Glen-L.com

That my dear Psycho is way too much HP for my 18 ft. Woody.... 325HP SMB Chev MEFI brand new. Almost time to try to fit it.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

It sounds PERFECT!

It looks great. You had to be just a little nervous using that Bobcat. One little slip and that bucket would have given that pretty hull some nice scars. The only problem I have with the whole thing is that girly beer you had sitting on the bow. You Aussies are supposed to be tough guys and I see a Corona on the bow

I suggest you go out and find this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7TRp_luA ... plpp_video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8CYeLlL ... re=related
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=95wZ6ufy ... re=related

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2011 MALAHINI - KICKED IN THE HEAD

I wake up with a 16ft woody every morning
Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=534DBtp1Cnc
Website: https://sites.google.com/site/2011malahini/

When your Mum buys beer, you drink it...

Tracey was wandering around outside wouldn't even com near. She said she was trying to figure out how to sell 1000 mahogany matchsticks on Ebay.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Hey Track Happy,

have you decided what prop you going for?

Time

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Eat less move more.

I picked up a 12 x 15 cupped Lundberg prop used in perfect condition. Hopefully it will do, although 12 x 14 cupped seems to be the recommended one.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

I need to make and fit my finishing timbers. They are 18 feet long 1" net x 5/8" thick, and need to bend and twist severely to follow the chine. 9-12 of them glued side by side comprise the side decking of Gentry. I cannot get that length in Mahogany so I am forced to join them and then steam into shape. It calls for butt joins spaced out. After the initial (outer) one is in place it will become easier I figure but the first one is the outer show piece and will have no other support until the epoxy sets.
Question.

If I butt join first while rough cut, then finish thickness and steam in place will the epoxy join hold?
Any other ways to do this?

Thanks,
Glenn.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

hi track- I'm quite sure your epoxied but joint will fail as soon as you try to do any bending in place, even with steam. I had good luck with wetfitting the strips, letting them dry, and THEN gluing them. the pre-bend helped a lot. I let each strip soak for a minimum of six hours in two sections of 2" PVC pipe coupled together and capped on one end. I propped up one end about three feet off the ground with frequent supports, so the pipe didn't sag (didn't get a pic of that system). you can check how they went together on page 4 of the Minnesota Gentry. at the very least on your first strip I would do a seven or eight to one scarf joint. you are going to find that even though the strips are only 1" x 5/8", they still are pretty resistant to bending, especially dry. I think you'll not want a butt joint anywhere forward of frame four, where the bend gets more severe. it's pretty slow going, getting all the strips glued into place.

Thanks Trisailor. I was hoping to avoid a scarf in the outer one as it is obvious to the eye. I had planned the joins at the straightest part separated by say 8".

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

the scarf would look like a butt joint, diagonal going from top to bottom. butt joint location toward the rear is good, but be sure to mix it up a bit. back and forth every 8" would be pretty noticeable. more random, less so......imho

I recently found a drop-in sliding seat unit on Craigslist and am trying to figure out how to mount it in my soon-to-be-finished Ruth wherry. The trouble I am having is that the foot pads extend too low for me to mount the unit directly on top of the frames. Here is a picture of the situation (the footpads are removed, but you can see the brackets.

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builder sunshine coast

Just a quick update on progress...

Nothing to photograph (except for a couple broken bits of timber). The plans call for a piece of 5/8" bent to follow the transom arc to hide the finishing timber end grain. From what I can see everybody else did it a different way, but not good old Glenn,.... no no no, He has to do it like the plan shows without joins or laminations and bend a piece of timber in 3 directions to match the transom curve. This needs to be done before fitting the finishing timbers to ensure a nice join. So far tried soaking and steaming for 1 hour then clamping in place. Mostly worked but the last 4" at each end has to bend horizontally the that was too much partly because it got cold by the time I got it all clamped in place. I tried doing it in two laminations but it still failed.
I have now been told to heat and steam the timber and hand bend in the horizontal direction first, then the vertical but do it by hand so it is bent before being applied to the boat. Essentially hand work each end while heating until it is the shape it needs to be. Need to somehow mark where each part of the curve starts and stops and with no join in the middle there is no room for error. Sounds like some very delicate craftsmanship here, but apparently it can be done as they used to make chairs like this. Got me a gas stove and a big pot of boiling water to try.

Engine beds are still causing an issue. Decided I don't like the ply option. Looking at Kwila 72 x 190 dressed at present but it sure is expensive in that size. Still, Ally is looking like twice the price and I just don't like the idea of steel in there.

Al drilled the bronze shaft log for the screws in the weekend and we have thicknessed most of the lengths for the finishing timbers. Bit of a slow progress phase but still going forward.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Hi Steve,

Not sure if you meant to post this here, regardless we can't see the picture. Did you find a solution?

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Its looking very nice! Im not sure how big your boat is but my dads 20'6 Tahoe we basically flipped with a engine hoist and let it roll down. There are some pics I posted on my blog.

Keep up the good work and I look forward to seeing your progress.

Jason

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I cut it twice and its still too short
http://www.sportingawoody517.blogspot.com/

Am still battling with bending a piece of timber over the transom, but being somewhat stubborn (or so the Admiral tells me), I won't let it beat me. Each end is a complex 3 dimensional bend to go with the overall transom curve. I am doing one end at present just a little in each directionn and letting it sit. Basically sticking the end in a big pot of boiling water and whipping it out onto a bending jig on the bench and clamping until it cools.


In the meantime, been making the engine beds and trial fitting the engine.



The timber is Kwila and seems to be quite good if a little heavy. It has been seasoned for 3 years after kiln drying so should be pretty stable. I can see though some checking in the last two weeks after being machined, probably due to the rapid and massive humidity drop in the recent days. I need to get it finished and encapsulated as soon as possible to stop it drying out further.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....