Spent Saturday fine tuning the bottom lines and marking the waterline. Taped along the waterline and applied 6oz epoxy to the bottom today. Ended up running out of time tonight at 3 coats, so trimmed the line with a sharp knife and cleaned up. Not 100% happy with some lumps and bumps a couple defects in the glass and edges that I couldn't trim fully which had ragged threads running wild. They should sand out ok though I hope. The bottom will be painted so no great worry. Next weekend I will sand back the lumps and put on another coat or two.
Photos below after the first coat
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File comment: Gentry bow view first glass epoxy coat
Bow glassed.jpg [ 1.45 MiB | Viewed 480 times ]
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File comment: Gentry bottom glass first eposy coat
Bottom Glassed.JPG [ 3.66 MiB | Viewed 480 times ]
What have I learned????
I used the dry fit method, fitting the cloth dry and squeegeeing the resin through the cloth. I tried the wet method on a small area and it is VERY difficult to move the cloth once it is wetted out. It makes getting rid of wrinkles very difficult.
When you pick up your cloth, treat it nicely. Keep it rolled and avoid squshing or stretching it.
Smooth the cloth as much as you can initially and tape it in place, but don't overdo it.
Mix only enough epoxy for what you immediately need. I found that 300 grams (250g resin and 50g slow hardener in the case of West Systems) was a good amount to mix for spreading on the initial wetting out, then 200g for subsequent batches. For 3 coats I used about 2L of epoxy.
Pour some of your resin onto the surface, spreading it out from the centre working out to the edges then moving for and aft.
Keep remaining resin in a wide based container, and keep stirring it or the heat builds up and it sets. (Don't put the heated resin in the bin with dry shavings... it catches on fire
)
Don't stretch the cloth too hard, keep a gentle pressure in the direction you need and use the squeegee to spread the resing and smooth out the lumps.
Be careful on the corners, it is easy to over stretch the cloth and spread the fibres.
Tape along the edge and cut along the tape edge while the epoxy is still green to leave a nice defined line.
For layers 1 and 2, the squeegee is fantastic. Next time, layer 3 will be applied with a roller or brush as it gets more difficult to keep it flat and even.
Hope that helps somebody else.
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then apply primter to the bottom, sand again 
) but not enough to come off. So I eventually cut down the lenght while still green and it cam off easily enough. I applied epoxy to the cut to seal it up and then slapped thickened epoxy over its outside an slid it into said hole. I have previously put unthickened eopxy inside the hole usinf a bottle bursh to ensure it was good and sealed. Depending upon how well it looks when all trimmed off (no voids), I may even vee out where it joins the timber and re-seal just to be sure it is a good waterproof seal as I don't want any seepage into the timber there.