Glen-L.com

Thanks Guys, I am trying to avoid changes/complications, particularly CoG issues and height issues. If the down angle boxes change that then I will avoid them. I am assuming I won't have hatch clearance issues as the design allows for the small block Chev engine.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Transom is finished and glued/bolted in place. Bit of a bitch to get lined up,square, plumb but for beter or worse it is there.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

First keel lam is in place, glued and screwed to frames 1,2,3. Straight edge laid along to make sure it is a straight line. Had to pack one frame notch a couple mm the get it to sit right. Plenty of glue to make it stick good. Reasonably happy with this weekends work. My helper snapped me mixing glue, ugly as it is I have posted it for your scary move nights.




I guess next is to bend the first lam down and glue it to the stem, glue on the next keel lam and put the two stem/keel bolts in place, and put the chine in place to stiffen it all up. Oh, and you can see where I forgot about the tapered keel and cut a full width slot in the frame . I will obviously make some small filler to glue in there and clean them up nicely. I will cut the limbers when the second lam is in place.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Had a couple hours spare yesterday, managed to get front part of the keel lam bent down and glued to the stem, put in a couple screws for good measure (along with temporary clamps). Also put another coat of Everdure (epoxy) over the whole lot. Tomorrow's job is to stick on the second keel lam and put the carriage bolts through. That shouldn't take long, and I can get on with producing some longtitudinals from my stock.

They talk about ensuring you have straight lines along the last third of the hull for a well behaved planing boat, but the only straight line I can see is along the keel, there being different angles at each frame, maybe they just mean no dips or bumps. Hopefully it will all make sense once I start laying in the longtitudinals.

The bottom is optionally ply sheeted at the aft end, but I didn't really want to use ply at all, making it instead completely of mahogany, however I may be a little short on planking so have to think carefully. It is 5 layers of 1/8" making 5/8" total thickness. Maybe I could use a single layer of mahgany on the inside, then a layer of 3/8" ply, then an outer layer of mahogany again. The other gotcha is that it calls for a full 8 x 4 sheet, but over here we are Metric and the sheets are 2400mm long, not quite an 8 foot length. Have to work that out before I find out it needs the whole 8 feet and I get caught short.

I think I will drill the shaft hole before I plank, and am thinking of making a dummy engine outline from scrap timber to see how it all fits and get it lined up. Critical areas I am thinking are sump depth and width, engine height, shaft centre and length (including Velvet Drive, thanks for the comments and details already posted). I was thinking maybe of drilling a pilot hole and lining up through it onto the mark where the shaft will be, then opening it out with a bigger bit. I have been recommended a 12 x 14 LH three blade prop for the Chevy small block, so at least I have a starting place. I am hesitant to buy hardware such as the skeg until I have it mocked up as you don't seem to be able to return things easily if they are wrong.

As for the rudder, the Glen-L inboard book makes mention of offsetting the rudder shaft to one side to help with torque effect, but they don't say how much. Anyone got any ideas or experience? Read some on rudder choices, at least one poster mentions the rudder suggested on their plan (not Gentry) is not ideal, so I am thining a balanced rudder of approximately the right dimensions rather than the high speed unbalanced type. Any Gentry builders got experienced comments?

I will take some more photo's when there is something different to see, and I promise no more nasty photo's of me. That one is a shocker!!!

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Glenn - Making good progress?

Be sure to remove those screws out of your keel. You will be surprised how those things come back to bite you later. It would be best to remove them before the epoxy sets. If you wait they may be hard to get out. In that case put a hot soldering iron on them. The heat will soften the epoxy hold on them.

Regarding the full sheet of ply on the aft section of the bottom. Since this section is relatively flat, it it is a lot easier to go ahead with a solid sheet of ply. It also gives you a very solid clean surface for the bottom area that mates the water all the time.

Keep posting.

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
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Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

I had planned on leaving them there... is that a problem? I used Bronze ones and they are on the bottom (upper) lam only... Please say I don't have to remove them

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Very nice work. Leaving the bronze fasteners in is not an issue.

They are not a problem if they are not in the way of the plane when fairing the keel down

dave

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Got the 2nd keel lam glued on. Made the dhine log timbers and roughly laid them on the frames. Now to decide what should be the right (fair) lines. Wrapping around initially leaves some sever gaps, but that is without forcing anything. I guess we are really getting the the pointy end now.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

I thhink the main reason for offsetting the rudder post position is to enable removal of the prop shaft without dropping the ruddder. The offset should depend upon the shaft diameter and the thickness of the rudder blade at the point where the line of the shaft intersects the blade. At minimum for a very thin rudder it would be half a shaft diameter. Realistic offset would be half a shaft diameter plus half a rudder blade thickness plus a smidgen. I should think one shaft diameter offset would do it. The Glen-L book also discusses the torque effects. The offset should be in tne direction opposite engine rotation so for a right hand prop the helm should be on the right and the rudder offset to the left. At least this is my reading.

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Bill

Built a Monaco named: Princess

Thanks WB. I was thinking only of the torque, I am pleased you reminded me of the shaft issue. I guess I have to wait again untilI have the rudder in my hot little hands to measure it.

Question though, myengine is going to be a small block Chev. I assume like most car eengines they run clockwise looking at the front. That means antinclockwise propeller at the stern. That is then a left hand propeller right?

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

there is a brief discussion on offset rudder in webletter 95.

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God Bless our Troops; especially our Snipers

Chine temporarily pulled into place.




Don't know whose post used a spanner to twist the chines, but thanks. Spent a lot of time getting the chine to sit in the marked notches. The key as I understand it for this design is a straight line from the transom forard to frame 4. This applies to the chine log itself and the frames along the way. I am laying a straight edge along at a set distance from the keel on each side and cutting notches at the right depth. Note that I am only talking 1-2 mm here, although one frame (3 or 4?) needs 4mm added at the extreme outboard end if my initial observation is correct. I figure if I get these right and the chine log on those lines then things should be somewhere close for fairing and planking.
The chine has a nasty twist at the front end that is difficult but not impossible. The spanners twist them nicely and clamps/strops pull them in. I also put a couple nails in Frame 2 to hold them at the right level. From the transom if you come out at 20 deg as specified in the plans you have to pull in at the next frame to get it right. I was worried it was too far, but a straight edge showed it is still an ouward curve so all is cool. At the next frame, it is hard in, then the next one needs to be pulled in about an inch.
Right up for'ard I measured from the keel to get the notches even at the second frame back from the stem, and have the chine bent in ready to mark the frame before the stem. Once again it needs to be pulled in somewhat here, and after severly twisting the angle here to suit the next frame back, this one needs the angle eased off a bit. The tough bit is you need to get the front stem junction angle right before you set anything else in so you have the length to play with. If you could set the other joins in place it might be easier. Anyhow, I have it all sitting there with only the first frame notch back from the stem to do. I decided to get it all sitting there before I commit and just sit back and admire/examine/think before I glue and screw. I figure this is the heart of the boat, and makes or breaks her performance.

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By the time I have built a boat, I'll be ready to build a boat....

Glenn - You are absolutely right. The framing is the heart. Everything you do here will telegraph all the way thru and come back to bite you later.

Take your time and get it as right as you can.


I had to chuckle. We call spanners "adjustable wrenches". Love what others call various things!!
But I had not seen that done before but it makes perfect sense. I just bar clamps extended all the way thru the framing and pulled both sides together. It is important here to apply equal pressure to the two sides as you attach so that you don't torque out of the alignment your frame or stem. There is quite a bit of pressure being applied. But that is what makes our boats strong and tough in the end.

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Dave

My Riviera build - the Midnight Cry Project

Video of Midnight in Action
Blog

Few things in the world measure up to the thrill and satisfaction of boating in a boat that you built.

Dave, its called a Crescent Wrench up here by many, myself included.