Props, specifically cleaver style

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ToneDef
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Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby ToneDef » Thu Apr 08, 2010 5:07 pm

In the neverending quest for speed I would like to experiment with engine positions and props and whatnot, so I have my jackplate which will allow me to run the engine as high as I may need it to go, and I know that Arneson style surface drives are some of the 'faster' drives when compared to Alphas and Bravos, and they use cleaver style props. Is it feasible to try to run a cleaver prop on the Nissan 15HP outboard I just bought? I know they are made for the smaller engines for sure. I assume a low water pickup would be needed to run the engine at the optimum height for the cleaver prop to have maximum effect? Does anyone have any experience with these props on a small boat?

Oyster
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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Oyster » Thu Apr 08, 2010 6:27 pm

With a 15 hp engine, we are not talking about a race engine. Sure hydroplanes are quick with small engines, but most of those have been tweeked too unless we are talking about novice type hulls which are built for pleasure. With the smaller hp engines, weight and bottom design plays a role in speeds. The flatter your bottom and the higher the speeds, handling does come into play.

ToneDef
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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby ToneDef » Thu Apr 08, 2010 7:18 pm

Understandable. I should probably try it with what it's got before I go changing props :mrgreen:

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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Scott » Wed Apr 14, 2010 7:50 pm

Search Ron Hill on Ebay. Or google too.

You would probably have to modify the whole lower unit. Add a modified nose cone, LWP's, maybe some carbon reeds? Oh and some ambition too!
Thun.der.bolt
ˈTHəndərˌbōlt

A flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash of thunder.

An ignition system of early Mercury outboards that not only is a nightmare to diagnose but also improves a marine mechanics competency.

ToneDef
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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby ToneDef » Fri Apr 16, 2010 11:37 am

Scott I have emailed Ron Hill and I joined his forum as well. I have Boyesen carbon fiber reeds and a velocity stack on order :evil: :evil: I have looked into the nose cones but I can't find anything specifically for this engine, and I don't really want to drop the dough on something that won't fit just right

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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Scott » Fri Apr 16, 2010 6:42 pm

Exactly - Money.

Contact Bobs Machine Shop for lower unit questions.

Nissans do have potential. So do Yamaha's. Which brings me to show you this site if you haven't already found it.

http://www.yamaha-rebuild.com/Yamaha%20High%20Perf.htm

Above water exhaust could help out too. If you're willing to cut and drill some holes and annoy your neighbors.
Thun.der.bolt
ˈTHəndərˌbōlt

A flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash of thunder.

An ignition system of early Mercury outboards that not only is a nightmare to diagnose but also improves a marine mechanics competency.

ToneDef
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Joined: Sat Feb 20, 2010 12:49 pm
Location: Orleans, MA

Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby ToneDef » Sat Apr 17, 2010 1:36 pm

Scott wrote:Exactly - Money.

Contact Bobs Machine Shop for lower unit questions.

Nissans do have potential. So do Yamaha's. Which brings me to show you this site if you haven't already found it.

http://www.yamaha-rebuild.com/Yamaha%20High%20Perf.htm

Above water exhaust could help out too. If you're willing to cut and drill some holes and annoy your neighbors.



Ron Hill said he has props for my engine. Any pics of the holes/cutting needed for above water exhaust?

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Caber-Feidh
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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Caber-Feidh » Thu Jun 03, 2010 11:31 am

Use care when hacking holes for exhaust.

2-smokers (excluding Wankels) rely on exhaust tune for proper scavenging. Detuning the system will do far more damage than good. You really need to get a shop experienced in porting/tuning and piping your particular engine. Drilling, and grinding away will absolutely result in being the proud owner of an anchor with a recoil starter handle.

To make it work properly, you need a port map, know your target RPM range, intake volume, and velocity, venturi flow characteristics, then last, not care about the noise tickets. the builder spent a fortune making it run and be legal, random holes are not going to do it any good at all.
Some plan to stroll through Saint Peter's Gates, I plan to go through them at 150mph... backwards... in a screaming ball of flame, with a glimmer belt wrapped around my head, and a NOx button in my hand.

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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Scott » Fri Jun 11, 2010 6:11 pm

Thun.der.bolt
ˈTHəndərˌbōlt

A flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash of thunder.

An ignition system of early Mercury outboards that not only is a nightmare to diagnose but also improves a marine mechanics competency.

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v-driver
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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby v-driver » Sun Aug 15, 2010 9:13 am

Paul Miller in Memphis, TN
"Yeah, I had lunch with him last week at the Cracker Barrel out on I-40."

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Re: Props, specifically cleaver style

Postby Scott » Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:21 pm

You can get a nose cone on smaller outboards (like a sportmaster gearcase) for just shy of $500 US for prep, labour and shipping back to you. Apparently its harder than a larger gearcase. Probably because of how little of space you have to work with. Thats what it was for my 65 merc anyways.

Satin coat finish is the fastest apparently to performance enthusiasts.
Thun.der.bolt
ˈTHəndərˌbōlt

A flash of lightning with a simultaneous crash of thunder.

An ignition system of early Mercury outboards that not only is a nightmare to diagnose but also improves a marine mechanics competency.


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