Glen-L.com

I measured the required angle from the plans, +/- 12 degrees, made a template and drilled a 3/8 pilot hole. That way if I screwed up I could glue in a 3/8 wood dowel and start over. Then a friendly machine shop made a 3 ft. long bit comprising a 6 inch long.3/8 shaft then a 2-inch forstner bit and the rest a long 1/2 in. shaft.
This got me through the keel and first layer of deadwood. I then predrilled each succeeding layer of deadwood as I screwed them on for a total shaft length of about 5 ft.
For a liner I used 2 in. stainless steel pipe from a metal scrapyard.
As each layer of deadwood was added I sealed any gap round the pipe with fiberglass cloth saturated in epoxy.
I dreaded this job for weeks but in the end it was a breeze!
Graham

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I am presently constructing a Glen-L HERCULES, hull basically complete.Am going to fiberglass and paint bottom and then turn over. Sides to be planked with10mm yellow cedar edged bead and cove . Engine is Mitsubihi 4-cyl. 39 crankshaft hp.

Just a quick aside here...it would probably help if everyone listed the boat they were building at the time, as some have skegs and some not. On my Titan I'm using a commercialy available fiberglass tube ( Stright- Mackay) about $100. that allows me to insert a stern bearing of the proper size, and also to mount the proper size shaft seal inboard. On advice from somebody on the forum, I'm planning on installing the tube as I build up the large skeg with the laminations parallel to the shaft at that point...no drilling required.
Doug

Slug.

Many of us keep our boat model referenced in our signature line. I would encourage all to do that (just like putting your location in your profile)

But I guess you are right that it would be more courteous to remind the reader at the top of our post if it was relevant (as it is in this case)

BTW... is your screen name a reference to "Doug and the Slugs"? (a very fun Canadian band from the '80s)

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Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

I cut a hole with various tools to fit a 316L SS 2" pipe through the keel and bottom planking. I then cut blocks of wood that fit the pipe on one end and the bottom on the other end. I think it was a total of 19 pieces.
I epoxyed the pieces to the bottom and used the pipe as a guide.
I then removed the pipe and made up a big batch of silica thickened epoxy and bonded the pipe to the hull.
2 layers of bi dir. cloth went over the pipe down the pieces and onto the hull.

I had the inside of one end of the pipe machined to receive a standard 2" X 1 1/4" prop bearing with 2 set screws.
Dahmer Marine in NJ had bronze cast stuffing boxes for 2" pipe (Silverton Marine used them in the past) along with the hose and clamps.
This set up has worked very well and I have not had to adjust the stuffing box in 2 years. That is about 3000 mi. and 450 hrs.
Total mi. 6000, total hrs. 900. Epoxy is great stuff..

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Carl
If not now......When?
http://s270.photobucket.com/albums/jj94/gashog7/boat/
http://www.epoxyworks.com/26/index.html Number26

Bruce; Yep, I remember Doug and the Slugs, but the boat will be called "Slug" ( the tug )

Doug and the Slugs had some awesome music.

It's been a long time and I don't think it was my idea. For My Bo-Jest I mounted an alignment jig on the transom and inside the hull. Then I bored my initial hole with a hole saw on an extension bit before I mounted the first keel lamination. Then I proceeded with lamination /hole until the keel was complete. After the keel was shaped and finished, I inserted an epoxy wetted out 6oz. fiberglass piece on a 1" dowel. The material sort of hung on the hole wall. Then I inserted one of those long balloons on a smaller dowel, blew it up and let everything set. Finally, I painted the hole with an epoxy paint. Worked great for me. Read Smith

There must be a good answer I'm missing, but if you have a deadwood shaft log why wouldn't you just use a ship's auger and a brace ?
They're 18" long, can be extended, cut slowly enough to adjust as you go, and the smallest one I've seen is 1/4" (pilot hole).
A shaft-sized dowel in the strut bearing will give you the center and will let you keep the shaft bore straight by checking it as you go.

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-Brian

"Do or do not. There is no try."
- Yoda

this worked for me hope it helps.
Falcon

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Be who you are, say what you want those that mind don't matter an those that matter wont mind.
http://s91.photobucket.com/albums/k299/falcon6667/

Much thanks to you all!

Glen has been avidly reading all of your posts and emails - keep sending 'em in!

--John B

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Democracy is 2 wolves and a lamb voting as to what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the result of the vote.

Since this thread is being closely monitored, I'll put in a plug for Bruce's website

Here's Bruce Dow's setup :

http://www.chelseacoachworks.com/boats/ ... tml#boring

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Paul Kane Chelsea, PQ

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com

Thanks Paul!!! Great job, Bruce!!!

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Democracy is 2 wolves and a lamb voting as to what to have for lunch.
Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the result of the vote.

Check out the pics on my boat build...I have pics of drilling the hole with a tool I made, unfortunately I loaned it to another builder and when he sent it back UPS "lost it". It was easy to build: take a one inch shaft(I used stressproof shafting) and turn down one end to half inch so a drill motor chuck it up. Then I drilled a half inch hole an inch deep on the other end and put 2 set screws in the side of the shaft so a forstner bit could be gripped...I spun it with a half inch air drill and drilled thru the already mounted strut on the bottom of the boat....Again, look at the pics...Dwain The Ski King.......

Dwain, that is how I drilled mine, with the already mounted strut for alignment. I could add a couple things:
1. I practiced on a 2x6 to see just where the hole breaks out on the inside; and what to expect as far as engine placement.
2. Since new shafting is sold by-the-foot, you always are forced to buy a longer shaft anyway. Your local prop shop can turn the too-long shaft to accept the drill motor & boring bit, then later 'trim away' that much to make actual shaft length.

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God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

BTW, Ken I still have your gas can...I'll find out how much they cost and send you a check( It'll be a 3 party out of state check, but it's good!!!!!)HArharharhahrrr!!!! I needed another can anyway....I guess my shaft hole was good, it withstood a 8200 mile haul...I did get to put boat on Lake Elsinore(2 miles by 4 milesand you could only go counter-clockwise...Sorry about messin' up the thread, NOT!Dwain the ever present Skiiiiiiiiii Kiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnnnnnngggggggg....