Biss's Malahini Build

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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Hercdrvr
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Hercdrvr » Tue Oct 16, 2018 5:28 am

I don’t use duct tape, it’s too sticky and leaves a gooey mess behind. Blue painters tape is my choice. I just did my Barrelback a few days ago, came out very sharp and neat. Key is, Cut it as soon as it will cut without dragging the glass.
Matt B
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Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Tue Oct 16, 2018 6:25 am

Thanks for the replies. Using the tape works perfectly; makes for a really nice edge. I will be feathering the edge along the keel and applying the other side tonight. I'm using System3 Silvertip w/ fast hardener. Apparently this epoxy system does not produce the amine blush and has a recoat window of 72hrs. Unfortunately I will not get all the fiberglass on in that 72hr window so I'll need to sand or add an additional coat of epoxy the sides before applying the glass.

This is the first time glassing a boat, so I'm learning as I go. I really appreciate all the info on the forum and everyone that contributes; it really is a huge benefit to building a Glen-L design.


Thanks!

Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sat Oct 20, 2018 12:42 pm

Well, Ive been busy fiberglassing this week. I finished applying glass Thursday night. I sanded the entire hull this morning. Basicslly feathered the glass overlaps and knocked down the high spots. I then applied a coat of epoxy to all the surfaces. I came up with a pretty good technique for applying an even coat of epoxy. I made a noched "trowel" out of a plastic putty knife. On the horizontal surfaces I basically poured the glue on and used the notched putty knife to evenly spread out the glue, pretty much like you would spread thinset for tile. I then used a foam roller to flaten out the epoxy. I did the same for the vertical surfaces, but used the roller to get the glue on the surface then used the trowel to spread, then rolled again to flaten it all out. Worked really well to get a nice even coat of epoxy. I posted some pics but they are not much different than earlier ones, since all I'm doing is adding glass and epoxy!
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Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Fri Oct 26, 2018 4:16 pm

Starting to think about paint... I'm planning to prime and paint with system 3. I will be priming with their yacht primer and top with wr lpu. I assume a gallon will be plenty for the primer, but I'm not sure about the bottom paint. Does anybody know how much paint it takes to cover the bottom to the waterline for the malahini.

PeterG
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by PeterG » Fri Oct 26, 2018 8:09 pm

If you do a rough area, call it 100 square feet (it's not quite that much but a good figure to work with) then follow the manufacturer's coverage rate for a couple of coats. At the recommended 350-400 sq ft per gallon, you should be good with two quarts for two coats?
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sat Oct 27, 2018 5:28 am

Thanks! That is what I was thinking as well, but thought I ask those that have used this system just in case it covered differently than advertised.

Thanks again. -Biss

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hoodman
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by hoodman » Sat Oct 27, 2018 5:39 am

You might as well get a gallon as the quarts are at least $50 a pop. A cool rainy day is the best to get the stuff to flow out the best and keep a wet edge. I found that tipping with a real quality brush was better than a cheap foam one. Something like a 2.5 or 3 inch Purdy are great brushes available anywhere.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sat Oct 27, 2018 6:41 am

Yeah, I agree. Is there any benefit to spraying this system? I have the equipment, just didn't know if there was a big improvement in finish. Also is there any need to prime ahead of the topcoat. Sounds like this paint can go right over the epoxy. The only benefit i see is it would give me more opportunity to build up and get a smoother surface.

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hoodman
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by hoodman » Sat Oct 27, 2018 7:12 am

Spraying probably would give a better finish but I haven't tried that. You can go right over a good clean sanded epoxy surface. I did not use the prier but suggest that if you are doing red I would suggest using the primer as it doesn't hide well. I used Camano Red on the bottom and Whidbey white for the topsides. A lot of folks resort to wet sanding, buffing and polishing the stuff afterward. Spraying will probably get you closer to the desired finish right off the bat but I can't advise you on spraying. Don't get too wrapped up in how the bottom looks. It's just practice for the topsides and you won't really see most of that surface after the flip.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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DrBryanJ
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by DrBryanJ » Sun Oct 28, 2018 4:06 pm

I used less than 1/2 gallon of yacht primer. Can't remember how many coats, but at least 3. I have used 2/3 a gallon of wr-lpu, but that is for 8 coats.
If can be sprayed. If I remember correctly, that is their recommended application method. They recommend starting with 20% thinning with clean water for spraying. I rolled and tipped.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sun Oct 28, 2018 6:00 pm

Thanks guys for the advice. I just got done with a final rough sanding and it appears to be pretty flat and smooth. So im thinking i will just skip the primer. I will get a gallon of white paint, and it looks like I can probably shoot three coats on the entire hull. After the flip I'll block/paint the sides down to the water line. Probably going to go with Lopez Blue on the sides.

Still need to put the skeg and spray rails on firtst though!

bstrong
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by bstrong » Fri Nov 02, 2018 8:11 am

Hi Biss,
I have been following your build as you are quite a bit ahead of me. I was looking at the material list for the malihini and it suggests 1/4 planking for the sides and 3/8 for the bottom. My question to you is did you have any problem mating it up at the seam or do you just sand it down fair? I am assuming the spray rail will hide this seam anyway. I am hoping to finish it bright on the sides so will look for 10' lengths so I will only have 1 seam. Thanks and keep up the good work! Fletchers Malahini

Biss
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Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sat Nov 03, 2018 2:25 pm

You should be fine with the bottom to side planking interface. The drawings and plans detail the transition joint and as you said the spray rail will cover anyway. Also if you paint below the waterline you will cover most of the joint with paint. Im painting the entire hull so I haven't been too concerned with 'perfect' fitment. I can certainly see that finishing bright is much more difficult. Best of luck, and I look forward to seeing your progress!

Biss
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Location: Camden, AR

Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Thu Nov 08, 2018 4:14 pm

Well I got the spray rails and skeg installed. Im plannig to paint the hull in the morning. I was reading the application guide for the WR-LPU, and it doesn't recommend conventional cup spray gun setups such as HVLP. That was what i was planning to use! Has anyone used a hvlp gun to spray this paint? Seems like i could thin with distilled water and it would spray just fine... any advice?

Biss
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Joined: Fri Apr 27, 2018 1:11 pm
Location: Camden, AR

Re: Biss's Malahini Build

Post by Biss » Sat Nov 10, 2018 8:48 am

Well, I got the paint on the hull. I started with the roll and tip method. After the first coat I decided to shoot the remaining coats. It went pretty well, but I do understand why they don't recommend the cup sprayers. It is somewhat difficult to get enough wet paint down so it can flow out to a flat gloss finish. I will need to sand and buff to get the finish to where I'd like it to be. Anyway, glad to have this part done. I guees the next step is to sand/buff bottom, sand sides and then mark the waterline. Then the flip! Blue side paint will come later (after flip).
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