Maritime Malahini

[JimK]

The sheers are slowly being attached. The boiling water on oak is working perfectly. The sheer curve formed when bending around frame 4 is EXCITING!!
It is starting to look like a boat.

[Hercdrvr]

Very nice,
Matt B

[billy c]

Looks like that took a nice fair curve. Well done!
Billy

[Biss]

Looking great! Nice work on the framing!

[footer]

I think you are going to be happy you made your construction frame higher. Mine was only a couple inches off the floor, which made it difficult to do things to the sheer area.Sheer and chine look great.

[DrBryanJ]

Jim, nice work. Raising the construction frame is almost a necessity in my opinion. I raised mine and still had difficulty getting under the hull.

[JimK]

I have started fairing.
First I added some wood to my chines and then used the ‘Rabl method’ - both suggested and spelled out on this forum and both worked perfectly. Thank you again fellow boat builders.
The tools of destruction so far are a hand rasp, a hand plane and a belt sander.
I guess the forum also suggested raising the building frame ... so again - thanks!

[rbrandenstein]

Be sure to check the plane from the chine to sheer at the bow. Many Malahini builders, including me, did not have enough twist in the chine resulting in the plane lining up inside the sheer. This prevents having a good chine surface to attach the plywood at the bow. You can check this with a straight edge placed between the chine and sheer. I had to cut some triangular strips of oak and glue to the chine before I could finish the fairing.

This is a picture of the problem.

[JimK]

Bob I have studied your boat build for 2 years, and still reference it once or twice a month.
I did have to laminate some extra oak to my chines.
Thank you for documenting your beautiful boat.

[footer]

Good fix, man. Looks good. I did the same thing only on the other edge from taking too much off. Had to build it back up.

[Gayle Brantuk]

Very nice, Jim! Thank you for keeping us posted...

[JimK]

FINALLY finished fairing and I think I’m ready to attach some plywood.

I have read on this form that some builders have used conventional wood screws while the epoxy sets and gone back later and replaced them with silicone bronze - is that common practice?

That 1/4 is under some stress at the transom - might soak it with hot water first ...

Finally faired

I need more clamps ...

[footer]

I used drywall screws in a couple of places where I needed to fit and refit, but not on the hull. I screwed everything down with SB and left them in place.
Boats looking good.

[nc721]

I cut 1”x1” squares of half inch plywood, predrilled them, wrapped them in packing tape then added deck screws with steel washers. The tape keeps them from getting stuck. I used these first and removed them the next day when putting on the plywood. They provided great clamping pressure and I was able to use them over and over again.

[Ga-Steve]

Looking good. I am liking your clamping blocks. They really help. You were talking about your tools of destruction several post back. Have you tried the Shinto saw rasp? Best $20 I have spent. I actually wore one out on the fine teeth side and had to get another one. Runs rings around a regular rasp. Steve