the next week or so. While I wait on it, I'll try to knock out the electrical and get the trailer setup.
Biss
Been busy clear coating the inside and painting the outside. Ended up using automotive paints, both color and clear. Been a long time since I sprayed auto paint. All the chemistries are different! Much better stuff now too. Everything is two component, which dries really fast. Works really well when you are painting outside!
Paint turned out pretty good. The color is a dark blue pearl, looks almost black in the pictures.
You can really see all the imperfections on the sides now. There is a bit of a bulge in the planking at the frames. Hopefully after i get the bumpers and other hardware on it will camouflage the flaws!
I finally ordered a motor and it should be delivered in the next week or so. While I wait on it, I'll try to knock out the electrical and get the trailer setup.
Biss
Last edited by Biss on Sun Apr 07, 2019 3:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Looking great!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Looks fabulous Biss...I'm very jealous of the finish.
I am going for more of a dull, matte-ish finish, with hairs and dust, and other things in it for interest.
I am going for more of a dull, matte-ish finish, with hairs and dust, and other things in it for interest.

Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Nice color. Amazing how the clear finish on the dash just makes the wood pop. What did you use to apply it. nice finish.
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Thanks guys,
So the clear is a fairly cheap product I ordered online (Speepokote SMR-1150). It is a two part Acrylic Urethane. I can't compare it to more expensive 2K clears, b/c this is the first time using this type of clear. I shot it with a "high quality" Harbor Freight HVLP gun that I had bought several years ago for probably 25 bucks! The gun is not great but it got the job done. If I was shooting paint everyday, I'd probably own one of those nice 3M spray guns. Anyway, I'm really pleased with how it all turned out. I will be spraying the same clear over the deck, if I ever get it installed!
Biss
So the clear is a fairly cheap product I ordered online (Speepokote SMR-1150). It is a two part Acrylic Urethane. I can't compare it to more expensive 2K clears, b/c this is the first time using this type of clear. I shot it with a "high quality" Harbor Freight HVLP gun that I had bought several years ago for probably 25 bucks! The gun is not great but it got the job done. If I was shooting paint everyday, I'd probably own one of those nice 3M spray guns. Anyway, I'm really pleased with how it all turned out. I will be spraying the same clear over the deck, if I ever get it installed!
Biss
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
There is an important item here that can easily be looked over in the book/plans, don’t let the side planking touch the frames. My Malahini also has a bulge where it crosses frame #1. You’d think the frame would added structure for the plywood, It’s one of those counter intuitive things.
Looking good,
Matt B
Looking good,
Matt B
- Bill Edmundson
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Matt
All of mine show the planking and bottom glued to the frames. But, there are no screws or nails to the frames. Screws and nails are only to the longitudinals.
Bill
All of mine show the planking and bottom glued to the frames. But, there are no screws or nails to the frames. Screws and nails are only to the longitudinals.
Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build
Tahoe 19 Build
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
I don't know how I learn all these important things after the fact. Guess they are questions I don't know to ask. I screwed and glued all my ply to the frames. Yes, I do have humps there. I just figured that's how it goes.
Next boat. lol
Next boat. lol
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
my sides and bottom are glued (but not screwed) to the frames - glued and screwed to the longitudinals
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
This is the reference from Boat Building with Plywood, page 162.
Matt B
Matt B
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Yep, I remember reading that too. Unfortunately at the rear section the tumblehome is defined by the transom and the first frame shapes. There is no other longitudinals between the shear and chine, so I'm not sure how you would get the nice big curve without touching the first frame.
On a completely different subject, I'm starting the wiring and need to buy an ignition switch. I will be running a Mercury 60HP EFI (4 stroke). Will a generic 3 position ignition switch work (OFF-RUN-Ignition)? The only items that I plan to have on the switch will be the engine (run) and the gauges. The bilge, interior/nav lights will have their own switch. I assume since this is an EFI motor there will be no choke. All help/advice would be greatly appreciated!
Biss
On a completely different subject, I'm starting the wiring and need to buy an ignition switch. I will be running a Mercury 60HP EFI (4 stroke). Will a generic 3 position ignition switch work (OFF-RUN-Ignition)? The only items that I plan to have on the switch will be the engine (run) and the gauges. The bilge, interior/nav lights will have their own switch. I assume since this is an EFI motor there will be no choke. All help/advice would be greatly appreciated!
Biss
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Thanks for that info. I have a similar book, and I try reading it, but my reading comprehension suffers terribly, so I miss a lot. That being said, I leveled, screwed, and glued everything to the longitudinal's and frames. Too late now, but I have to admit, it's a bit concerning having learned that.
So, here is the Million dollar question; What issues can I expect from it because I did?
So, here is the Million dollar question; What issues can I expect from it because I did?
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
@ Footer,
By screwing to the frames, you have basically perforated the plywood. The plywood has a significant bending and stress across the frames, so there is now a weak spot there and you risk cracking the plywood across the frame. Of course it is ok to screw to the side edges of the transom, but it should be avoided on all the other frames.
When screwing to the longitudinals , there is less bending and stress across the battens/sheer/chine so it is not an issue in these locations.
That is my understanding. On my Squirt, the side skins do not touch Frame 2 (front of cockpit) and I made sure to fair Frame 1 (rear of cockpit) so the plywood barely touches it. The plywood is epoxied to Frame 1, but not screwed. The plywood is screwed and epoxied to the transom. Similarly on the bottom, the plywood is screwed to all of the battens, but NOT the frames.
By screwing to the frames, you have basically perforated the plywood. The plywood has a significant bending and stress across the frames, so there is now a weak spot there and you risk cracking the plywood across the frame. Of course it is ok to screw to the side edges of the transom, but it should be avoided on all the other frames.
When screwing to the longitudinals , there is less bending and stress across the battens/sheer/chine so it is not an issue in these locations.
That is my understanding. On my Squirt, the side skins do not touch Frame 2 (front of cockpit) and I made sure to fair Frame 1 (rear of cockpit) so the plywood barely touches it. The plywood is epoxied to Frame 1, but not screwed. The plywood is screwed and epoxied to the transom. Similarly on the bottom, the plywood is screwed to all of the battens, but NOT the frames.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!
- BarnacleMike
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build
What a great looking Malahini!
I absolutely love the swim platforms. I'm looking forward to seeing how you attach them to the transom. Please share some detailed pics when you do!
That's a potential game-changer for my Zip build. GREAT job on that!
I absolutely love the swim platforms. I'm looking forward to seeing how you attach them to the transom. Please share some detailed pics when you do!
That's a potential game-changer for my Zip build. GREAT job on that!
"How long does it take to build a boat? Until it's finished" — yours truly
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!
Why did the boatbuilder get a divorce? Because he didn't have enough clamps to hold his marriage together!
Re: Biss's Malahini Build
Got my motor today! No excuses now
