Outrage progress

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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JimmY
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by JimmY » Tue Oct 15, 2019 5:07 am

Bill Edmundson wrote:
Mon Oct 14, 2019 8:38 pm
One of the nice things about silica bronze is that a belt sander will take it right down.

Bill
But a hand plane will lose that battle! :(
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

hoodman
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by hoodman » Tue Oct 15, 2019 12:37 pm

A hand plane will go through them too. You'll just have to re-sharpen afterwards. :lol:
Matt

Building a Geronimo......!
viewtopic.php?f=2&t=25139

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Gayle Brantuk
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Gayle Brantuk » Wed Oct 16, 2019 1:45 pm

Your boat is Outrageous! Sorry, I couldn't resist. It's looking great so far and please don't take a match to it!

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Thu Oct 17, 2019 12:03 pm

Thanks Gayle. Since the hull is in place, it has kind of sparked the drive. Got the Quick Fair down today. That was fun. The fiberglass book says 70* is the ideal temp. My understanding colder will not hurt just takes longer to cure. Correct? Thanks for the feedback and helpful hints. Steve
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JimmY
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by JimmY » Fri Oct 18, 2019 7:58 am

It is two part filler, then warmer = faster cure, cooler = slower cure. You can always add a small space heater under the hull if it is cool at night. Even a few 100W light bulbs can help.
-Jim
Nothing says poor craftsmanship like wrinkles in your duct tape!

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Gayle Brantuk
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Gayle Brantuk » Fri Oct 18, 2019 8:21 am

Correct Steve. JimmY is right on...

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Fri Oct 25, 2019 7:53 am

I laid out and cut the mat yesterday. I thought I had better put down a coat of epoxy just to get a feel of the epoxy using a roller. Been using disposable brushes on everything thus far. Took 48 ozs(40 +8) to put a coat on. Working by myself, I am scared the epoxy will start going off before I can get a section down.
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TomB
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by TomB » Fri Oct 25, 2019 10:24 am

Steve,

It looks like you are doing a great job.

Glassing the entire bottom in one go seems like a lot. I did mine one side at a time and it was still a big deal.

Here are some suggestions you haven't asked for and may not need:
  • Use packing tape to define the edge you want to glass each day.
  • Gently lay the fabric on the hull so it overlaps the packing tape. Any pulls or stretches in the fabric will relax when the fabric is wetted causing distortions.
  • Tape the fabric here and there enough to hold it in place.
  • Measure resin for the entire mix using multiple cups. Then add hardener and mix one cup at a time so you don't cook off half way through.
  • Pour the epoxy onto the fabric and spread with the roller (using a roller pan and picking up the epoxy that way takes too long) using care to get an even coating (thick spots ALWAYS run or sag) and don't push the fabric around. Wet out the glass from keel to chine and work from one end to the other. I also used a squeegee with the corners rounded (catching the fabric with a corner distorts the fabric and might make a bubble under the glass). The fabric disappears when it is wet out properly.
  • While the epoxy is still green, use a razor knife to cut along the edge of the tape to remove the excess glass. Any little pulls caused by the knife can be stuck back down. There is a nice sewn edge on the fabric, cut it off as part of this step, the fiber ends swell and leave a rough edge if left to cure.
  • Remove the tape.
  • Next day, repeat on the other side.
  • Day after that, finish filling the weave.
Beer and admiration of your accomplishments, as needed all along the way.

Hope there is a nugget in there somewhere you can use.

Tom

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Fri Oct 25, 2019 11:34 am

Thanks Tom. I was not going to attempt doing the whole boat at one time. I was simply laying the fabric to cut. I am planning to lap all sections with about 6” at stem , chine, and transom. With only a couple hrs a day to work, it will be a slow go. Keep the suggestions coming. Thanks, Steve

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Fri Oct 25, 2019 12:59 pm

Also, that was 2 batches of epoxy. 24 oz’s (20 r + 4h) x 2.

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Fri Oct 25, 2019 6:13 pm

http://www.glen-l.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=25013

Does anyone know whatever happened to this man? Says he last posted years ago. He had a very nice and super clean build going.

footer
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by footer » Sat Oct 26, 2019 6:14 am

The secret to epoxies is measure and mix exact amounts as prescribed.
Personally, I never mix more than 20oz of slow cure and 12 oz of fast cure at a time.
Always poor right into a paint pan so it spreads out a little while your working it. If you leave it in the cup, it will start setting up ridiculously fast.
Looking good, man.

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Sat Oct 26, 2019 9:54 am

I got half of the hull done. Wish I had time to do the other. I have read the ideal time between coats is 24 hrs so no sanding is needed but have also read 36 to 72 hrs for a chemical bond. Tomorrow will be a no go so Monday will be the next go. So, if no amine blush, is that still considered “green” ? Do you guys mix in microspheres in your fill coat(s)? Thanks for all the tips and feedback. Steve

Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Sat Oct 26, 2019 9:56 am

Thus far
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Ga-Steve
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Re: Outrage progress

Post by Ga-Steve » Fri Nov 15, 2019 7:51 am

Having never done body work, I would love to be able to be sure my hull surface is right.when I used the fairing compound before putting down fiberglass mat, I feel like I sanded too much. I know most of you guys have the mahogany wood finish but mine will just be painted. Currently, the weather turned cold and I am at a standstill. I need a couple more layers of epoxy before going on to the lift strakes. I found this video and he makes it look so easy.
https://youtu.be/Se4SuTrznoI
Any suggestions are welcome. Steve
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