Glen-L.com

Glenn - I wanted to post a pic of a gentlemen's racer at the local woodie gathering yesterday. It was commissioined by a gent in Florida in 1998. He died 18 months later. His widow put it up for sale for $86,000 and it sat there for a year. The guy driving it bought it for $20,000. GO FIGURE>


It is rigged with a 6 cyclinder and after installing some transom wedges it is a fast, sweet boat.

Thought you enjoy

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Dave, what are the transom wedges for?

He was porpoising and this resolved the issue.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Thanks for the comments and the picture, she sure looks nice... $20,000 that's sad for the previous owner.

I am sticking fairly and squrely with what is on the plan (including the popular 350 Chevy engine) since I have no experience and wanted everything to be right. I suspect I will have to hack about a bit to get the thing to fit though after reading around, it dissapoints me a little that there are not "addendums" from the designers with these small details clarified for beginners so we don't end up hacking our work around. I made sure those clips were glued and screwed good an proper, removing them will be a nasty surprise.
I already had consternation as I was doing them when I thought I had one of the frames over the building form backwards. After carefully looking at the plans again, the floor timber is drawn aft of the frame timber on one page, then for'ard on the other page, so I guess I can't be wrong.

Anyhow, Things are moving along whch is good.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Which side did you pick? If you choose the wrong side your boat will surely sink...lmao....

Maybe it will affect the center of gravity...

I guess though, my point is for a beginner like me it would be easier if the plans showed the bits in the right places assuming you have chosen "X" motor and gearbox, in this case the "standard" (and possibly worst case space-wise) seems to be the small block 350 Chevy with Velvet Drive gearbox. If you veer away from that, then expect changes.

Anyhow, I have been thinking I might move the ones nearest the engine area to the outside now while it is easily accessible. It will make a mess getting them off, but better now than trying to do it down in the bilge after lowering the engine in there.

Hopefully prospective Gentry builders will find this thread in the future and take heed. There don't seem to be many built, so I guess it isn't commercially viable for Glen-L to go back and modify the plans.

I will re-photograph when they are moved.

Thanks for all the comments.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Nova- which side is the right side for Track, remember he is on the OTHER SIDE.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Track,
It won't be that much of a mess to remove them and let me tell you that you will not be the first or the last to remove something already glued up. One way I have seen it done is using a saws all to cut the glue line. I have personally seen someone use a heat gun (a souped up hair dryer) to remove a chine from a frame.

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A secret to a good marriage is to have a quick mind and a slow mouth!!!

OK, bit the bullet and removed the offending items. From the indicative engine position on the plans, there was only 1 pair of clips that are near the engine, so removed those (Gotta commend those glue manufacturers..... ) and made new ones. Cleaned it up as best I could, squared and plumbed, re-glued and re-bolted. Still have to plug up a couple holes and re-poxy it all.
Also made the last pair of clips for the rear most frame (1) and started to get the stem and transom lined up.

Too late to take piccies I am afraid.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

You could have used a heat gun (basically a blow dryer on steroids) to soften the epoxy and separate the parts. As far as their not being a lot of Gentry builders that is because it is one of Glen's newer designs so I suspect its just a matter of time before there are more builders. (I think less then 5 years, iirc)

BTW Track, I wasn't trying to make light of your dilemma. I'm sorry if I came across that way. I have three sets of plans here and have been through two of them with a fine tooth comb(strangely enough there still isn't a finished boat to be seen anywhere...lol) and there are some discrepancies in them. Nothing that would make or break a build but something that would make you think about it for a while.

I wasn't upset by your comments, they were funny. This stuff is all for fun, so I don't get upset by anything, just annoyed with myself and more "stuck in". Afraid I am one of those who have come from a metalworking background, with Navy training to boot. Steel doesn't move, tolerances are miniscule, and generally plans have to be right cause metal aint forgiving. This is all a learning excercise and fun along the way. Amazing reading around the boards all the Guys that must be grinning and winking seeing it all again with another Newbie. Would you believe I am already looking at 46 ft. cruiser plans, and tug boat plans, and......

I hadn't thought of the heat gun, but there was so much glue it would have taken a lot of heat to get it all soft, part of the problem was getting the bolts out as there was glue in the hole as well. The bashing and chiselling was therapeutic. I'll have to have a go with the heat gun and a spare bit of timber to be ready for the next "challenge". I am happy somebody mentioned it now though and I was able to remove it now instead of down in the bilge later. Bit of cussing, but all good.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Soooo, while I am at this stage, are there any other mods/changes/suggestions that you experienced Blokes can make to stop me from having change things around later on???

I am going with a 350 Chev just cause it has to be a V8 and they are easy to get hold of over here. Been watching Velvet Drives on Ebay, tempted at a few but haven't jumped yet. I want either new/rebuilt or at least dismantled and carefully checked over so I don't have any worries later. If I have to buy a transmission, is there any value in getting one with a down angle built in? That would level out the engine and probably give more space above it, but any other benefit?

And... I like the idea of fresh water with a heat exchanger as she will mainly be in salt water environments albeit she won't live in the water. Any comments, hints, recommendations???

So given the standard 350/Velvet Drive combo, can I be sure about the center of gravity at this stage? I assume when you bore "the hole" you have to have decided that? Is there any value in boring "the hole" prior to sheeting the bottom?

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Track - I believe Hot Rod bored his hole first and then built up the hull over it. I would look at this website and see what he did.

There is also a whole thread on boring holes. It is the first thread under Power Boats.

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Built-in down angle will level out the engine but may lengthen your engine/trans combination. If the engine is installed at it's designed location, make sure that you have adequate clearance for the longer transmission. If you're trying to get adequate hatch clearance, the strut drop and shaft angle may change but strut location shouldn't.

Here's a shortlist of Velvet Drive models. Note that the Liberty A 8 degree down angle is available in the 1:1 ratio ...

71C in-line :

Ratios : 1.0, 1.52, 1.88, 2.10, 2.57, 2.91:1
Weight : 95 lbs.


Liberty A Model 3001 8 degree down angle :

Ratios 1.00, 1.25, 1.50, 2.00, 2.50:1, 2.80:1
Weight 114 lbs.


5000A Series 8 degree down angle :

Ratios : 1.05, 1.30, 1.6, 2.0, 2.45, 2.80:1
Weight : 109 lbs.

More Velvet Drive specifications are available at : http://www.velvetdrive.com/productsm.html

Edit : The following link may help visualize the various combinations. 10°, 12° and 15° propshaft angles are shown :

MerCruiser Inboards Installation Drawings (mercurymarine.com)

I'm sure others will chime in with PCM and ZF trans/prop info !

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Paul Kane Chelsea, PQ

Building the Glen-L Hot Rod : http://www.boats.chelseacoachworks.com

The lowest ratio on the 8* ZF-45a is 1.25:1

Bill

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Mini -Tug, KH Tahoe 19 & Bartender 24 - There can be no miracle recoveries without first screwing up.
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