Progress Has Been Made

Designs for inboard or outboard power

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jeffh
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by jeffh »

I have not winterized mine yet, but I plan to this week sometime. It is going into the 20s again tonight and our lake has been lowered by 8ft by TVA. The boat is nice and cozy in the garage. I put the wheel dollies on it last week and moved it out of the way so my wife can at least get her car in. Kicked In The Head is going into hibernation.
2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD
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I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning :)
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

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jamundsen
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by jamundsen »

Snow can best be enjoyed by someone else in a land far away. :lol:
John Amundsen
Monte Carlo
Lakeland,Fl

Work tends to get in the way of boat building

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Well, after another fun weekend at the lake it's time to winterize again...I did winterize the pontoon boat and seadoo's while I was down there but need to re-winterize the Malahini. I don't believe it's going to be warm enough to go out again until spring. Thursday was the best day...61 degrees with winds 0-15. I made several nice runs with some family members and they had a ball.

Lengthy post is about to happen! :shock:

Those of you at the gathering knew that I was concerned about the prop I was running as it appeared I was only running about 3500K WOT. I have to admit there is still some fine tuning to be done to the motor before everything is dialed in but I was able to calibrate the tach (relatively close anyway) to ease my concerns somewhat. So, I'm going to detail the process for you. I am not, by any stretch of the imagination, an expert but I do feel comfortable discussing this process now that I’ve done it and proven it works for me. Also, there are multiple ways to calibrate a tach (like a non-contact rpm meter) but this is the process I used.

First, if you don't know what you are doing then read, read, read...there are lots of sources of information out there; some are good and some are lousy. The more info you can get your hands on the more comfortable you will feel with trying stuff you haven't done before. Then, ask people you know and trust for their opinion on what you are planning to do. Once I had the theory and process in my head I talked to Oyster and asked his opinion. He said it sounded good to him but thought I should confer with Caber-Feidh. Caber was gracious enough to confirm my theory and said it should work out as I had planned.

The process is really pretty straight-forward but I’m going to lay out some of the science for you so you too can have a basic understanding of the how/why’s of calibrating your tach and why this process works. There are also some oddities out there between different motors so I’m just going to focus on my motor (1983 Evinrude 70hp).

The Stator – most of you know what this is and what it does. But a brief overview…it is the charging system for your electrical system. The entire system is made up of coils of wire and magnets (just like an alternator). The number of poles on your stator is important in this process and calculation. Mine has 12 poles. All stators will have an even number of poles and you’ll understand why a little later. Two wires from the stator go to a distribution block (one yellow and one yellow/grey) on my motor and I suspect it’s the same for most motors. These two wires are the charging/electrical pulse system for your motor. It is an alternating current (A/C) coming from these wires. It changes to D/C a little further down the line but knowing it is A/C at this point is helpful. A/C simply means it is a cycle pulse of energy (+ and -) similar to a magnet. If you think of it like a sine wave you have a plus signal wire and a negative signal wire to give you one complete cycle (not of the motor but a measurable cycle like a sound wave). With me so far? Measuring the number of cycles of energy at a given rate/time is the frequency (just like a radio station).

So, if the cycle of energy is measurable in real time across these two wires it’s pretty easy to take this frequency measurement and convert it to a really helpful measurement (RPM). It is a very simple formula.

I’m going to cover the second part of the formula first as it is the easiest to understand. If you have a twelve pole stator (like me) then you will have 12 pulses for every complete revolution. This further breaks down to 6+ pulses and 6- pulses per complete revolution. So you will end up with 6 complete cycles (waves) per revolution of the stator. If you have a 10 pole stator then you will have 5 cycles per revolution. Pretty easy ehh? It’s really that easy! One word of caution…nearly all stators now days are built on this A/C principle of +/- pulses but some old rare stators use only + pulses; these are few and far between so more than likely you have what I do.

For the first part of the formula you have to convert the frequency measured across the poles to a specific constant (in this case we are using 60 seconds for RPM). Frequency is measured in seconds (how many cycles per second). So the first part of the formula is the measured frequency you get with a multimeter set to frequency across both wires. Again in my case it’s the yellow and yellow/grey wires. For this example let’s say I’m getting a frequency measurement of 219Hz. Now I have to convert this to a constant of minutes. So I multiply the frequency (219Hz/sec) times 60 seconds…this converts it to minutes.

Now that I have these two parts of the formula I can use them to come up with a helpful measurement (RPM). Drum roll please…here’s the forumula:

Hz x 60 seconds / 6 (wave cycles per revolution) = RPM
Simplified the formula for me is Hz x 10 = RPM. So if I have a measurement of 219Hz then my motor is running at 2190 RPM.

I know this is a long explanation but I thought some of you might appreciate the more detailed information.

With all of this said, I was able to calibrate my tach and confirm I’m actually running closer to a respectable 5300 WOT.
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

upspirate

Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by upspirate »

Very good Bill,thanks!

And thanks to Caber and Oyster also :wink:

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

A little windy on Skiatook lake today but all in all the Major and I had a great day on the water. Trying to load pictures but they wont load from my tablet for some reason.
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Okay, pics from Friday on Skiatook Lake. Took my good friend Ret. Maj. John Harkins out for most of the day. It was a little windy (20-30 mph), we got wet from spray, but had a good day out. Storm clouds tried to move in but the sun quickly came on and burned the clouds off. All in all, we had a great day.
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Satuday-Monday the family and I made it to our lake house on Eufaula Lake...I avoided going out during any busy part of these days. It's just too rough on a lake this big with lots of wind and too many boats. Still I managed to get in several long early morning and early evening runs in the Malahini. The Eufaula Amphitheater is right across the cove from us. At night most people come in from the lake to listen to the concerts. This year we had Dierks Bentley w/ Eli Young Band, The Great Divide, & The Cadillac Black. I missed a lot of the concerts because since the other boats were coming in...I went out for evening runs. Overall, I logged about 16 hours on the motor Fri-Mon.
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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net


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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Thanks Chris!

Thought I'd share this as well...last year, on my way home from the gathering, the 1/2 gallon of 2-stroke oil I had under the rear seat punchtured and got oil everywhere in the bilge (including places I couldn't reach...which is a lot). Probably only a cup or so of oil leaked out but it still stuck to everthing it touched. I've tried several different things to get the oil out and most have been relatively ineffective. Last night before putting the boat back in the garage I tried some ZEP Degreaser from Lowes and it seemed to work better than anything else so far. I still had to scrub the areas i could reach but more came out with this stuff by far.
Clipboard03.jpg
Clipboard03.jpg (12.59 KiB) Viewed 3437 times
Industrial Purple Degreaser, 128 oz.

•Removes stubborn grease and oils
•For engines, heavy equipment, fiberglass and bilge pumps

I started with the keel of the boat level and emptied 1/2 of the gallon of solution into the front of the bilge (outboard of the battens) and the other half in the rear. Then I scrubbed the areas I could reach with a wash cloth (gloved up of course). Next I raised the bow to get everything flowing to the back. I turned on the garden hose and began flushing the bilge from the front. I left the drain plug out of the port side and when enough water was in the rear starboard side I turned on the bilge pump. I probably flushed 200 gallons through the bilge until the water was no longer foamy. Finally I let as much of the water as possible drain out then mopped up the remaining water with a hand towel tied to a broom handle. Time will tell how good I did and how well the stuff worked.
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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DaveLott
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by DaveLott »

Isn't boat ownership fun?

Glad you had a great time on the water though. We were dry docked the whole weekend. :(
Dave

Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project
Glen-L Sea Kayak
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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Softball and Baseball season is finally over for the kids (minus the father vs daughter game tonight) so now it's back to boating!

I've purchased parts for a lift system (about $100 total) to lift the boat off the trailer (hanging from the ceiling). The whole jack-stand/car jack dance I've used in the past has always been scary to me. The parts consist of 4 - 1200 lb forged eye bolts ($6 each at Atwoods), some all thread, coupling nuts, washers, and two 40' 10,000 lb winch straps. Going to lift the boat off (hopefully this weekend) and begin trailer repairs and painting. I picked up the primer and paint (on clearance from Atwoods as well) and it was so cheap that I really don't care if it falls off in a year (a quart of Naptha cost more than the gallon of paint and primer). My guess is it will probably be okay (metallic grey farm and implement paint). I have new LED lights and proper bunk brackets that have been collecting dust for over a year now as well as some other odds and ends. Probably going to change the hubs from 4 lug to 5 as 4 lug 13" wheels with the correct offset are hard to find. The existing wheels were pretty dinged up when I got the trailer and are not really trailer wheels anyway.

The existing paint on the trailer is stuck on pretty good...it just looks really bad. Probably not going to take it completely down to bare metal except where rust spots are evident. Any advice? I'll be applying the paint with a HVLP system.
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

red
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by red »

Bill if possible leave the paint on and just scuff it up really well with 320 and clean it real good if you do have to take it bown to bare metal in spots get some self etching primer from auto zone or advanced it in a spray can its actually some pretty good primer and then paint away. the paint your talking about is it the same implement paint they sell at tractor supply? if so youll probably need to thin it some before you spray it and also i would not wait until it was dry to recoat wait just long enough for it to flash off and hit it with the next coat .

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Thanks red...yes it is the same or similar stuff from tractor supply. It does need to be thinned with naptha. I've always read the best surface to paint on is good holding paint so I don't plan on taking everything down to bare metal. I'm with ya on the reapplication issue...don't really want to sand between coats. I'm thinking of just using scotch pads to scratch the existing paint
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Well, the boat lift system works like a charm. Getting the trailer out is super easy. Will post pics tomorrow.

I've stripped the parts off of the trailer, took it to a family members body shop and took a couple of bends out on his frame straightener, disassembled the sliding axle to replace some worn parts (bushings, shackles...), and have begun painting. I highly recommend an hvlp system! This is my first time using one and it is the only way to go imho. Bought a chepo hvlp gun from harbor freight and am extrememly pleased. Another family member loaned me his Binks hvlp 12psig air system, and I was skeptical it would work since it is tiny, but it delivered beyond my expectations. Purchased a gallon of metallic grey farm and implement paint from Atwoods (on clearance) and painted the fenders tonight. Only used about a 1/3 pint of paint and boy does it look pretty. At this rate, a gallon will do about 20 trailers.

Got to get this thing painted and reassembled soon...the gathering s just around the corner.
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Pics as promised.

This is the bottom side of the ceiling mounted attachement hardware. I made some "T" beams with 2x6's and 1x4's and placed them on top of the rafters in the attic (spanning three rafters). Next I drilled through the 2x6's and then through the ceiling drywall. I cut some allthread to appropriate lengths, fed it through the "T" beams, backed it with double washers/nuts, threaded on the coupler nut with some thread lock, then threaded on the forged eyes....of course I waited until it was 113 degrees outside before doing this work so I'm sure I lost at least 15 pounds in the attic/sauna.

Here are a couple of pictures of the attachment hardware and boat hanging from the ceiling.
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After getting the trailer straightened I powerwashed it and stripped all of the hardware off. I'm using a nylon power wheel in my drill and a wire brush to clean off all of the stubborn loose paint and rust spots. I finished up the fenders, spot primed where needed, and painted them yesterday evening.
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This is the Binks 12psig air delivery system the in-laws loaned me. This thing is awesome! It runs continuously and has a bleader valve that releases any air beyond 12psig.
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...and here is the results of said painting.
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Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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ttownshaw
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Re: Progress Has Been Made

Post by ttownshaw »

Started thinking about this...are shackle tie plates normally painted?
Bill

I told my wife we needed a three-car garage for my projects...she told me to ask her for permission next time before I buy a house.
http://www.unitybuild.net

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