Otter's Ski Bass

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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mrintense
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by mrintense »

Good to hear from you again Chris. I also did the chine in one piece instead of two laminations and it was a bear. I would definitely do the lamination if I were to do another.

My shear to stem connection was ugly as sin as I only had 2 inches of clearance in front of the boat and it was very difficult to get in there. I used a cobbled together piece of plywood and some clamps. Dang thing broke when I started applying pressure!!.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

Otter
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

Thanks Carl. Glad to know I'm not the only breaking things while building. :D .i must have snapped off a half dozen drill bits when trying to make the pilot holes on the chine logs and sheers.
Chris Otterness
Building a Ski-Bass

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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

it's been quite a while again since I've posted. I HAVE been.making progress...just doing a poor job remembering to snap photos. I'll get some sent out. Sheers are installed and I've made a.lot of progress fairing. Fairing is a blast, by the way! I have used lots of tools...power planer, belt sander, Jack plane, block plane. They all seem to have their place. i havent determined yet whether I'll need to laminate an extra strip over the.forward end of th chines...i might need just a little bit glommed on to get them fair.

Starting to think about the plywood installation, and I have a question about the screws and countersinking. reading the boatbuilding with plywood book, it tells you not to countersink prior to driving screws, but instead drive the screw past flush so it dents in the edges.of the plywood surrounding the screw. However, I have concerns about leaving enough room to cover the screws when I'm done with a filler, as I'm planning to finish the sides bright with no stain. I have seen some boat blogs where they have countersunk for the screws.prior to installation. any thoughts/opinions you can share?
Also, is Famowood the way to go for covering the screws? Any precautions I need to take in using it, so it doesn't stain the surrounding wood?
Chris Otterness
Building a Ski-Bass

Otter
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

Finally got out to the shop with my phone. Here's some pictures of the frame coming along:
Attachments
20200117_164155.jpg
20200117_164202.jpg
20200117_164213.jpg
Chris Otterness
Building a Ski-Bass

hoodman
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by hoodman »

Looks great! Keep it up!
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
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Otter
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

I have made a lot of progress in the last few weeks. After a LOT of time laying on the floor planing the shear, I finally got everything faired to my satisfaction. Here's an example of the "final' product:
20200229_160629.jpg
It was a fun process...but I'm glad to be done and moving on to the next phase of the build.
Now to planking. My dad helped me last weekend with installing the first two pieces on the starboard side. The plan requires 3/8-inch on the sides, and I was nervous about how it was going to bend. Turns out, it wasn't bad at all. Here is what it looked like installed:
20200309_203049.jpg
I used a butt joint, with a backer block installed AFTER I installed the forward piece. I regret now doing it that way, as I was still in a very curvy part of the boat, and it was a bear installing the backer block. I ended up poking the screws through the plywood a couple of times, and the joint puckered just a little bit. Fortunately, everything turned out to be fair once it was all said and done (which is the most important thing). But, I'm not overly pleased how the joint turned out from an aesthetic view....it looks a little on the ugly side now, since when I sanded down the joint, There is a millimeter or so of the top veneer that got sanded through due to the pucker. Here's a photo:
20200314_092024.jpg
As this is my first plywood boat build, I have no idea what these joints are supposed to look like when they're done, and how much the epoxy is going to level out the color or make these joint more opaque. Question for you all....is this joint going to stick out like a sore thumb once I have fiberglassed the exterior? If so, should I consider using a stain to help level out the color? (I hadn't been planning to stain...but I may consider now if it will help these joints become less obvious).

BTW - for the port side, I have preglued the backer block on this joint, before installing the plywood on the frame....I'm hoping it is going to look a little better.
Thanks for any advice
Chris
Chris Otterness
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Ibrew2be
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Ibrew2be »

Chris:
I'm not sure that you need to stain. Here's a look at the side of my boat in the area of the butt block. The plywood is okoume, and it is finished with about 4 coats of epoxy followed by about 4 coats of varnish. If you enlarge the picture and zoom in on the area right above the wheel, you can see where the two pieces butt together. It is certainly visible, but I don't think the eye is excessively drawn to that point on the side of the boat.
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Butt Blok Zoom.JPG
Barry Shantz

Imp built and launched.

Build of Ken Bassett's Rascal currently on hiatus

Otter
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

thanks, Barry. That is very helpful, and gives me a fair amount of comfort in sticking with my original plan.
Great looking boat, by the way!
Chris
Chris Otterness
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by acflynn »

Otter, looking good so far! I've got question for you on your setup approach. I'm a few stages behind you on my Mist Miss, having completed my frames but not yet gotten the stringers and the setup completed. If you don't mind me asking, what is the height of your uprights in your photos (from floor to eventual underside of stringer)? It looks like that leaves your sheer maybe 6" off the floor (a little hard to tell in your photos). Does that height work well for you, all things considered? I'm sketching out my setup and hope to start assembling that next weekend. Thanks!

- Andrew
Slowly building a Mist Miss in the Arizona desert

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mrintense
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by mrintense »

I recommend increasing the height of the boat from the floor.

Considerations are high enough to scootch under and not too high that you cannot reach the keel of the hull. Takes a bit of figuring. For my Vera Cruise, I opted for height over ability to reach the keel because it was already hard even at the regular level and getting under the boat to clean up epoxy squeeze out was high on my priority list. Far easier to do it while still curing than to have to sand it out at a later date.
Carl

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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by Otter »

Andrew:
If I recall correctly, my motor stringers are about 20" off the floor (per the plan). This has resulted in the sheer being about 5" off the floor at the stern, and about 1" off the floor in the bow. It has been about perfect for me to reach the keel (particularly since I'm vertically challenged at only 5'-6" tall) but not so fun for fairing the sheer (lots of time laying on the concrete). I have intended for some time to lift the whole works up by about 3 inches...but I have not done so for fear of racking it. Now that I have the sides (almost) installed, I think I'm ready to do the Big Lift. I'll have to noodle a bit on how I'm going to squeegy the epoxy near the keel without getting all wet and sticky with epoxy.

Carl - thanks for the advice. I didn't think about the clean-up of the squeeze out....but I should have. I recall spending plenty of hours swearing at myself while cleaning out the inside of the canoe I built.
Chris
Chris Otterness
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acflynn
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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by acflynn »

Thanks, Otter. The plans on my Mist Miss call for 33", but I believe I have a bit more freeboard in this design.
Slowly building a Mist Miss in the Arizona desert

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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by footer »

You may very well see the butt joint. I did the most wrong thing you can do and I can see it like a star in the night, but no one has said, wow, what did you do there? When people look at your boat, they will only see the big picture and totally miss those details you spent hours perfecting.

I built my construction frame for my Malahini, per the plans. I wish I had raised it 6”. If it’s raised too much, it’s too hard to reach over to the center. Not enough (My sheer was about 4” off the floor) it was hard to get clamps on when installing my sheers and ply (especially towards the stern where the transom rounds under). I only had 18” of side clearance to work in and had to literally lay on the floor to see what I was doing.
Just my experience.

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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by acflynn »

Thanks, Tom - side clearance and clamping clearance are good points to consider as well. I believe my Mist Miss is 6" more in beam and 7" more in hull depth, so I'll have to be sure to have the wingspan to reach the keel.
Slowly building a Mist Miss in the Arizona desert

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Re: Otter's Ski Bass

Post by mrintense »

acflynn wrote:
Thu Mar 19, 2020 5:52 pm
Thanks, Tom - side clearance and clamping clearance are good points to consider as well. I believe my Mist Miss is 6" more in beam and 7" more in hull depth, so I'll have to be sure to have the wingspan to reach the keel.
Regardless. While the skin is off, you'll be able to work in there and after it's on, you can always clamber up onto the hull. That's what I had to do often enough.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

Clipper Boating

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