Lee's Monaco utility build

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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neel thompson
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by neel thompson »

Lee,,,, Raptor sells the Omer stapler and brad nailer. there is a guy there named Richard (talk to him). Their phone # is 512-846-4027. Please keep us posted...Neel

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you Neel. I talked to Richard at Raptor and the bottom line is, my 4mm Hydrotek plywood is too thick and hard for the stapler. Richard recommended the Omer brad nailer so I am going to return my stapler and get a nailer. This will work fine for the ply layers but I might have to use some form of small cardboard or plywood "washers" for the final lumber layer. That way the brads can be left proud and sanded off so they don't show. The only question now is what length of composite brad to use so I am getting some samples to try them out. I will post another update soon.

Lee

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

The transom ply is trimmed and a coating of CPES is on it. I will do the final trimming of the transom ply on the top side after the flip. A coating of encapsulation is also on the bottom except for near the transom. I need to let the CPES dry back there first before finishing the bottom encapsulation. I also started cutting the first bottom ply piece :) I should be ready for the Omer brad nailer once it arrives in a few days :)

Lee
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mrintense
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by mrintense »

Nice clean work Lee.

One suggestion about those limber channels at the transom. On mine those became blocked with epoxy squeeze out and it it was a real bear cleaning them out after the epoxy set up. I am not sure of the best way to keep these clean. I've heard several different approaches, most being some version of putting some type of tape or release agent in there. But the space is small and I think any of those approaches are risky as well in that the materials intended to keep the epoxy out, will instead be stuck in there with the epoxy.

One idea I had (after the fact and not tested) was that if I ended the epoxy short of the limber channels on both sides of the batten and then put in screws on both sides of the channel (throw the plywood). It should still be strong enough. Of course, in your case it would be staples. If you can avoid the squeeze out in there, it should still be possible afterwards to get in there and seal the gaps between the plywood and the battens.

Just some food for thought.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you Carl. In regard to the limbers clogging with epoxy...good catch, I hadn't considered that. I wonder if putting foam packing peanut (see the picture) in the limber would work. Has anyone tried something like this? Please let me know. Thank you.

Lee
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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

Lee

I've thought about Styrofoam. Then a few drops of gasoline and there gone.

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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mrintense
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by mrintense »

denbrlr wrote:
Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:22 am
Thank you Carl. In regard to the limbers clogging with epoxy...good catch, I hadn't considered that. I wonder if putting foam packing peanut (see the picture) in the limber would work. Has anyone tried something like this? Please let me know. Thank you.

Lee
Bill Edmundson wrote:
Sat Mar 28, 2020 11:50 am
Lee

I've thought about Styrofoam. Then a few drops of gasoline and there gone.

Bill

These seems like it might work, however, if epoxy gets in there, then dissolving the Styrofoam will still leave the epoxy. So it will probably still be necessary to try and limit the amount of squeeze out in this area.
Carl

Crafting a classically styled Vera Cruise

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Bill Edmundson
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Bill Edmundson »

I have coated some wig forms with resin with no problems. But, right now I can't remember epoxy or polyester. :?

Bill
Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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Ibrew2be
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Ibrew2be »

To keep the limbers from getting clogged, what if you were to do this:

First, increase the thickness of the battens between the transom and the adjacent frame, to maybe 2X the existing thickness. That should then give you some latitude to cut the limbers deeper than is currently the case. If the limbers are deeper, then perhaps there would be less epoxy clogging that happens due to squeeze out.

Barry
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hoodman
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by hoodman »

I cleaned the limbers out just after glueing on the bottom hull panels. I used a shop towel and something to push it through. That requires you to climb under the hull though.
Matt

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Rich Coey
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Rich Coey »

I also cleaned them before the epoxy set. Pieces of rag, Q-tips, what ever works. You should get under there to clean up and smooth out the drips and mess anyway.

Rich

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Thank you everyone for the replies. After thinking more about it, I think I will do it the "old fashioned" way - just crawl under and clean out the limbers.

The bottom is now prepped and ready for planking and the two first pieces are cut. It would be nice if I could use planking pieces this big everywhere :wink:

Lee
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Ozzieboat
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by Ozzieboat »

Lee
I laid two full sheets at 45 degrees starting at the transom which got me to frame 6. You end up with big triangular pieces left over, but most of these will get sliced up and used up front. I used one triangular piece from the rear sheet to fill the triangular gap left behind that sheet and the transom edge.
On the sides you will get two and a half strips per 8 feet sheet. I spliced these halves to make one strip and saved on wastage.

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parsj1957
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by parsj1957 »

denbrlr wrote:
Sun Mar 29, 2020 7:17 pm
Thank you everyone for the replies. After thinking more about it, I think I will do it the "old fashioned" way - just crawl under and clean out the limbers.

The bottom is now prepped and ready for planking and the two first pieces are cut. It would be nice if I could use planking pieces this big everywhere :wink:

Lee
You can also string a rope (of appropriate diameter) through the limber -- and move it 'back and forth' as the epoxy sets up -- once the oozing has 'settled' pull the rope completely out --

good luck! J.
J.

denbrlr
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Re: Lee's Monaco utility build

Post by denbrlr »

Rope is a good idea as well. I will figure something out when the time comes.

The first two strips for the bottom planking are cut. The are just under 10 inches wide and due to the angle (about 35 degrees), it planks 12 inches longitudinally towards the bow along the keel. I probably could have made these wider because it is still relatively flat at this part of the bottom but oh well. The next two will be the same width. I probably will need to start making subsequent strips narrower but I will have to see. I am using 4mm Hydrotek ply and it is nice and flexible so it should be nice to work with for planking.

Also, my Omer brad nailer come today :) but I haven't played with it yet.

Lee
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