Oh well, at least she didn't roll over and sink...

Designs for inboard or outboard power

Moderator: BruceDow

User avatar
narduccimarine
Posts: 205
Joined: Sat Oct 14, 2006 5:50 pm
Location: Decatur Alabama
Contact:

Postby narduccimarine » Mon Sep 24, 2007 5:44 pm

Cut the shaft in two in a logical place and then use a 4-bolt clamp type coupler about 4" long to piece it back together, extending the shaft.
That is , if I understand you.
Go back to my post about the coupler, It seemed at the time that you had no positive connection to the impeller. All that talk about clearances didnt make any sense to me.
I had a ski with much more clearance than what you described and mine Would move, not fast, but.....when the motor is running and you dont move at all, the impeller is probably not turning

Bob
I just don't understand, I cut that plank twice and its still too short
http://www.narduccimarine.freehosting.net

User avatar
M_Holmes
Posts: 42
Joined: Tue Jan 03, 2006 9:45 pm
Location: WA

Postby M_Holmes » Mon Sep 24, 2007 6:05 pm

Stupid question... I'm sure you would have done this if it was this simple, but I have to ask...

What's keeping you from just drilling 4 new holes through the bracket, 1.5" further forward, and sliding the pump forward?

Brian Eager
Posts: 454
Joined: Wed Nov 12, 2003 3:20 pm
Location: Harlan, IN
Contact:

Postby Brian Eager » Tue Sep 25, 2007 3:52 pm

A word of encouragement: You built this boat up from a dream on a sheet of paper, and you can fix it! If it's re-mounting the pump, hole-saw out the embedded nuts, plug the holes, re-mount them.

Remember the famous words of Bela Karolyi to Kerri Strug at the Olympics: "You can do it!" After which she performs the team winning vault, landing one-footed, because the other foot is broken.
Last edited by Brian Eager on Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:17 am, edited 1 time in total.
Noah was a first-time boatbuilder

User avatar
leakcheck
Posts: 2950
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 3:01 pm
Location: Lander Wyoming

Postby leakcheck » Tue Sep 25, 2007 4:06 pm

"YOu can do it"...I thought that was Adam Sandler...(well I am from NH so I might be partial to that comment)

Steve

marksa1458
Posts: 166
Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2005 5:57 am
Location: Massachusetts
Contact:

Postby marksa1458 » Tue Sep 25, 2007 5:46 pm

How does a New England guy end up in Georgia? I didn't think it was possible for New England folks to leave the area.....
Both the below websites detail my build progress.

http://dynojet.fateback.com/Index.htm
or
http://www.geocities.com/marksa1458/

User avatar
leakcheck
Posts: 2950
Joined: Mon Nov 17, 2003 3:01 pm
Location: Lander Wyoming

Postby leakcheck » Tue Sep 25, 2007 6:58 pm

Wife: " I am heading south and taking the kids, would you like to come?"

Husband: "uhhhhhhhhh"


Here I am...

Steve

boat-bill-der
Posts: 332
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:26 pm
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Contact:

Postby boat-bill-der » Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:58 am

Terry,

Any of the solutions proposed sound like it will fix the problem?

User avatar
Caber-Feidh
Posts: 828
Joined: Mon May 07, 2007 7:50 pm
Location: Battle Point, Leech Lake... tundrasota

Postby Caber-Feidh » Wed Sep 26, 2007 1:20 pm

If I am understanding the problem right, I would move the mounts, I think the hole-saw idea is right on the mark.

Saw them out, use the same saw to make some new plugs out of solid material, Bond them in with a good layer of slightly thickened epoxy. (I would be afraid of low shear strength of the plywood laminations in such a small piece)

I would avoid any shaft mods. The bushings aren't very happy with alignment or vibration problems. Even a few thousandths of eccentricity are going to leave you discovering the joys of nature's quietude... as you paddle back to shore :(

Don't be too sick about it, it's a heck of a lot better than finding out the pump is eating impellers, shafts, or bushings! Wood is easy to fix... pump castings aren't.

Look at it this way, at least you aren't looking at a $1400. stainless impeller that is friction-welded to a 150.00 wear ring because I... er, I mean someone... forgot to put the shims back on the shaft.

User avatar
steve crawford
Posts: 392
Joined: Thu Aug 24, 2006 6:55 pm
Location: K.C. MO.

Bummer...........Bummer..............Bummer..............

Postby steve crawford » Wed Sep 26, 2007 4:53 pm

Terry go drink some beer and cheer up it's only wood . Not stone.
A good cabinet maker can fix screw ups and no one else can see
their was ever a mistake. But it sure takes a wile geting over felling stupid.

Been their done that........... Sounds like a new thread in miss. file ( most dumb mistakes we have done) O man have I done some stupid stuff, LIKE EXPERIENCE OVERIDE INTO NEVER NEVER LAND OF THE BRAIN DEAD.......DUMB STUFF.

Being stuck with cabinets that were 4'' to wide and having to make new ones ,finished and all. Oh I have a list. So don't feel bad their is enough of us out here to feel bad for you.........................

terrymc
Posts: 579
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:05 am
Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Postby terrymc » Wed Sep 26, 2007 8:11 pm

All,

Thanks for the encouragement and suggestions. Moving the engine is not an option, as the drive shaft location is set by the bearing that supports the shaft. Lengthing the shaft is a potential solution, but the Kawa specs require the shaft to be stright (i.e. max runout) of 0.1mm. This essentially means that the shaft would have to be cut, welded and machined to meet theses tolerences - also I'd have to pull the shaft (and that requires pulling the engine) to get it out.

That takes me back to theoriginal two options of cutting off the bracket, and rebuilding it, or trying to drill new mounitn holes in place. I like the latter option better, but the problem is that I installed 3" flat washers under the nuts - epoxied into the structure - when I did the bracket to minimize the stresses in the wood. This puts the edge of the the washers about half way where the new mounitn points need to be. I think the only way to do this would be to completely drill out the old mounting hardware and plug the holes, re Caber's suggestion. Right now, I'm leaning toward cutting off the bracket and starting over. I had SO wanted to take the little boat to the west coast "Guntersville" on 10/28, but I know that just isn't going to happen.

In the rush to get the boat in the water, I never posted a picture of the "complete" boat - I don't have the sheer mouldings in place, but otherwise it's "complete" except for the mechainical changes that need to be made. Here are a couple of pics that I shot just before hooking up to go to the lake - I don't have any "in the water" pics because everything went straight to hell...

Image

Image

Peace,

TRM

upspirate

Postby upspirate » Thu Sep 27, 2007 7:00 am

Terry,a lot of people are bringing "works in progress" to Guntersville. Why not tow it to the west coast meet & display it?

People will understand that it needs bugs ironed out & I for one would love to see the famous Terrymc work of art even if it's not finnished!

I really had hoped you'd make it to Guntersville,but understand the logistics of that distance.

If you are bringing the big boat,you can see how it tows behind!!!

Just my 2 cents (& probably others on here too)

Warren :D

J Patroni
Posts: 310
Joined: Tue Feb 27, 2007 7:20 pm
Location: Cape May, NJ & 1000 Islands, NY

Postby J Patroni » Thu Sep 27, 2007 5:29 pm

Terry,

Your work is impressive. The boat has lots of class. A real show piece.

These pictures really show your talents. As for your build techniques
it is understood that you wanted it to last a long time.

I had a welding/machine/fabrication shop for 25 years and generally
overbuilt everything so it would last for an eternity. The only thing that
I refused to do was to take my own work apart. Not enough patience for that at that time.

You have the winter in front of you. I am sure you will have everything
corrected for next season. Good luck!

Jim
If you don't build it now, You will regret it later! Already regreting it

Crackerbox Build
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee255/jtpatronimfg/

Checkmate Restoration
http://s232.photobucket.com/albums/ee25 ... 0Starflite

terrymc
Posts: 579
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:05 am
Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Postby terrymc » Wed Oct 03, 2007 3:42 pm

All,

Well, I decided to stop feeling sorry for myself, and fix this mother...

I started by making the decision to attempt a "repair in place" - if I screw that up, I can always go to a back-up of pulling the jet bracket off and starting over. For reference, here's what the underside of the bracket looks like:

Image

There are four 3/8" holes where the jet pump mounts, with stainless steel nuts (and large fender washers) imbedded in the 1" thick bracket top. You can also see the steering thru-hull which will also need to be modified.

I began by running a 1/4" drill up through the nut to locate the nut from the top of the bracket:

Image

Then using a 2-1/8" hold saw (yeah, it's from my lock set!) and using the quarter inch pilot hole as a locator, I drilled down about 3/8":

Image

Then I had at it with a chisel until the top of the captured nut was visible:

Image

In this pic, you can see the black MarineTex epoxy that I used to pot the nut in place. For future reference, this stuff is HARD! Then I screwed one of the mounting studs into the nut from the bottom, and wailed on it with a 5 lb sledghammer until the nut popped out. Then I used the hole saw again to go down about another quarter inch, and used the chisel again until the MarineTex was removed, and I could get the fender washer out. Finally, I used a 2-1/8" forstner bit to clean up the hole to flatten the bottom, and make the hole 3/4" deep. The I cut a 2-1/8" pulg from 3/4 ply:

Image

Finally, I gopped the whole thing up with thickened epoxy, and put the plug into the hole. After the epoxy had set, I drilled down through the plug center hole with a 3/8" drill, completely through to the bottom of the bracket top, and epoxied a 3/8" dowel in place:

Image

So far, so good, only 3 more to go! Once they are done, I'll sand everything flat on both sides, then I'll be ready to drill new holes and pot the capture nuts in place just like I did originally. The final act will be to re-do the mahogony veneer on the bracket.

Peace,

TRM

boat-bill-der
Posts: 332
Joined: Mon Oct 23, 2006 3:26 pm
Location: Pleasant Hill, CA
Contact:

Postby boat-bill-der » Wed Oct 03, 2007 3:53 pm

Man, that must have been hard to cut into something so pretty, but I am sure you'll recover from this gracefully!

Can't wait to follow along as you plow your way through the repairs!

Don't you wish they made epoxy that allows you to work with it as long as you want then when you snap your fingers it dries instantly? Waiting for epoxy to dry before moving on sucks...


~Bill

terrymc
Posts: 579
Joined: Wed Feb 23, 2005 11:05 am
Location: San Jose, CA, USA

Postby terrymc » Tue Oct 23, 2007 1:30 pm

Well, nothing is ever as easy as it could be...

After I got all the holes plugged, I got out by swiss watchmaker files ane dressed up the shaft to remove any rolled metal (there actually was quite a bit), and I still couldn't get the splines to engage. Turns out there were two additional problems. In addition to the pump being about 1-1/4" too far aft, it was about a quarter inch low, and since the pump "bulges out" toward its mid section, the transom cutout into the inlet had to be enlarged. Bottom line, the whole bracket needed to come off and a new one made.

Out came the saber saw, and I cut the old bracket off. In order not to mar the transom too much, I left the original front plate in place. Here's the back of the boat after the cutting, planing and sanding:

Image

Then I filled the holes where the thru-hull penetrations were for the steering and the cooling water. I suppose I might have been able to use the cooling water pen, but the steering had to move because of the change in pump location. Also, I used a file to widen the cutout to fit the new pump location. Here's the back of the boat ready for the new bracket:

Image

Finally, here are the parts for the new bracket - all machined and getting the first coat of epoxy. I was heartened by how fast the bracket parts come together - amazing how much easier something is the second time thru!

Image

I'm hoping to get a second coat of epoxy on the parts this afternoon, assemble the bracket and mount it on the boat on Wednesday, put on the veneer on Thursday, epoxy on Friday, paint on Saturday, , and bring the boat to the west coast gathering on Sunday.

Stay tuned...

TRM


Return to “Power Boats”

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 3 guests