The Fletchers Malahini

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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PeterG
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by PeterG » Sat Nov 24, 2018 12:24 pm

I recommend making scarf joints for the sheers and chines and placing those joints as far back as you can from the bow. That's because there will be less curvature or bend in them when installed. That said, you should offset the scarf joints of the laminations within the same sheer or chine. Try about a 1 foot minimum offset, and two feet would be better. Your wood will dictate where the scarf joints will be. If I remember correctly, I had 11 foot stock for my sheers, so I made 11 foot plus 9 foot pieces for each lamination of the sheers. With the scarf joints they we're about just over 19 feet long. When I install the sheers, I will make sure the outer lamination scarf joint is furthest from the bow, and the inner lamination flipped end for end so the scarf joints won't be together. I did not make my chines from laminations, but they do have scarf joints which will be located toward the back of the boat.
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Sun Nov 25, 2018 10:53 am

Thank you! That was a great explanation, helped the mouse get to the cheese, happy building :D

bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Sun Dec 09, 2018 10:43 am

Baby its cold outside!!! It has been to cold to play in the shop lately, been thinking about getting a heater. I did take the advise of a post here, can't remember who but they suggested upgrading your jigsaw if you have one of those little red ones. So after struggling with my current one to this point I put it on my Christmas list :D . I did manage to get the chines glued and screwed, if the weather gets back into the 40's I will start on the shears. Have a great Christmas everyone! :D :D
chines.jpg

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hoodman
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by hoodman » Sun Dec 09, 2018 12:02 pm

Looking good! Those tank top propane heaters are pretty cheap and put out a lot of heat. And convenient if you already have a gas grill.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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sproggy
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by sproggy » Mon Dec 10, 2018 2:50 am

I had a propane heater but sold it partly because the fumes mean you have to keep a window/door open (kind of defeats the object of heating the space in the first place) and partly because they create HUGE amounts of condensation and my garage gets damp enough in winter without any help. Mine was a 'blown' one (electric fan) which made it very effective but also very noisy which I hated - I like to listen to music while I work.

If I decide to heat my garage again I'll use electric radiant heaters - silent, clean and they don't increase moisture. A wood burner would be ideal but in a building made entirely of, and filled with, wood I could see that going badly wrong.... This winter's work is fairing, though, which I figure will keep me warm enough without any heating.

bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Mon Dec 10, 2018 10:09 am

I think I will go for the tank top heater, I need something that will take the edge off quickly . Also I have a lot of ventilation going on being it is only a shelter strapped to the side of a shop. It will never be warm in there, but if I can take the chill off where I'm work that would be enough.

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hoodman
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by hoodman » Tue Dec 11, 2018 7:45 pm

Yeah, that's the main thing. You're not going to run one of those heaters all night or even unattended. I used to use the propane heater to ease the chill and then an electric heater on low to help epoxy cure if needed.
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by Bill Edmundson » Wed Dec 12, 2018 7:47 am

As said, the big problem with gas heaters is moisture (and chance of CO). Depending on what you're doing the moisture may not be that big an issue.

With epoxy, may be a little cloudy and will cure out fine. You might also get a little blush.

Polyurethanes actually need some humidity to cure out properly.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
Tahoe 19 Build

bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:19 pm

I have the chine and shear finished, the battens are cut and waiting until fairing is complete. My tool of destruction for fairing so far has been a belt sander with 4o grit ceramic belts. If there is such a thing as a fairing fairy I want one of those for Christmas :D .
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mrintense
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by mrintense » Tue Dec 18, 2018 4:39 pm

Oh oh, another fast build! :D :D Looking great so far. If you think fairing is fun, wait toil you get to the sanding!! :lol:
Carl
a.k.a. Clipper

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise named "Some Other Time"

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PeterG
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by PeterG » Tue Dec 18, 2018 8:30 pm

Looks great! Nice faired chines and sheers. Keep us posted!
Murphy's Law: Anything that can go wrong, will go wrong.
Griffin's Law: Murphy was an optimist.

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DrBryanJ
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by DrBryanJ » Wed Dec 19, 2018 4:03 am

looks nice. Another malahini build that will zoom past mine.
Bryan

Building a malahini "Mona Lisa"

My wife said "If I build a boat, she's getting a divorce."

bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Wed Jan 02, 2019 12:03 pm

Hope everyone had a great holiday!! I am back to the build, I have the fairing finished and have rough cut the sides. I will be working on the butt joints. I want to finish bright and I wasn't confident enough to get my joints nice enough on the side so I am using a a/b marine grade fir then going to put a veneer on top. I called west system and asked about using non marine grade veneer and they said as long as it is coated with epoxy it is marine grade. If this is true it opens up a plethora of choices for me. Has anyone else walked this path before? Could I be asking for trouble? I found a site that sells 10' rolls of every veneer imageable. I was thinking lighter on the sides with mahogany bumper rail and spray rail to hide the seam.

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Milhouse
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by Milhouse » Wed Jan 02, 2019 6:49 pm

If you get commercial veneer it will be pretty thin (~0.025") you will need to have your substrate faired nicely before you veneer it so you don't risk sanding through. Will you be single side vacuum pressing it or other means to glue it on? I would also be worried about having something so thin on the hull if you needed to repair it later (scratch or dent?).

I used commercial veneer on my dash and put epoxy and varnish over it and I consider it "marine grade" now but its not sitting in the water like your hull will be.

For my deck I made my own "shopsawn" veneer at about 0.140" thick so I didn't have to worry about sanding through or being delicate with it.
Jim
16' Ski Boat Restoration
17' Overnighter Sloop

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bstrong
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Re: The Fletchers Malahini

Post by bstrong » Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:56 am

I still think I will try the veneer, I ordered some samples today and I talked to my wood guy and he seems to think I can do it. Been busy getting the final panels fitted, those front ones sure need some coaxing. Lots of work before the veneer goes on, fairing and sanding, bumper rails, spray rail, and skeg. :D
IMG_20190105_115825154.jpg

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