Glen-L.com

if it is still early in the game for you, take a look at billy c's site.

the traditional runabouts were planked with five strakes on the sides.

I used narrow planks. I wish I had used the wide ones. You could probably get boards resawn to wide planks at your lumberyard for a modest charge.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

Good suggestion Bruce, yes in these builds you will encounter the need for wide planks. Unless shops have a good resaw blade and the proper setup which creates minimum waste, you do spend out of the wazoo for your return. Even with the table saw method in wider than avaliable double saw technigue to produce a cleanly cut plank, the two slots gives an individual in a home setting something that they themselves can use with a decent bandsaw to quickly but carefully wack out the uncut area in the center that they can go back and either plane down smoothe or drum sand the wide planks to use.

So if I take the widest part of the build and divide by 5, that is the desirable plank width??? I'd like to emulate original as close as I can (without getting carried away).

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

This is an example for decking planks and maximizing woods with narrower and less costly because of even shorter lengths and in many cases less expensive boards. Depending on the thickenesses of your boards, this will also give you book matched boards that is a favorite feature in doing woodwork for boats, folding the split boards and opening them up to show the same grains. If you use a five inch board and the scarves, you can create what amounts to a nine inch curve too without the wastes, costs and in some cases fault grains that can split in weather.

You may also find that a straight cut board will not show straight when applied to the sides with the changing shapes foward. But lets take one step at a time, planking the laminates and then we can go back and look at this with templetes.

take a look at Billy's site. But unfortunately, I am getting an error trying to load it right now. Maybe a server is down.

His pictures are very helpful in understanding the "geometry" at play.

Some of your planks may need to be wider than one-fifth of the side height, because the planks on these cold-moulded boats follow a "sweeping" pattern. Running straight planks can lead to an upward curve in the planking. If you want them to appear level and straight, you may have to cut them as arcs.

You will see that Billy laid out the lines for "visually appealing" five strake pattern. It looks like more work, but I bet that in the end, it is less work that going with the thinner strakes. Because of the flare, each strake needs to be hand fitted anyway. Better to do it five times than ten or twelve.

Also... you may find that the majority of your planks can be six or seven inches, but the ones you use forward may be eight or ten. Again... with a little planning, you can minimize your waste.

_________________
Bruce.

~~ Do what you love, and love what you do. ~~
~~ To me - only my boat is not yet perfect. Everybody else's is to be admired for I know the path they have walked (Dave Lott, 2010) ~~
Dow's Monaco Project

keep in mind also that you only have to be pretty to the top of the boot stripe rather than the height of the topsides.
also what you can do to get more milage from your strake run is take the "wasted" material from the ends of the board and reattach it on the side of the board where you need more material. works well where you have a cold mold build than a traditional planking method.
-Billy

_________________
(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

yes server is down knocked out by the winds yesterday... supposed to be back later today

_________________
(insert witty phrase here)
Billy's Belle Isle website

What I have personally done for shaping the longitual planking is to use a long batten centerline simulated planking stock tacked in place and mark the line onto the luan and cut the shape. Making patterns in the planning stage of dry fitting goes a long ways in saving materials and the frustration sometimes if you cannot visualize what goes on in the side planks.

Didn't achieve much this weekend, studying and some gardening (muscles are sore from wielding the chainsaw) bit into play time. Managed to glue up the last frame and put a coat of epoxy over them all. Just the transom to tackle now. Also marked the engine stringers for the frames, and got another $2500 worth of mahogany to make into planks. They had very little stock left and were having difficulty getting mahogany in 2", which is more efficient to cut into thin strips.

Any opinons on "Kwila" timber for the motor stringer clips? Plan suggests Douglas Fir or Mahogany, don't much like DF, it seems to split easily, and Mahogany seems a waste. Kwila is easily available here.

Cheers.
Glenn.

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Use 1-1/2" X 1-1/2" aluminum angle, or 2"X2"- by 1/8" thick, I happened to have stainless angle the same size and used it, on the Ski King....Doesn't rust, doesn't split, and is reasonably priced.....Dwain the Skiii Kiiiing.........

Thanks Dwain, I just hate the thought of metal in amongst my precious Mahogany . Have decided to use Mahogany to be safe and in keeping with the theme.

Exams over .

Got some good work done on the weekend. Cut the notches for the keel in the frames. Stuffed up one, forgetting that the keel tapers from frame (3?) forward . Have to add some back in to bring the slot width back where it should be. After the limbers are cut it won't show much, but there goes any thought of leaving the inside finish as Varnish.

Got the frames threaded over the motor stringers, and got the motor stringers levelled and attached to the building form. Glued up the split that had appeared in the bottom of one stringer. Also got the first stringer-attached frame glued and screwed onto the front of the stringers. That is the first bit that is not reversible, no turning back now. Got the next frame fitted (had to check out the stringers for that one), and made 6 of 8 required clips.

I am trying to decide how best to line it all up. Don't trust my pencil center lines and it looks to be pretty easy to be 5mm out at the frame extremeties. Thought I might run a stringline right down the middle as low as I can get and use a plumbob to ensure it as all centered. Also thought maybe a straightedge across the frames with a level on top (why didn;t I buy a longer level????) to set them level at the bottom (top). I guess I could also mark a centreline on them and plumb to that. (Edit) It just occurred to me that if the floor timbers are sitting on the engine stringers as they should be, then all that is required is centering... Duh (/Edit)

Also trying to figure a way of setting up the Transom to glue it. Angle on the bottom and curve on the rear, nothing square or straight in sight...

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Track,
Aren't you forgetting something? ----------------Pictures.

_________________
A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

Sorry Fella's (and Fellesses).
Well, my dog ate the camera? Ummm, actually the camera ate its batteries. I promise some piccies over the next day or two. Maybe I'll see how they come out under lights tonight.

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

So the guilt forced me to borrow my Mum's camera and brave the 10 deg. cold and dark to get you some photies. Not good under the mercury vapour lights sorry.
Frame (4?) checked into the stringer. Careful observation will notice the split that opened up in the stringer. I forced in glue and clamped it down (with a boat bettery sitting on top), seems to be ok.

Engine stringer clip (Mahogany), edges routed to be nice roundies.

First frame actually glued to stringers (no turning back now), screwed through the end and carefully adjusted square and plumb. Clips to be fitted.

_________________
By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....